remote oil filter leaking

Lubrication System (oil feed pump and scavenger pump, reservoir, filter, and lines)
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longhorn
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remote oil filter leaking

#1

Post by longhorn »

A few weeks back, I picked up a remote oil filter system for my pan.
Finally got her installed, buzzed up the road, and back, the bike left an oil trail.
Atleast I know the oil is going to, and through the filter.
All the joint's look good, but she's leaking around the top.
I ordered a new gasket for the top, some synthetic material, I had it in before the ride. Definitely not working the way I was hoping for!
I'm wondering if cork would be better?
What do you guy's do to seal up your oil filter's?
Thanks
Jim
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Re: remote oil filter leaking

#2

Post by 1950Panhead »

but she's leaking around the top.
If it's leaking from the mount stud replace the copper washer inside.
If it's leaking from the fittings replace the rubber seal on the lines.
If it's leaking from the canister replace the top gasket.
There is also a gasket inside that causes the oil to go through the filter (instead of around it).
Jerry
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Re: remote oil filter leaking

#3

Post by rozemab »

longhorn,

I gave up on my canister type of filter because of the leaks. Instead I installed a modern spin on filter using the exact same mounting arm. Unless you're an expect on Pans, the filter looks factory and does not stick out like a sore thumb.

Spinning the filter on and off sure beats the goopy mess of a canister.
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Re: remote oil filter leaking

#4

Post by Cotten »

Longhorn!

Don't give up!

Inspect first to see if all the seals are there, and serviceable.
The crushwasher between the mount stud and the top casting is the pretty much the same as brake banjo washers, although I prefer something more forgiveing.

Inspect also as to the condition of the top of the "cup".
After beating it reasonably true if necessary, you should then grind it as flat as possible.

Flatty Linkert bowl gaskets fit nicely, (although that seems to mean only Ks!)

Most folks have more problems at the bottom than the top.....


...Cotten
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Re: remote oil filter leaking

#5

Post by t-jacobs »

When I first put my 64 together I bought a repop filter housing and had the same problems. I took it off and found a nice OEM housing and the leaks stopped. I added the repop housing to the box of other worthless repop parts I have. Live and learn.
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Re: remote oil filter leaking

#6

Post by Hog54 »

t-jacobs wrote:When I first put my 64 together I bought a repop filter housing and had the same problems. I took it off and found a nice OEM housing and the leaks stopped. I added the repop housing to the box of other worthless repop parts I have. Live and learn.

Funny my box is the other way around,I have it full of oem parts and the rebop are on the bike.:)

You guys must just have bad luck,besides a couple coils,I havent put a rebop part on any bike that didnt work like it should.
longhorn
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Re: remote oil filter leaking

#7

Post by longhorn »

Maybe I'm assembling the whole system wrong.
From the bottom up, mine has:crown nut, 2 regular nut's, a "stainless" flat washer, the canister, and at the top, a new not-cork gasket.
She's leaking from the top, cylinder side.
There was silicone on the bottom, when I got it on the bench.
The canister rim is pretty darn nice, same with the inside of the top housing.
I took a socket, and poounded the inside of the canister bottom flat again, so that's pretty nice.
Should there be one nut on the inside of the canister, to act like a stop nut?
What about the crushable washer Cotten mentioned, where did that go?
Should I be wrenching the whole thing down pretty good?
I have a manual, but sometime's you just have to smack me up side the head, before I can see it.
I ordered the 3 washers it showed, in the breakdown, but it doesn't tell you what each one is, and where it goes.
Somebody make me see the light?
I think it add's alot of "cool" to my bike, I want to keep it on there, but it will have to work.
This pan was almost oil tight, I want it the same way now!
Thanks again
Jim
longhorn
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Re: remote oil filter leaking

#8

Post by longhorn »

Found a diagram in a Clymer panhead manual, now I'm kind of back on track.
When I start at the bottom with their diagram, I have the acorn nut, the fibre washer, and the canister, from there, we have a problem.
I have a filter cartridge in mine, it has a rubber gasket on both end's. One gasket more radiused than the other. I'm thinking the tapered/radiused side up?
I do not have a retainer with holes drilled in it. Is this part neccesary with the cartridge?
I do have a fibre washer about 1 1/4"s in od, 1 1/8"s id, don't have a clue where it would go.
I also have the canister gasket.
What do the double nut's do, are they just a positive stop for the acorn nut?
Would you adjust the location of the nut's, by running the canister tight to the housing with no gasket. Then put the gasket in, and tighten with the acorn nut?
When I have the canister in place on the housing, and the double nut's, where I described, the long stud is about 3/8th"s too long for the crown nut, to bottom out.
I'm thinking it wasn't too long, from the factory, so before I get the grinder warmed up, I better work on a different bike.LOL
Thanks again
Jim
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Re: remote oil filter leaking

#9

Post by TimmyV »

Finally got my external oil filter to quit leaking...Thanks Robbie !
Been trying to get the external oil filter cannister on my '61 Pan to quit leaking since the day I brought her home a few years ago. Tried all kinds of washers with rubber gaskets, o-rings, etc at the bottom of the thing, all to no avail. Then the other day I was reading a thread where someone else was having the same problem. Robbie ( Rubone) chimed in & gave the secret to a leak free cannister. (On break at work right now & don't have the time to find the thread)
Anyways, when I read Robbie' s solution it was as if a light bulb went off in my head, for it is really quite simple once you know the trick.

1. Make certain bottom of cannister is flat. Most will be concave from years of use. If not flat, use a hammer & round stock or anything else that will fit in the cannister to get the bottom flat.

2. Inside on the threaded rod there is a nut that holds the filter in place against the upper portion of the assembly. Add one more nut on the threaded rod in the proper position so that the nut on the bottom exterior of cannister can have a solid surface to press the cannister up against.

I did as explained then added my usual steel washer w / rubber washer attached before installing the exterior nut. Very happy to report that I took my old girl out for about an hour last night & there were no leaks from my oil filter assembly !
Thanks again Robbie ...a big ol' slice of raison pie to ya !!

I do not any drawings to refer to, so maybe this "extra" nut was supposed to be in there all along, I don't know.
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Re: remote oil filter leaking

#10

Post by tschukojr »

i had some leaks on mine recently , tried a lot of stuff-----then used the 2 nuts on the bottom, one inside for the outside to push against, and one outside, AND at lowe's i bought what they called--BONDED WASHERS-- in the nut and bolt aisle, they are slightly concaved with a rubber washer bonded to them, i used one inside, and one outside on the bottom, on the top i used one on the outside-- i was surprised, it worked wonderfull, not leaks at all,----------so currently there are no brass or copper washers at all----------------that might help , unless its leaking from around the cup------------tony
longhorn
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Re: remote oil filter leaking

#11

Post by longhorn »

Here's a follow up on my oil filter problem.
I'm sure you guy's thought what is wrong with this guy, the cartridge goes in the canister, washer, and crown nut go on, hey your in business. :shock:
After checking out what a canister should look like, on the computer, I notice my canister was indented on the end, not pointy.
After doing a little more searching, I found out what the correct cartridge look's like, now I can see the problem.
The guy had a cartridge in there, from who the heII know's what. I had never seen one before.
So what he had done to make the cartridge fit, was to peen in the pointy end of the canister.
The cartridge still didn't fit, I'm sure that's why I got a "buy" on it.
This is why my crown nut would not hit the bottom of the canister, the center stud was too "long".
I pounded the canister pointy again, and by golly the crown nut will lock the washer against the canister, and against the double nut's inside. 8)
Problem solved.
My only excuse, is that my 65 has a shovelhead style oil tank.
Moral of the story. Don't pound up a nice original Harley part to save $2! :lol:
Thanks
Jim
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