(VT 12-1947) No way someone could walk up to you at the gas pump and know anything but "antique". Their eyes won't pick up on a "modern flaw" with this pump. It's not a "dowel-pin" exact duplicate. Body parts are not interchangable with OE.
Let's pull it apart and see what's inside. Any method available to check the Rockwell hardness inside the shaft body bore?
1941-1949 Oil Pump (Rep.)
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1941-1949 Oil Pump (Rep.)
Last edited by Anonymous on Wed Feb 02, 2005 7:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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There are reports that the needle won't shut off the oil supply to the primary chain. It seems like a needle shape problem, since the pump has no "seat" tapered or otherwise inside the body, like the brass seat of an S&S.
Maybe a straight-sided round shanked needle should be used. The #1 hole is round. The needle is tapered. The taper is trying to stop the flow of oil coming from a round passage. A round shank may reduce the flow, but 10-30 p.s.i will find it's way past the shank.
Maybe a straight-sided round shanked needle should be used. The #1 hole is round. The needle is tapered. The taper is trying to stop the flow of oil coming from a round passage. A round shank may reduce the flow, but 10-30 p.s.i will find it's way past the shank.
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Last edited by Anonymous on Wed Feb 02, 2005 8:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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We're going to be looking at how the needle fits into the body. The needle has a flat tip. The flat tip bottoms-out into a smaller flat-bottomed spot at the bottom of the needle shaft. There is no interference fit of the (Northern) tip, when it's seated into the (Southern) spot. The flat tip-end was not meant to reduce any oil flow at all. The taper was given the job, and oil goes right past it, East to West.
#1 is the entrance passage where oil has traveled down from the trench above; comes into the pump, and starts heading down to #2, where it exits the pump and into the breather passage of the crankcase.
#1 is the entrance passage where oil has traveled down from the trench above; comes into the pump, and starts heading down to #2, where it exits the pump and into the breather passage of the crankcase.
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Last edited by Anonymous on Mon Feb 07, 2005 8:44 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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This "Triangle H" is also embossed on the freeze plug of the fork lock kit. Same people that make the fork lock, make the pump. Pump ships with the Colony bolt kit, gasket and pump shaft snap ring (used after the shaft exits the back-side of the oil pump drive gear in the motor).
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Warts
Whether the pump chain-oiler supply can be controlled or not, doesn't effect building belt drive Replica's at all, since there will no longer be any oil flow to the primary chain.
The torque specs for the (12-1947) replica pump are that "nuts (and lockwashers) are to be drawn down evenly to approximately 50 in. lbs., but no more than 60 in. lbs of torque". Inch lbs.,.... not Foot lbs. In short, "over-tightening will squeeze gasket material out of place and will eliminate pump gear side clearance, and may sieze and damage pump parts".
The torque specs for the (12-1947) replica pump are that "nuts (and lockwashers) are to be drawn down evenly to approximately 50 in. lbs., but no more than 60 in. lbs of torque". Inch lbs.,.... not Foot lbs. In short, "over-tightening will squeeze gasket material out of place and will eliminate pump gear side clearance, and may sieze and damage pump parts".