Hydraulic Lifters

[Swan]

I recently fitted a piston kit into my 60 panhead and have adjusted the pushrods several times, it runs quiet for about 10 minutes then starts to make a lot of tappet noise and even puff a bit of smoke from the front cylinder...which is why I replaced the pistons in the first place!...is this cause the lifters aren't pumping up or the adjustment is not holding? I cleaned out the lifters and soaked them in fresh oil and tested them..they spring back OK ... any comments appreciated.

Shane

[john HD]

are the rollers installed correctly? the holes should line up with the lifter bases.

short of that, you might try running it temporarily without the screen and see if it improves.

john

[Cotten]

Swan!

Sorry I must ask,
but you are not by any chance running an evil Andrews A-grind, are you?

....Cotten

[steinauge]

I am a bit confused,you fitted new pistons due to tappet noise? Anyhow if no Andrews A then how are your rocker arm to block clearances? How about tappet to block clearance? both can certainly cause your noise complaint.

[RichardS]

Swan,
When you say that your lifters "spring-back".....how are you testing these (?).

When I was at the factory school years ago.....they taught us to:
1: Disassemble, clean, and inspect each unit separately/do not mix parts with other units.
2: Insprction for "spring-back" was with the unit dry......hold down for six-seconds and should spring-back but not collapse.

Adjustment was with unit dry.......turned all the way down (tappet-roller on base-circle of cam/lowest-point) and then adjusted back up 1 1/2-turns up from bottom.....then lock-nuts tightened.
Also, insure that your lifter-blocks are receiving un-restricted oil-flow.

To know if you are having other challanges with your Pan-engine......we would need to know more in "detail" as to what you have......information on clyinders/heads/tappets and blocks, oil-pump and oil-flow, etc.. Basic information from your last rebuild to insure that proper-parts are in your engine. The more detailed information that is given here will allow a better diagnosis of owner's current-challange(s).
Last.......as with many later model Shovelhead engines......the PanHead will accept most "up-dates" as were used in later Shovelhead engines for better fitment, oil-flow, and engine-life. Remember, the last Shovelhead-engines were used as "test-beds" during the developement of the Evo-engine.

Regards, RichardS in MI.
US Army, Retired.

[Swan]

Sorry if I confused anyone..

a) I fitted a new piston kit because the engine was burning a bit of blow by oil in front cylinder.

b) I have fitted the pushrods back but the adjustment seems to go out after a short running time, I'm thinking I am not taking enough slack out of the pushrod before I do the 4 screw turn adjustment...the rods are aluminium and it's a stock (as far as I know) 1960 engine. Like I said I have cleaned out the lifters and soaked them in fresh oil.

One other question I have is ...
Do the lifters have any spring play once they are pumped up?

I am taking up the slack in the pushrod but not any further once it meets the lifter so there is still a bit of play there but under the lifter spring tension.

cheers

[Bosheff]

Cam follower rollers?....bosheff

[George Greer]

Swan!

Sorry I must ask,
but you are not by any chance running an evil Andrews A-grind, are you?

....Cotten

Ok, just gotta know.......
A-grind Andrews, and others are on ebay...
what is the issue with the A grind?

What is a popular cam to run in panhead engines?

I know that a range of opinions will show up, as this a general question concerning cams.

George

[Cotten]

George!

Contrary to Andrew's claims,
The profile of the A grind is prone to failing to keep hydraulics filled at idle speeds in a warm Pan motor with a stock pump.
The worst case scenario is cracking the right case at the cam bushing/bearing.

The most popular cam is the OEM "Victory" FLH cam, of course, although many fine brands and grinds have come and gone over the years.

....Cotten

[George Greer]

Cotten.

Thanks, I will avoid the "A" grind.

As you may know, I will be the newest caretaker of a 1958 FL engine. And once it arrives home, I will be looking into the condition of the entire engine.

I am not into building a hotrod, rather close to stock, relibility, dependable, longivity is what I aim for.

I will be learning, and asking questions, and I hope that this will be a good engine for my retirement.

George

PS.. the WL/KH build will soon be back on track, that is going to be my little hot-rod.

George

[indianut]

If you want a Reliable Panhead that lasts a long time you need to start with one that as few people as possible have touched a wrench to. Then use STOCK HARLEY DAVIDSON PARTS, set up like the HD Book says to set them up.

[George Greer]

Indannut....

Point well taken, but since 1958, I think that odds are tha over the years, several mechanics have wrenched on it.

What I intend to do, is take it and make it as close as I am able to, back to stock.

The VIN is perfect, nothing broken, and matching belly numbers.

I know that I will be back with numerous questions over time.

Take care.

George

[Swan]

I reckon I have it solved ... it was ok when cold on start up but tappet noise started when it warmed up and would go quiet intermitently, so I removed the tappet screen filter in the top of the cam cover and cleaned it (there was a lot of crap in it) soaked it all in fresh oil and replaced it, the tappet noise hasn't come back to haunt me ... well not yet anyways.
thanks for all the advice

I was even begining to consider using Pro-ma Performance Products - MBL8 Oil additive, as this is claimed to reduce tappet noise too.