Oil pump and filter piping

Lubrication System (oil feed pump and scavenger pump, reservoir, filter, and lines)
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Fast Ed 53
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Oil pump and filter piping

#1

Post by Fast Ed 53 »

Can anybody out there help me with the correct piping for a external oil filter system. My bike didnt have a filter on it when I got it. Thanks, Ed
VT

#2

Post by VT »

Our book covers it. What kind of pump, OE, S&S? You have to make up your own (return) pump cover to filter line out of 3/8 cad. brake line. I used a Ridgid? model 406 (#36097) 3/8" tubing bender. The line you need has a compound dog-leg bend, bent at an upward slight spiral. Don't make the final cut where the tube fits into the filter connector, until the line is already bent.
weezeo
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#3

Post by weezeo »

VT WHAT BOOK ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT HERE? struggling :)
VT

#4

Post by VT »

Mechanics & Owners Guide. Not a full serice manual, just a guide. It's here under books. Thanks.
panfreak
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#5

Post by panfreak »

Hey V-twin,
When bending your own oil lines, how do you stop the flaring tool from gouging the pipe where it grips in the tool? I have experimented with bending stainless lines myself, and have discovered that packing them with fine sand does wonders for keeping the bends from flattening out, but when it comes to flaring, I haven't been able to stop from damaging the pipe. Maybe I'm using the wrong style of flaring method :?:
VT

#6

Post by VT »

Use a Ridgid model 406 (#360970 3/8" tubing bender. Home Depot carries Ridgid? now. Give them the model number. As for sand? You won't need sand with the model 406. The Ridgid tool has a "keeper" for the bitter end of the tube. Yes, you still get a few stress marks near the flared end (but only on the outside surface of the tube), far less galling than a regular cheapo tube bender produces. And, we don't care if the outside gets gouged a little, just don't mark-up the inside of the flare where it contacts the nipple sealing margin of the pump's m.i.p adapter. Remember, the 2" radius cabailtiy of the Ridgid 406. Makes tube bending fun.
The o.d flaring tool I use is a cheapo clam shell type, that allows you to flare up to 1/2 tube." I think there are four different tubing sizes it works with.
Last edited by VT on Thu May 05, 2005 1:12 pm, edited 3 times in total.
krazy loop

#7

Post by krazy loop »

You didn't specify what type of external filter you have, stock or otherwise. I run an after market remote frame unit that is nornally used on firewalls of automobiles and trucks, made by Fram. I believe Hastings makes something like it as well. The unit is marked "in" and/or "out" so you get it right. You can easily determine where you want to mount it, make a bracket, and off you go since it works with the filter mounted in any direction and any plane. Run a flexible line from the oil pump return to the "in" side of the filtering unit. Then run a flexible return line from the "out" side of the unit to the return spigot of the tank. Install a new filter, also easily obtainable from any auto parts store, and couple of hose clamps, and off you go. The bonus is you now get about another quart of oil capacity. This is a very good idea for bikes with smaller capacity oil tanks. The unit costs about $20, maybe a bit more these days, and is cast aluminum. In addition you will need two brass spigots that screw into the top of the unit to attach the flexible lines. The auto supply has them as well. Locate the unit outside of the engine's warm air stream and you also just created a quasi oil cooler.
Guest

#8

Post by Guest »

Interesting thread, I am looking for this set up now also. Krazy loop, thanks for the input.

As for the sand trick in the pipe, this works well when bending pipes, but I wouldn't be putting sand in my oil lines.
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