Big problem pushrods Panhead

[MrPanHead2]

Hello experts

Is it possible to change pushrod tubes without to remove rockerboxes or the cylinderhead , i have losen the adjust screw when the pushrod is at it lowest point but i cant "tweak it out" because there still in the "cup" some mm , or is there any trick i can use , or do i have to cut them and get "quick install pushrods" if i dont have the skills to dissambly the motor ?

Ive tried to press the hydraul top/cup down with a screwdriver but it wont go down (pressure ?)

Best Regards

Jens Of Sweden

[Casaba]

This may be a dumb question but are you certain that valve is fully closed? You can try rotatiing the crank slowly to make sure so you have enough room to remove it.

[58flh]

MRP-2-----The adjusters should just clear the cups when there fully turned into the P-ROD./As Cassaba said roll the mill over & make-sure you are on the BOTTOM./That being said Do you know what kind of p-rods they are?/I have run into some shovel-P-rods that I had to really PULL on to get out!--(short story -the guys installed the wrong ones!)--Make sure the top is in the arms cup also.---Good-Luck----RICHIE

[6hds]

If the tappet is at its lowest point, you could have a combination of problems. The pushrods look like they are too long, like spacer plate stroker pushrods. They were probably installed when the hydraulic lifter was dry and the piston was compressed in the cartridge to get the pushrod in. Also what could make things tighter is a lot of valve jobs sinking the valve way beyond the spec. height. I would get a bolt cutter and just nip them out of there when each is at its lowest point. The worst thing is to saw them out, and put unwanted fragments everywhere. A new set of correct pushrods is cheap, compared to the damage that could happen to save the wrong ones. Just my opinion, Gary

[nmaineron]

I have had to pry some out of a few shovels in my day,usually the front intake.What I do is get a good solid prybar,lay something about a 1/4" thick on the edge of the lifter block and pry up against the valve springs.I have a nail puller with a notch in the blade that I use (MOCO authorized tool).What happens here I believe is that after a few valve jobs the seats get a little deep and the pushrod gets pushed into the lifter making the P-rod a little too long.You will have to do a dry lifter install..

[1951 adam]

First, make sure the valves are closed. I don't think I've ever not been able to remove pushrods. You might be able to put a little pressure on the springs to pop it out, but it looks like your ends are way into the cups. I would pull the heads and find out what's going on. Something's not right there.
Adam

[old.wrench]

Jens,
Another trick to remove stubborn pushrods is to use a good sized pair of side-cutters. They look like pliers except they have cutting jaws instead of gripping jaws. Make sure the valve is closed and the pushrod (or tappet) is adjusted as short as it will go. Take your side-cutters and lay the flat side of the jaw on the tappet cup, then squeeze the jaws closed and push down on the handles so you use the side -cutters as a lever to pop the pushrod out. You do it all in one motion, just squeeze and lever. It's a quick and easy way of doing it and shouldn't hurt anything.

Geo.

[PanPal]

Take your side-cutters and lay the flat side of the jaw on the tappet cup, then squeeze the jaws closed and push down on the handles so you use the side -cutters as a lever to pop the pushrod out. You do it all in one motion, just squeeze and lever. It's a quick and easy way of doing it and shouldn't hurt anything.

That's slicker than Owl Shit! Thanks for posting it.

[RUBONE]

This is the factory tool to remove pushrods. It came out in '53. Think it was merely coincidence?

[58flh]

MRPAN2----Looking at the pics again with some magnifiaction utensil.It seems that the middle-nut can go up into the rod more.It may feel tight but its conical & will bottom out on the silver nut.--It may seem to be olny a .0625 worth more to get!-But You take every thing you can get out of them!-(it will make it easier/When prying or it just might skim-thru.The TOOL that RUBONE posted can be easily made at home if you have the knowledge on how to machine it properly--or--JUST use a VICE & DIEGRINDER--It will look UGLY but will do the job!.-Dont forget to heat-treat the forked end in oil.-(QWENCHING would be the proper word for that operation.Then again it may not need it!-(I would do it).---Respectfully--RICHIE

[MrPanHead2]

Took the boltcutter , ther other pushrods same issue , feels to long through that ive have turned the engine around several times....... , i only hope now that i can slide in new ones so they still arent to long ,(wrong ones from the beginning is that possible ?) easyer to get them out then in i belive if there arent any adjustment space ,

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[nmaineron]

You really shouldn't have had to cut them,especially having the pans off...you could have taken the caps of the rocker arm journal and just lifted them out and put them back in the same way.You should check things out to make sure that your rocker arms aren't hitting on the inside of the pans...

[RUBONE]

The bolt cutters put me right off this thread. If someone had done that when I was working on bikes for a living they would have been looking for a new job immediately.

[1951 adam]

Why someone would bolt cut adjustable push rods is beyond me...weird.

[old.wrench]

Holy shit!
You ought to measure one of the old ones before you cut them all. Knowing the length should help you understand what the problem is. Have you bought a set of replacement push rods yet?

Geo.