forks??

[darrylspanhead]

hi anyone got any suggestions on running what forks for 21x3 or 3.5 front rim and drum brakes? my lower trees got to be 1" right?? id like to stick out alittle but i want to also be low? (if that makes any sense)

[jdpan]

I for one, can't stand 21" front wheels. 19" or 16" for me. The stem is 1" yes. If you want it to "stick out" you'll either need to rake the neck or use adjustable trees with extended tubes, if you just want it to be longer and sit higher in front, longer tubes will get the job done.

[darrylspanhead]

yeah i dont want to sit higher in the front though! so i need a shorter fork right...i guess without raking the neck i cant have both... right??? just so im aware...whats raking the neck

[darrylspanhead]

i like this look...this looks smaller then 21 though...what do you think??

marukombikesportytank.JPG

[RUBONE]

i like this look...this looks smaller then 21 though...what do you think??

That is a 21 and those are Hydra-glide forks. The ones in your pics are Sportster!
Robbie

[darrylspanhead]

ok cool! yeah i just sold that front end today...bought a 16x4 rim for my rear and going to take the rest of the money to the swap meet next month! i need a rear drum brake (do you know if they make drum brakes that lace 40 to the rim or do i have to have a hub and drum brake??????) and forks and front rim!

[jdpan]

You sold the hydra Glide forks???

[darrylspanhead]

no no no!!! i sold the sportster forks!

[RUBONE]

You will need a hub and a complete brake assembly. With a stock round swingarm any type will work but all the correct pieces for the type must be used. There are three major variations, the '58 type with narrow shoes and star hub, the '63 type with wide shoes and star hub, and the '67 type with wide shoes and the so called mid star hub that carries the bearings differently.
So you need to educate yourself before swap meet time!
Don't forget to use the search function on this site. There is a huge amount of archived information available. And use the knowledge base as well!
Robbie

[Hauula Pan]

Raking the neck is done 2 ways, (Neither is a good idea) But one is to cut the top frame tube then heat & bend the lower tubes which increases the angle on the steering head. The other is cut the frame at the steering head & re-weld it at an increased angle and add gusset plates. This was done to a lot of frames back in the 60's & 70's when the fad was long extended front ends. Sadly many frames were done by amateurs without any alignment jigs and were butchered beyond any safe use. The best way to lower your front end is to get a set of "Progressive or Burley" springs and shorter tubes. If you want to run the 21" wheel & want more rake angle use raked trees and Don't chop up your frame.

[darrylspanhead]

thanks rubone! do you suggest any are better then the other??? i will do my research and i have looked at alittle at the knowledge base link, not much but alittle! i will try there before loading up questions.

[darrylspanhead]

i did not know you could get raked trees! sweet! ill google that for images! thanks Hauula Pan!!!!!

[darrylspanhead]

i will promise everyone right now! i will not cut my frame!!!

[darrylspanhead]

ive noticed that with the star hub rear wheel the drum sits on the outside...im wondering if this will be a problem if im running a 16x4 rim and 150 tire??? is there enough room??? and if it all good am i looking for a certain size hub for my 16x4 rim or would it be standard like for a 16x3 rim????

[RUBONE]

If you look back at the original answers for your rim width question you will see an estimated chain to tire clearance. That chain line is standard on all drive trains such as you are proposing for the frame you have. It is the same for all H-D transmission to rear wheel combinations from the '30s to the '90s. The rear wheel sprocket and the transmission sprocket need to liner up, so all rear wheels whether drum brake, disc brake , etc, are all in the same position.
Robbie