Base Gasket /Head Gasket Advise

[Panhead Dave]

Hello All,

I have read that paper gaskets are the best to use. Is this true? What sealer if any should I use on them. Is sealer applied to both sides?

The torque value seems to be 35 ft lbs is this correct?

Also what brand type of head and base gaskets would you recomend? I think James has been said to be of good quality but what product line from this company would be good to use?

Any additional tips would be appreciated as this is the first work being done on my 58.

Thanks Dave

[FlatHeadSix]

Dave...
I'm sure you're going to get a lot of different opinions here because everyone has their personal favorites, here's mine:
1. James gaskets are the "Cadillac" of gaskets, you can't go wrong
2. Paper gaskets on the cylinder bases, a light coat of petroleum jelly on both sides, no sealer or cement or other "goop" is required.
3. I like the blue teflon head gaskets or "Fire Ring" type, I've never had any problems with either one. The real key to success is having good flat surfaces on both the cylinders and heads. If the head inserts are protruding, even a little bit, it doesn't matter what kind of gaskets you use, they will give you problems down the road.

good luck with the rebuild.

mike

[51Hog]

This is what it looks like when the steel inserts are not flush with the aluminum. Note the star shaped indentation around the bolt holes in the gasket. See where the gasket blew out between the worst indentations?
I machined the head, put in a new gasket and haven't had any problems since. The blue and the red gaskets have both worked well. I used oil on my base gaskets.

[fourthgear]

As said above , you can't go wrong with the James gaskets . I have a set of the fire ring gaskets from James,for the 65 I'm assem. , I was going to use them ,but have read some things about what they can do to the heads ( indention's that have to be machined out ) so I will be using the old try-ed and true Blue Teflon's by James for the head gaskets.( I'm kinda shy about changing some thing that has worked for me for so long ) The photo above is typical of alot of head gaskets blown out that I have seen , strange how the blow is always around an oil passage .

I do use paper (James of course ) for the base gaskets ,but I do use the dreaded RTV sealant on all my paper gaskets( except the oil pump) , very very sparingly , just enough to make them look wet and no extra gobs at all , I wipe all excess off ( I use throw away examining gloves and wipe excess RTV off them with a lint free rag). I let them set at least twenty min. before I put the parts together and all surfaces must be FREE OF DIRT and OIL . The last part is crucial to good gasket adhesion . I use Acetone to clean all gasket surfaces. My two !

[Cotten]

Many if not most of modern gaskets have either a dry adhesive upon them, or are made from a composite that is self-adhesive.

Occasionally gasket adhesion is not desireable for maintenance operations. A popular "easy removal' approach is spray-on copper coatings and anti-seize. Some non-hardening sealers such as Gasgacinch are excellent in this respect.

However, cylinder base gaskets are notorious for "walking", or slipping outward.
Most times this can be blamed upon an added slippery adhesive, particularly silicones.

Oil or petrolatum will not cause this.

...Cotten

[fourthgear]

However, cylinder base gaskets are notorious for "walking", or slipping outward.
Most times this can be blamed upon an added slippery adhesive, particularly silicones.

Oil or petrolatum will not cause this.

...Cotten

And the those products are not slippery or will not alter the modern gasket composition? RTV is made just for gasket assembly , I don't recall any where , (but maybe fifty years ago) ,manufactures recommending some kind of petroleum product for gasket assembly.I'd rather put them on dry , but I have found that minor imperfections in (old ) gasket surfaces need to be addressed in some way . Sure the gasket should do this , but I have found relying on just the dry gasket , is a leak waiting to happen . Any gasket that has been treated properly with RTV , will just slip off when disassembled , if needed and you will only need to do minor wiping off of the gasket surfaces , to clean them up.

[mbskeam]

I like to hylomar in the spray can,
just a light mist on both sides of paper gaskets, none on the head gasket
a very leak and weep free engine
mbskeam

[58flh]

I know its a little late for this discusion!---But I to use James Gaskets!---ON the cyl-base gasket I lightly spray 2 sides with the COPPER sealer in the can, Im not sure but I think its (permatex,or indianhead) company that makes it. For the heads ,both surfaces as perfectly flat as you can get! I wipe down with denatured alcohol-3-4 times, it cleans verygood & evaporates ,so no worry about drying!. James firering gaskets--with a even coat of the copper-spray-HI_TEMP stuff. I coat lightly on both sides. Assemble as usual, & tourque to spec in 2 trys, go half 1 time then click-up to proper tourque & finish-off!-DONE---nothing to clean & this procedure has served me well for 25+yrs.(Also this copper stuff comes in a bottle with brush/I have sealed really bad heads-where other shops have failed! I just coat the gasket heavily-2 sides---stay a comfortable distance from oil holes 1/8 to 3/16---& proceed to assemble, tourque as usual!)-This 1 sportster (ironhead)1972---they were having alot of trouble with--the local H.D. & another shop could not seal the rear head! After this kid spent$$$$---My buddy sent him to me, I said If I seal it dont pay me-Just let people know who worked on it! He just supplied the gasket kit I told him to get. It was like the old exhaust asbestos gaskets 3/32 thick. I used the brush-on copper sealer, & assembled to spec +5lbs. extra. That was 6 yrs. back, & he still rides it 5 months in summer!-How I know this is because I take care of his bike every winter!--Sorry for the long rant just wanted to get my 2 cents in.---58flh

[PanPal]

When I was working with the old timers early on in my career, we used to shalac one side of a paper gasket and grease the other. The shalac kept it from slipping and the grease allowed for expansion differences.

paper base and James head gaskets are my votes.