Magneto install

[zman]

Just got a magneto off of ebay. Has anybody installed one? I have a '50 panhead with 12 volt conversion. I couldn't pull out the stock distributer with STD heads on. Also do I need to change the spark plug gap? And is it alright to leave the battery installed, or do I have to re-wire the lights?

[fourthgear]

You should be able to pull the circuit breaker out by taking the head off of it and then remove the body from the case with a little wiggling . You may also need to drop the front exh. push rod tube to give you a little more wiggle room. Sorry can't help with the Mag. conversion , there are a bunch here that can help ya though with that.

[DJ]

zman welcome!,

You should be able to remove the stock timer by first removing the head of the timer as fourthgear said....I would almost call it the "base"....the thing that the points and condenser screw down on. Then the shaft and the rest should come up easier.
You will have to have enough clearance for the magneto head, which means shaving some head fins and hogging off the relay boss.! This is the toughest decision to make with a stock case! The damage was already done to mine. Much has been said on this problem here.

You should use solid core, non-resistor type 7mm or 8mm spark plug wires. The best spark plugs to use with a magneto on a Panhead are Autolite 4275's.....assuming that STD's use short reach threads.....if they have long reach threads, use Autolite 4265's (I think).......don't use Champion J12YC's or anything that has "R" at the beginning of the number. This stands for "resistor type" and your magneto will not like them. Non-Resistor plugs and wires are very important. If the coil in your magneto has any evidence of arcing or burning near the springs, replace it. The spark plug gap should be .018"......the points gap should be .015". You should use a Bakelite cap and a cap gasket made of cork/neoprene.
You can leave the battery.......I would. I run a magneto without one and want/need a battery before spring to have lights that don't dim as much at low rpm...simply disconnect the coil and old timer wire to run your mag.
If you need a rebuild, Buck at http://www.goblinmillworx.com/ does excellent work.

[PanPal]

DJ

Are you running a battery eliminator or capacitor to help with the lights dimming. I'm curious because I plan on taking the battery out as well, but I do have the battery eliminator to install.

[03Roadking]

Post by 03Roadking on Mar 9, 2006, 5:03pm

What DJ wrote is why I didn't put a mag on mine I picked one up and was doing the research on installing it, but when I got to the part about making room for it I just couldn't bring myself to grind off the mount even though my Pan is not even close to stock, if I ever HAVE to sell her or I wanted to restore her to stock there's no going back after you grind that boss off

[PanPal]

I bought the 74E Morris which claims not to interfere with the boss or push rod tubes. At most, a light file on one corner may be needed on the boss. I am curious if DJ is running the battery eliminator which I have heard eliminates the dimming of the lights at Idle. I plan on relocating my oil tank, so I really don't want the battery installed as long as it will function OK without it.
Is it true I will have to kick much harder to start the bike with the Mag? The G5 says the bike will start better with a smooth slow kick than than it does when kicking very hard. I would guess this is because it would try to advance kicking harder. I read the 74E needs the motor to turn at 400 RPMs to start. Will the motor turn this fast with a firm push through, or will I need to jump on it to get it going?

[sleeper]

PanPal-

(personally) I file the mag housings, before the boss.

" The G5 says the bike will start better with a smooth slow kick than than it does when kicking very hard. I would guess this is because it would try to advance kicking harder"
No, actually the G-5 Impulse Mag has a 'wind up' in it & when ya kick very slow, the rotor then is released & suddenly spins very rapidly.
Which is like kicking as hard as ya can, w/out ANY of the effort.
The 74E will require good swift kicks. Like the oe timer.
Use Quality Solid-core S plug wires. You'll like it! ;D

[PanPal]

Solid core S plug wires?
Is there something special about the S? I bought 8mm copper core.

[DJ]

PanPal

"DJ......Are you running a battery eliminator or capacitor to help with the lights dimming. I'm curious because I plan on taking the battery out as well, but I do have the battery eliminator to install."

I am running a battery eliminator capacitor. What it does is eliminate the flicker of the headlight at low idle, but it doesn't totally eliminate dimming at low idle. I tend to run my idle just a little high and that helps some.
I want a battery.
I could live without one, but I want one anyway.
The battery eliminator will help a little. Apparently the flicker is caused by the fluctuations in current at low rpms. But a single headlight and tail light will still dim some.
Dunno about the "S" wires but 8mm solid copper core will work fine. Must be Billy's shorthand for SPARK!

[sleeper]

'PanPal wrote:

Solid core S plug wires?
Is there something special about the S? I bought 8mm copper core.

"copper core" sound good. Just what the Doc ordered.

Avoid any Spark Plug wires that are labeled "Suppression' or Resistor' as their name implies, they do just that.
They are more suited for radio noise elimination in autos & use w/electronic ignitions.

;D Yes (sorry) S= Spark (my shorthand) :Smile

[1950bobber]

Have you tried TWO battery eliminator capacitors? They store energy that will be used when your idle is low, correct? So if one is good...why not try two? This is the advice I'm getting...I'm going with the Morris Magneto G5 also and plan to eliminate the battery...building a box in place of the battery with 2 capacitors and the Bosch 12v 60's Sportster regulator. I dunno!!!!!
Jim in Seattle "1950 Bobber"

[PanPal]

Could a small 12 V emergency light battery be used? They are pretty thin. One could be hidden pretty easily on my project.