Cylinder removal: the best/safest/easiest way to get off

Top End (cylinders pushrods etc.)
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1961Pan

Cylinder removal: the best/safest/easiest way to get off

#1

Post by 1961Pan »

Yo,

I am doing a top end on my 1961 Panhead. I got the cylinder heads off and the cylinder base nuts. But, the cylinders themselves seem like they are glued to the case. I have tapped on them with a candy axle like my service manual suggests, but they don't want to come loose.
Whats the best / safest / easiest way to get these suckers off without breaking a fin or worse? I need to get the heads and jugs in to the shop in the next day or so in order to have something to ride for bike week.

Thanks
64duo
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Re: Cylinder removal

#2

Post by 64duo »

I just removed mine from my 1964 last week, (had a buddy help) we made sure the pistons were down all the way and just banged em with a rubber mallet, they weren't too bad, cylinders are cast, so I wasn't too worried about poping a fin like on the cast aluminum heads. My front cylinder was already leaking at the front base nut, so it was already having a sealing problem.
Jonathan
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Re: Cylinder removal

#3

Post by sleeper »

Yes they are cast, 'Cast Iron' which is easily breakable as well.

Next time try this, loosen the 'base nuts' up a 1/8" first & remove the top mount/pipes & intake 'only' & 'kick her thru a couple times, or so (as needed). The compression will push the jugs up off the bases. (safely) ;) & the base nuts will limit their travel. This has worked well for me many times. & no-one likes any broken fins...

No hammering needed.
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Re: Cylinder removal

#4

Post by caschnd1 »

Ingenious and simple!! That's a tip I'll remember. Thanks Billy! And amen to "no-one likes broken fins". When I got my pan it probably had 9 broken fins total on the jugs and the heads. Someone must have hired the Samsonite Gorilla to pull the heads and jugs at one time ;)
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Re: Cylinder removal

#5

Post by sleeper »

No Problem...
(1) thing I hate is looking at a 'sharp scoot' w/a bunch of broken fins. Really takes away from the looks & doesn't help cooling either.. :o
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Re: Cylinder removal

#6

Post by suicideshovel65 »

Great idea. How hard is it to repair fins on the cylinders?
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Re: Cylinder removal

#7

Post by caschnd1 »

The guy who fixed mine uses old overbored jugs as doners for the fins. He'll cut off a piece to match what your good jug is missing. Then he welds the donated fin to your good jug. He did a really nice job. Clean weld. I learned something because I didn't know you could weld cast iron. My welding experience is pretty limited. He fixed the fins on the heads in a similar fashion except that he gets the fin material from another source (not sure where). When he was done I couldn't even tell which fins had been repaired on the heads. Had to pull out pictures that were taken before the repair.
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Re: Cylinder removal

#8

Post by PanPal »

I would try a piece of wooden broom handle from the inside of the cylinder to keep from hitting on the fins. I would try hitting forward and backwards as much as possible so it moves in line with the wrist pin. If they are glued that tight, shock may not be the answer. If you can rig up something to put constant pressure on the cylinder, you may find it will break free slowly. Also take the piston to the lower position in the jug before tapping on it. Just a thought.

Cast iron can be welded. If the piece you would need to be repaired is not subject to shock, welding is great and can be finished so you do not see the repair. If the piece you are repairing is subject to shock, they recommend brazing.
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Re: Cylinder removal

#9

Post by madcatter »

yes cast can be repaired but finding some to take the time and not all your money is almost impossible.
cast itself is a dirty material with alot of porosity.preheating is nessesisary.we repaired a set of shovel heads by heating in a welding rod oven,when 400degrees meltstick melted we removed and tigweld after a few return trips back to the oven good looking finns.when we finished we replaced heads back in rod oven and turned temp down to 200 and after 2 hours or so we turned oven off and removed heads the next day,i guess we coulda buried them in a sandbox but the need to be postheated after welded.the job was a hassle but worth it.when we were done the old diegrinder came out and also the dremmell tool.we sent them to be shot blasted to hide the repair.cant evenb tell that it was ever done but the whole process was time consuming
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