Stuck steering dampener

[1950Panhead]

I have a very stuck steering dampener rod in a springer fork.
I have drilled a hole .375" (same diameter as threaded rod at top) 1.5" into top of steering stem and beat on both ends with no luck.
Is the stem solid all the way down or hollow at some point? How far down?
The rod appears to be .412" at the bottom. (I removed friction disks)
Others have been here, some advice would be great.

Jerry

[RUBONE]

Jerry,
The rod will stick at the lower end. The stem is basically hollow down to approximately the lower "tree" area. That is where rust occurs and freezes them in. I usually fill the stem hole up with kroil or an ATF mix to soak it . When you beat on the top end the rod can collapse to one side creating an even bigger issue. Do not do it any longer! You can drill from below (since your rod is already ruined) and it will come loose once you drill beyond the waisted portion of the stem. The rod should then fall out the top unless it is accordioned to badly in which case you will have to figure a way to remove the remains.
Robbie

[1950Panhead]

Robbie,
The stem is 10" long, how much is solid?
The stem and rod seem to be one, I hope I don't have to drill 10".
Thanks for answering my post!

Jerry

[RUBONE]

Jerry,
the portion of the stem that is waisted is only from the bottom where you are in the picture to just above the lower centering cone for the bottom race. Just a couple of inches, then the ID of the stem increases to just a thick walled tube.
At the top of the stem there is a flat wound spring around the damper rod. Did you remove it?
Robbie

[1950Panhead]

Robbie, thanks for your help.
John, thanks for the diagram.

Wow, that was work! I had to drill 3" before it would move with an eight pound hammer.
Why would you use the dampener?
I tried it on my panhead once and all it did was make U-turns harder from parking places.
Anyone?

Thanks, Jerry

[FlatHeadSix]

Jerry,
Why would you use the dampner? Have you ridden any springers much at highway speeds? On the 2-wheelers the dampner is VERY effective in reducing the affects of high speed wobble, if you have ever experienced it you will know exactly what I mean. A shock or a ride control works along with the dampner to make your ride a lot more comfortable, and a LOT safer. On the springers that are pulling a sidecar they are a necessity.

Glad you got it out, I've been down the same road several times. I was going to post a few tips but Robbie and John beat me to it. One of the biggest problems is that spring that Robbie mentioned, if it is broken, or rusted in, or both, it can be the reason the rod is stuck in the neck, but once you have the fork out of the neck your problem is only rust.

I've posted this pic before, several years ago I had a seat pogo stick stuck in a VL frame. The spring was most of the problem.

mike

[john HD]

why would you use the dampener?

this would pretty much sum it up ok, i lost my mind and bought a 45...

john

[1950Panhead]

The only springer I've owned is a 29 Henderson.
Knuckleheads need tight dampener for safety?
What part does tight bushings and rocker arm studs play?

[FlatHeadSix]

Knuckleheads need tight dampener for safety?
What part does tight bushings and rocker arm studs play?

Yes!
and all the moving parts work together as a system, bushings, studs, springs, spring rod bushings, spring rods, etc., etc., and all of those along with a good front wheel that is straight and true, balanced, with good bearings, will help to prevent high speed wobble. Like I said, if you have ever experienced, and survived, an episode of high speed wobble you will not quickly forget.

mike

[1950Panhead]

Mike,
Please tell your story again and did you find the cause?
Jerry