elect ignit. ebeyond 2000

[Billpan58]

Installed this on my pan other day unable to get white lines between two parts lined up,when timing mark is where its suppose to be in hole.bike runs when fully advanced,starts fine.seller maintains not right unless white marks line up. tried moving dist. base but still doesnt get to line up.im thinking maybe dist. is one tooth off? a friend maintains it wouldnt run if it was? any ideas?white lines appear to be little less than a quarter inch apart. bike ran fine the wat it was w/points.

[steve_wood]

Can you post some pictures?

[Hog54]

Well you didnt take the distributor out did you?I dont know how it could be a tooth off unless you did?Are you sure you dont have two marks on the flywheel?Ive seen that before.

[Hog54]

By looking at this pic,I dont know how it couldnt line up unless the distributar is a tooth off or your looking at what you think is the timing line on the flywheel.

87872590.jpg (96.45 KiB) Viewed 4805 times

[Billpan58]

no, i didnt take dist. out, more i look at it gotta be off a tooth,yesterday got front timing mark in hole[per manual location] [s and s wheels marked F]we rotated wheels at least 1 1/2 inches before two white lines met, would be worse since i have moved dist base away from factory spot trying to get alignment of white marks. Dist was installed by prior motor builder. another thing i'm starting to wonder is can the gear on the end of dist become worn, you can move timing mark back and forth in hole w/screwdriver and see no movement of dist. is this correct?bike will run but seems to bog down when you get on gas trying to pass.could be carb still trying to hone in screaming eagle we put on last week.

[steve_wood]

On my bike, the slot for the stud ("Circuit breaker adjusting screw") that connects to the advance cable was messed up. As a result, the stud ended up way out of place.

Try this: Remove the nut from the stud. Remove the circuit breaker base (not to be confused with the "timer shaft and housing"). Remove the stud. Now you should be able to put the base back on and rotate it freely. once you find the approximate spot where it lines up, look at the slot to see if the stud will fit in there. (Note that you don't need to pull the shaft from the engine thus messing up your gear match-up).

Sounds a bit confusing, but once you get in there and take the stuff apart, you'll get a good appreciation of how all those parts move together.

Let us know how it goes.

[Billpan58]

Still not having any luck lining up white lines and getting it to run right. tore base apart got white lines lined up but it left me w/little or no movement as far as retard and advance are concerned. plus bike finally started after 30-40 kicks and ran crappy. put base back to where it was when i had points in there,white line far off,runs bad. so, i'm thinking of unbolting dist and trying to jump a tooth? talked to bunch of local shops and they do't want to talk about it[jumping a tooth] or dont know. any thoughts appreciated. one guy does'nt think it could have been off a tooth and run w/points.also thinking of ending this experiment and going back to points. maybe these units[elect. ign.]are best put on auto adv. dist's?

[panhead_kicker]

one guy does'nt think it could have been off a tooth and run w/points.

Oh yes it will. You'll be at the end of your adjustment but it will burn gas. Re-stab the timer, taking note of where it was and where it ends up until you get it one tooth back. Things will line up more better, and you'll have to take your stud back near the factory Line on the timer base. I'll bet the stud is way out in front of the line right now?

[Billpan58]

pulled generator and jumped dist a tooth white lines were closer together[off less than an 1/8 inch]lined them up while timing mark was in proper spot[per manual] bike will run but lacks power[like its still retarded]. getting quite discouraged w/this project.starting to believe combination of s and s wheels and j grind cam are messing w/me. owner of quick start has been trying to help[via phone]

[Billpan58]

looked at circut breaker again tonight, loosened stud got some more movement out of base,bike runs a little better ,will try to get it on a timing light tommorow to get it dial in,quick start owner is not sure why it wont run right when white lines match up. hopefully get it fixed tommorow.I hope all this is worth it in the long run, any one else had problems installing elect. ignit.?later, Bill

[TimmyV]

Been running e-beyond 2000 ignition on my '61 Pan with aftermarket auto advance circuit breaker for the last 8 months or so. No problems whatsoever. Set it & forget it.

Hopefully you will get it sorted out in due time. Once there I think you will appreciate the way your bike starts & runs.

[Billpan58]

is your motor stock? ive got the original circut breaker,is yours 6 or 1`2 volt? what dist. do you have

[TimmyV]

stock motor. 12 volt system. cheap aftermarket auto advance circuit breaker that had single set of points & condensor, then I changed to the e-beyond 2000.

My pal has a stock '51 Pan with the stock manual advance circuit breaker, with 12 volt system. also has this ignition & has no problems.

[Billpan58]

another question, when your timing mark is in the hole[per manual] do your white lines match [quickstart unit] perfectly?we got every thing lined up and bike starts,idels but runs poorly, backfires when you shift ,has no power. real maddening!!!!these units have 4 magnets inside rotor gotta believe going away from line up of white lines is not the answer. Maybe someone has the answer?

[Billpan58]

finally got it running right on sunday,retired hd mech.[pans] came over he found the sweet spot .still fine tuning screaming eagle carb,hopefully done tomorrow already starts when hot better than bendix ever did.