Major oil loss

[haggis]

Description: Could the check valve or bypass valve be hanging up

Been having a lot of oil dripping from the breather...about 5 ounces overnight. Got the primary adjuster all the way in..shut off. Still dripping out.
Could the check valve or bypass valve be hanging up?
Haggis

[Jack_Hester]

Haggis -

The check valve is a good place to start looking. I believe over in the WL thread I suggested that the check valve ball be removed and inspected for a groove. This can happen over time. The ball rotates for some reason, and now the groove becomes a passage for oil to bleed down. Inspect the check valve spring, as it has a book spec length. If it is too far out, replace it and the ball. If neither show signs of problems, the seat may need lapping. Pull the pump off to do this, as you don't want the lapping compound in the oil.

Jack

[Cotten]

Burnishing is a better seat repair, and it does not require removal of the pump.
A burnisher is a simple ball on the end of a screw that is piloted by the pumpcap threads. By torquing it upon the seat, it 'smears' it to conformity without removing metal.
These tools hopefully will soon be available from http://www.resurrectioncycle.com/
Otherwise, anyone with a lathe and the ability to silversolder can easily make one.

[Jack_Hester]

Haggis -

Cotton is right about the the burnishing of the seat. I haven't been in touch with Resurrection Cycle about the tool, as I had forgotten his mentioning making the tools available. I need to check his site. Thanks for the reminder, Cotton.

Jack

[Jonderson]

As of a month or so ago Resurrection had not made any of these for "production".
Easy enough with Cotten's directions/image to make one up though. I did it, so if you are looking for independent verification that this is the easiest/cheapest/most efficient way to go, you are getting it right now.

Thanks again Cotten!

Post by Jonderson on Jun 15, 2004, 5:56pm

BTW, 5 ounces overnight?? Holy Crap!

[haggis]

Thanks for all the input guys, will be tackling the pump in about an hour, the things less than 2 years old , so maybe theres a bit of grit hanging the ball up, we'll soon see, Anyway, if the seat needs burnishing , I know what to do ( thanks Cotten ). Time to go drain My Crankcase!! >, Thanks Guys, Haggis

[57JOHND]

Haggis,
New here but thought would post this just to offer what has been tried on a couple of occasions with relative success. As you said the pump is new so the likelyhood of a bad seat/ball is somewhat remote. As far as a piece of trash in the seat I have used the eraser of a mechanical pencil twisted a couple of times to pick up the crud/polish the seat. NOT the abrasive pink ones from a #2 pencil but the soft type (usually white) typically used for drafting pencils. Others have said to try a q-tip but I dont like the possibilty of leaving one of the little "threads" off of it in the seat. By the timestamp of your post I probably missed you before you started but hopefully you will see this before it gets too far apart.

Thanks

JohnD

[Jack_Hester]

57JOHND

Another good idea. I have one of those in my shop, to hand-polish small metal parts. Cleans very well, and will not scar. Never thought about it for cleaning a seat.

Jack

[57JOHND]

Thanks Jack,
Another slightly more "invasive" procedure is to take a Evo (did I spelt that right?) pushrod and cut it in half. Take the ball end and with a dremel/stone put a VERY shallow spiral from the center/tip of the ball around towards the tube in a pattern that resembles a "Candy Cane" type stripe. 1 "groove" is adequate. Allegedly the balls are very close in size and you can take it set it in the seat, give it a couple of light (full 360) twists, clean with the eraser, and in essence have a fresh seat for the ball. Never tried it but with some checking seems that in principle should work. Kinda Prehistoric. Specially on a critical componet but.....sometimes this stuff works.

JohnD

[haggis]

Well i'm happy..........looks like it was a little bit of crap holding up the check ball. Seat looks good, spring's ok , ball looks fine. Just refiled with 50 weight and so far no oozing. Thanks for the help guys ;D
57JOHND, "hear no evo, see no evo, speak no evo,..ride no evo"....welcome aboard my friend! Haggis

[sleeper]

57JohnD, there are plenty of those pushrods already cut in half. As that's how to change a cam w/out taking the top-off. On those models. Non-adjustable push-rods. This is what HD teaches, at the HD Stealerships. Pair of bolt cutters & Clip, x4 & you're
ready to pull the "cone" off. "No Shit" !!!!!
I at least roll the motor over till the lifters are on the cam heel, then wrap a rag around the lifter & bolt -cut.
Amazing that they use this 'short-cut' yet the bill never is 'short' or light... :

[57JOHND]

Haggis- Thanks for the Welcome. Glad it worked out well for you. I cannot accurately describe to you the reservation I had on using the "e" word (lower case not an error) Sincere apologies as no offense was intended.
Billy- I have never heard of such a thing- the closesest thing I know about that valvetrain is something to the effect that they are each different????What in the world for?
Anywhooo--- sorry for the delay as I was out of town on work most the week.

57JOHND