Cylinder base leak

[108]

Well I got my '48 FL top-end back together and the cylinder base gaskets were seeping on all four sides after running for only about five minutes.There was no leak here before. I used a James gasket set with the silicone printed metal gaskets . I tightened them some more cold ( way past specs.) and it seeps less now but it's not stopped. Anybody been here? should I wait awhile or what ? thanks for any info.

[Jack_Hester]

Hate to tell you, but they won't stop once they start. Time to pull the top end install new gaskets.

Jack

[mbskeam]

hello,
I feel what your going thru.
those f**king things again. JAMES should pull those from the market as they they SUCK! and leak.
call up there tech line and let them know, if they here from a lot of people that they leak.They might fix them. or not. At least you can let them have it with both barrells, it made me feel better.

look at this also: base gasket alert!!

mbskeam.

[sleeper]

108-

Be careful over-torquing, the studs are only in cast aluminum. Don't want to rip one out.

I had a Pan 'in' for base gaskets, that the owner put in himself & they leaked. His is a 65 & the james gaskets he got from v-taiwan were in-correctly packaged. So It wasn't a James Gasket issue, more of V-taiwan throwing older Pan gaskets in a bag labeled for 63/5 Pan.
I put in the correct ones from James & has been dry since. Over-torquing can also lead to worse leaks as sometimes it smashes the gaskets & squeezes an opening for more oil to exit.
If it's right, correct torque will do the rest.

[mbskeam]

hello,

Billy...
you are talking about paper gaskets aren't you?

the ones that I got brand new in package where the metal ones, they leaked. So I have James paper style ones in now, and no problems. Yes I guess ripping a stud out would make for a very unhappy moment, that sick feeling in the pit of the gut.


mbskeam

[sleeper]

Mbskeam-

Sorry, I should have been more specific. I removed James (wrong year48/62) metal base gaskets.
I replaced them w/James paper ones, (correct year 63/5)
She is still dry & all is well.

[Rammy]

I also just put a set of the metal James gaskets in , seams like they would work good but, i found that the silicone beed is not big or thick enough. Any of the smallest imperfections in the two mating surfaces and you have a >:( leak like I did .
I was able to pull the tanks, exh, pushrods, undo intake, then take the base nuts off, then you can raise the cyl. about 3/8in. block it , clean well all sufaces with solvent and very carfully put a very small bead of silicone around the edges , tighten base nuts and let dry at lest over night... This stopped my leak.
Sucks to have to pull the engine all out again just to fix this so it`s worth a try

[krazyloop]

HD still sells pan/shovel base gaskets which fit right and work fine. For leakers you most likely need to machine back to true your case/bottom cylinder surfaces. Short of that a small blast of Hi-Tack in the aerosol can works wonders.

[108]

Thanks everyone for your input on my cylinder base gasket leak. I was considering lifting the jugs to add sealer and after Rammy's encouragement I did. I used aluminum colored G.M. RTV adhesive/ sealer. The temp got into the 60's here Sunday and after an hour ride its perfect. One thing I should have seen before was the "seal?" bead on the bottom of the James gasket actualy went off the edge of the crankcase where it curved around the rear cylinder oil passage !