push rods

[Skip]

hey guys...just replaced my push rods last night and found something very interesting to me...the long rod which goes into front exhaust was placed in the rear exhaust and ANOTHER long front exhaust rod was located in the front intake...now I had not messed with or adjusted them for 15 years...didn't need to...just replaced becaused I got a good deal on new ones...my question is should there be a noticable difference in the starting and preformance???I kept up with fucking EVOS all last season with NO problem...back firing should be gone??starting on first kick instead of third??what if any problems would this have caused? Thanks DB.

[panhead]

Is there a difference in lenght? Not according to the spare parts book or Bruce Palmer. Or is there?

[Skip]

the front exhaust is supposed to be about 1/8 inch longer...don't know why, I guess the distance maybe???just got back from a partial test ride...think the rear intake is not working...spitting and blowing oil/gas from carb...I guess I need to readjust the rear rods??? any sugguestions?

DB

[Skip]

sorry forgot to log in before replied...

[panhead]

According to Bruce Palmer the overall push rod length is 9-1/4" (1953 - 1956), 8-13/16" (1957 - 1960) and also 8-13/16" for 1961 - 1965.

[Skip]

sorry I'm running a 48 pan with solid lifters...non-adjustable push rods...look at tech issues on this site Re: lifters about 1/2 way down the page..."Note: front exhaust push rod in longer than the rest"...going to let cool down couple of hours and recheck all rods...only thing I know to do...making a sucking noise when trying to start...Thanks DB

[Cotten]

OEM rods were all the same, but modern replacements are of more appropriate different lengths.

A fully extended adjustor flexes, among other nasty attributes. The geometry of the motor makes the front exhaust much longer that the others, and since it is also the hottest; a weak spot. That makes the longer rod desireable.

....Cotten

[Skip]

check this out...re-adjusted the rods...cranked over by hand 2 or 3 times and they were sloppy again...re-adjusted...turned over...sloppy...this went on for 1 hour...finally left them at a free spin...normal?...thanks..DB

[Cotten]

Perhaps you have some serious slop in your cam bushings.

Adjust in an opposite/alternating pattern. (Such as FI,RI,FX,RX, etc.)

....Cotten

[Skip]

if there is cam bushing slop will you still be able to adjust rods?...I believe I do adjust as you described...only I do exhaust first...how do you tell if bushings bad without removing cam cover?...how about idler gear in there...if slop there would you have charging issues? Thanks for input, it is really appreciated...DB

[Skip]

and as long as I have your ear...why all of a sudden when I changed rods???no problems before...running great...just a little pop every now and then and I kind od liked that. thsnks again...DB

[mbskeam]

are your pushrods Alum. or steel?
I have alum. in mine and I set them till it takes a bit of pressure to spin. not by useing the side of the finger, this will be to loose. and the engine must be stone cold to do it this way, or they will be set to tight and bike will not start....ask me how I know this.
are your lock nuts backing off? these are cheap to get.
last summer one on the RI kept backing off, and put a new on an it stays put now.
when I adust it is about every 1000 miles and its the exshaust that I set
(2 to 1 over the intakes)
have a new set of collony P rods to put in when I put in bigger pinion gear, as the backlash is a bit to much. in this set, one is longer for the FE

mbskeam

[Skip]

that is just what I put in was the colony set...apparently replaced a colony set also...I adjusted to the spin no shake method with them a little tighter...had them as tight as you suggested but thought too tight...will try to readjust to that spec today...THANKS DB

[Cotten]

I adjust aluminum rods so tight that you must wipe the oil off to be able to turn them.
Once the motor is warm, they are still loose as a goose. Steel would seem preferable.

Worn bushings certainly don't allow for an exact adjustment, but it should run. And I don't think the idler is any more an issue than the breather or pinion gears... .. !

...Cotten

[Skip]

thanks guys...my best friend and personal wrench ( the one I used to bother with these inane questions) is no longer with us...so you guys are it now...Mr. Cotten I will adjust tighter today...thanks again...DB