oil pressure fitting

[Tigerman67]

I have a 51 FL panhead, but its a bit of a Frankenstein bike, so potentially could find any combination of parts.

I was going to put the idiot oil pressure light sensor back on the bike, and at the same time T it so I could check to see what pressure the Repro oil sensor turns the light off. My long term plan was to remove the T and just go with the light as long as I knew how it acted when it was warm.

I used the loose pressure sensor to buy the correct brass fittings to make the T, but they don't have the same thread as the oil pump. I had to use the adapter that was on there from gauge that is currently on there. That adapter had a set of straight looking threads, a very distinct gap, and then a flat surface which I assume was the sealing surface since it had a copper washer on it. I reinstalled the adapter and snugged it without getting carried away. But wasn't paying attention when I was playing with the thread tape on the other fittings above it, and through proxy cranked down on the adapter. So now the adapter, doesn't quite tighten up, or come off. I assume I stripped the top threads off the adapter, and its just sort of spinning in that hole with the bottom threads keeping it somewhat tight in the process.

So first question is, how screwed am I. It appears to not be leaking at the moment, but I assume that will eventually change.

Question #2, as far as getting it out, I assume will try to tighten something into that adapter so that I can apply some upward leverage while trying to unscrew it and hopefully it will come out, but I am not real confident. Any suggestions on how to get it out?

Question #3, if I can get it out, does anyone have the part number or colony part # for this adapter? Or is it a common adapter you can find in the brass fitting section of the hardware store. Of course, I searched and got tons of hits, but my search terms must be bad, since i am getting hits for just about everything but the piece I am looking for.

PS when I realized my mistake, I bagged the T connector, and just went with the pressure sensor to see if it was going to leak. Appears okay for now. Also put a test light on the sensor when hot while checking for the leak and based on how high I have to rev the motor to get the 'light' turn off, my after market sensor requires more pressure than it should and will probably be annoying if I hook it up to the dash.

Thanks,
Steve

[1951 adam]

Steve that's not a pipe thread, so just the washer creates the seal. I would probably remove the pump and repair it on the bench. Sounds like the threads will need repair. Unfortunately all the aftermarket switches are off a lot! Search the NB here. They will light at hot idle, and should go off at road speed, or get dim. The only alternative is finding a good OE switch or using the colony adaptor and running a low poundage switch from napa . As long as the switch shows pressure when running , and on start up , I'm good with that, but that's my opinion , I know it's working. Good luck
Adam

[Tigerman67]

So has anyone had good luck using some sort of thread insert on these.

Weren't the later pumps (or maybe it was earlier) made without the adapter and pipethreaded? If so, if I am going to have to fix it with an insert, would it make sense to change the pattern at the same time if pipethread is more common?

Also, as soon as I posted this, I determined I should have said nipple, rather than adapter, and using the right term the part number pops right up as OEM 26569-39 Colony 2623-1 for the 'adapter' I was looking for.

If the light was going to simply come on at the stop light I would be okay with the current switch as flickering on at a stoplight I can live with if I know I am getting good circulation, but I have to build some serious revs to get this one to go off. I might have to look into the napa ones. Is there a thread on here where someone found a good NAPA part number. Back in the old days finding a parts guy who was willing to be creative wasn't that hard. These days if you can't come up with a part number or example vehicle for the computer, most of them are lost.

[1951 adam]

The colony adaptor adaptes to pipe thread, not a good idea to modify threads , napa has a catalogue with pressure gauges .
If your worried about your pressure , install a pro test gauge like snap on, and test pressure hot. Unfortunately you won't find a "replica" gauge that's correct . Hopefully someone will start making them to spec.... I'd buy one.
Adam

[1951 adam]

I forgot to add the change in the pump came in 68 when the switch threaded directly into body.
Hope that helps
Adam

[58flh]

Tigerman!---Adam sums it all up!--About the light & Sender,,,They are all calibrated to hi!---Also remember as long as FLOW is going back to the tank ITS PERFECT!//You will get an accurate reading with a snap-on gage & dont be surprised if it shows 1-to 3lbs.!-(This is NORMAL).I use my light at start-up olny!--When I prime-kick her ,it goes off!-(DONE).It always comes on at idle-(950rpm)-when at operating temp.It goes off with a goose of the throttle!--(All is FINE).IF the light comes on when your MOVING!--Then you know the PINION BUSHING-SPUN or your TANK is EMPTY!.Thats the olny PURPOSE of the IDIOT-LIGHT!.IM sure you PROBABLY KNOW THIS & HEARD it all before!--Im simply stating it for any NEW owners out there that are not FAMILIAR with a PAN!.Also NEW pump gaskets are thick!--Your better off using the old COMPRESSED one if its in 1-piece.This lowers press.-Alot by a builders standard.Its hard finding THIN pump gaskets new!.I have already put pumps on with a new gasket & Tourque to specs. & leave it on for awhile so some Compresion of the matieral takes place Before you actually ready to fire-up a new motor or whatever.---Respectfully-----RICHIE

[UPSROD]

The pipe thread in the pump body started in early 1958.

[Tigerman67]

Looking through some of the other posts, I see a couple people mention time-serts for thread repair. Looks like a better system than heli-coil, but to buy a simple set to do the repair myself looks pricy. Does anyone know what size that is in the oil pump that I will have to repair? Is it a simple machine thread since its not pipe?

Thanks for everyone making sure I understood the low oil pressure situation, I had read it before, but it never hurts to reinforce. I know I have okay oil flow, I know that the cheap aftermarket gauge doesn't really read anything at idle, which is more of a precision problem with the gauge than a problem with the bike. I was hoping that switching to idiot light would give me more stock behavior of having oil light flickering or on at idle at temp, and then off as soon as the RPM's come up, but the new repro senders must be at least 5psi or more based on how many revs it takes to turn it off. Since the gauge is no where I can see it when riding, I would prefer a light to let me know that I just blew an oil line or something and to shut it down.

I'll see if napa can come up with a sensor in the 1-2lb range, if not I might look at a better gauge as people have mentioned.

Thanks,
Steve

[1951 adam]

The size is 3/8 24 I believe . I don't like time serts , they alter the aperamce of the part. I'm not sure how you would drill that for an insert, not very deep, anyone do one?
Adam

[Larry]

[attachment=0]pressure 2.jpg[/attachment]A 3/16 compression to 1/8 female pipe fitting works just fine. The nut and ferrule aren't used. I've repaired that thread with a helicoil. That also works fine.