oil pump question

Lubrication System (oil feed pump and scavenger pump, reservoir, filter, and lines)
Bsimmons1
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Re: oil pump question

#16

Post by Bsimmons1 »

ok so this is the spot in the pic that i want to drill the hole? sorry just wanna double check i dont wanna fuck it up you know
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Re: oil pump question

#17

Post by RUBONE »

That is the correct spot, at that welch plug. That is where the factory placed the breather outlet from '65 up. Notice that it is covering a drilling into the case connected to a passage in the rear of the case. through '64 that passage went all the way to the left case and exited into the primary. On your '65 left case the passage does not exist, just a drilling for the case bolt, so there is no exit for the breather. When the engine is running, the pistons create a negative pressure on their way up. On the way down they create a positive pressure (think compression) within the cases. That pressure tries to force air out at every joint. That air is also totally laden with oil mist which is carried along with it making leaks at every joint. The crankcase breather does exactly as its name implies, it breathes with the rise and fall of the engine and keeps the pressure in the case stabilized. The breather is timed to the engine to let the air out at the optimum time to release the pressure under the pistons and also carry the accumulated oil in the cases into the timing side and the return oil pump without allowing outside air to be drawn in.
So, on to the fix. If the plug is removed there is a very large hole to try and adapt to the need at hand. The exit only need to be about a 5/16-3/8" line. On later Shovels it is drilled into the passage between the oil pump and case sidewall. As was stated, the only good way to do it is with the engine out of the frame. This is a picture of a '65 breather tube.
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Bsimmons1
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Re: oil pump question

#18

Post by Bsimmons1 »

ok awesome thats you for all the info asnd the help i appreciate it
Bsimmons1
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Re: oil pump question

#19

Post by Bsimmons1 »

so i got the hole drilled and tapped for the crank breather thanks for the help on that. one more issue im still having is the amount of oil coming from it now when the bike is running. could my oil pump be going bad? i checked while the bike was running and its returning back to the tank but im just not sure about the oil coming from the breather
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Re: oil pump question

#20

Post by 1962FLH »

It may have built up oil in lower end without a proper case vent. its been my experience when you have oil coming out of case vent the check ball in oil pump let some get by and into lower end. you will need to let it run for a wile to expel the excess oil. PS keep an eye on oil tank level.
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Re: oil pump question

#21

Post by drinner-okc »

there is a passageway in the right case from the oil pump. That is where the oil for the primary chain comes from in tin primary bikes. you can LIGHTLY seat the adjuster screw, if some oil still seeps past you can pull the pump and install a set screw in the passageway.
Bsimmons1
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Re: oil pump question

#22

Post by Bsimmons1 »

well the bikes been running awesome been putting a lot of miles on it but im still having oil leaking from the vent issues. ive been reading a bunch of post and to me it seems as though the check ball is letting oil by thats the only issue i can think of. is there a way i can clean the the area where the ball sits. i put a new ball and spring in it a while back by the way.
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Re: oil pump question

#23

Post by FL54 »

Check the knowledge base as there is quite a bit of information on dressing the seat. Lots of differing opinions on how to address it. There is a seat dressing tool that screws into the female threaded hole above the seat. Much like a similar tool for dressing faucet seats back in the day. I saw one once but couldn't tell you where to find one.
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Re: oil pump question

#24

Post by Panacea »

could you just run the new vent to the top of the oil tank?
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Re: oil pump question

#25

Post by Bsimmons1 »

ok ive been looking but havent had any luck. and i wouldnt be able to run it back to the tank only have 3 spots on the oil tank and there being used
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Re: oil pump question

#26

Post by RUBONE »

DO NOT run the crankcase breather to the oil tank. It needs to go to the atmosphere. It pulses a bit both directions, but primarily out due to the breather gear timing. It will pressurize the oil tank and cause lots of odd issues. the vent line to the oil tank which exists is to equalize the oil tank pressure with the crankcase pressure and allow gravity feed. Pressure feed isn't a good thing.
Bsimmons1
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Re: oil pump question

#27

Post by Bsimmons1 »

haha thanks yeah i would never do that
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Re: oil pump question

#28

Post by hogboy52 »

I might add, in early models the breather served as an air pump to blow a burst of air/oil onto the drive chain. With the sealed case models, the breather timing was advanced (the timing mark was moved back) to eliminate the pulsing. Sportsters and most every other MC just used a one-way valve to release any blow-by pressure.
With a belt drive I had no need of an oiler so I advanced the breather two teeth. I also added a one-way valve to the end of the breather tube. I used an in-line valve that goes to an automobile brake booster tank. This way no air is drawn into the engine and it stays at less than air pressure. No oil oozing from push-rod seals.
There is also an O-ring placed between the ball and seat in the oil pump and a bit of clear line from the breather to the ground. With this combination, I have not seen any oil in the line or on the floor.
..
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Re: oil pump question

#29

Post by 58flh »

Bsimmons-----As Rubone stated /that welchplug needs to come out!//Dont just drill it & tap a hole for a metal tube.Pull the welchplug out/There are Fittings that are made from brass & steel to.I would prefer the Brass fitting with NPT-thread if you plan on tapping it//But The better way is ,After the plug is out--Clean the hole in case of any crud---Go to your hardware store-(A REAL ONE THAT STOCKS HTF parts).By me theres a place called -(KOENIGS).Anyway you will be able to find a proper size plug thats ss,& its hollow with a nipple fitting on the other end.It will drive in as a welch-plug would that you pulled out!.Then proceed as Rubone said & Run a vent line as the MOCO did.Use a proper factory type Pinch clamp,& no more worries!.---Respectfully---Richie
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