Ignition/ exhaust question (1942 WLA)
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Ignition/ exhaust question (1942 WLA)
Description: Ignition/ Exhaust question
I'm new and still awaiting my service manual. Can someone tell me the correct point gap? I inherited burnt points with about a .018 gap. I had heard stuff about using the plastic off a cigarette pack to set the points which seems very narrow. With new points at .018 I have to keep the manual advance at full retard. There are other problems yet corrected that could be contributing. Also, I am going to replace the exhaust header pipe. I don't see any type of retainer or gasket. What holds them to the barrils and what seals them?
Thanks
Mike
I'm new and still awaiting my service manual. Can someone tell me the correct point gap? I inherited burnt points with about a .018 gap. I had heard stuff about using the plastic off a cigarette pack to set the points which seems very narrow. With new points at .018 I have to keep the manual advance at full retard. There are other problems yet corrected that could be contributing. Also, I am going to replace the exhaust header pipe. I don't see any type of retainer or gasket. What holds them to the barrils and what seals them?
Thanks
Mike
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Re: Ignition/ exhaust question
msarver: Point gap should be . 022 inch. This is about the thickness of a matchbook cover (cardboard) Use the cellophane wrapper from the cigs to "feel" by pulling when the points open. A servicable road side fix when you have no timing light and no feeler gauge. Oh ya, throw the cigs away when done or send them to an addict like me. What motor are you running? BT put the timing mark to the rear of the hole and set the points to just open. Set the advance to full advance and it should be close. I don't know 45s so some one here should help with those.
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Re: Ignition/ exhaust question
yeah I forgot to mention the motor...its a '42 WLA with a 45. The .022 might still be the ticket though since I have the distributor on full retard {manual advance} to get it to run desent. Its been a long time since I worked with point type ignitions but maybe increasing from .018 to .022 will bet the timing closer to where I get full range of the retard/advance. I'm new to these but it looks like there is not much choice since the distributor can only be in the position between the rotation stops, and that point gap is everything. The timing mark is on the small lobe, so rotate it away so the points are opening on the big lobe and set gap with full advance?
Thanks
Thanks
Re: Ignition/ exhaust question
msarver-
Welcome aboard man! Another Flatheadder Cool ;D
Yes, .022" for older 45 Flattys points.. On Highest part of cam. Narrow or wide lobe should have same gap reading. If all is well w/timer cam..
Narrow lobe fires the fr cyl. & wide fires the back cyl.
Doesn't matter setting points unless you are gonna check timing.
Exhaust pipes are held up by clamps, down lower. Pipes just push up into place. If U are having a leaky pipe. Remove pipe, & clean cylinder ex. port w/like a carb cleaner/similar & add a bit of Ultra-copper Hi-Temp sealer around the pipe & cyl hole put together & clamp up good.
Billy
Welcome aboard man! Another Flatheadder Cool ;D
Yes, .022" for older 45 Flattys points.. On Highest part of cam. Narrow or wide lobe should have same gap reading. If all is well w/timer cam..
Narrow lobe fires the fr cyl. & wide fires the back cyl.
Doesn't matter setting points unless you are gonna check timing.
Exhaust pipes are held up by clamps, down lower. Pipes just push up into place. If U are having a leaky pipe. Remove pipe, & clean cylinder ex. port w/like a carb cleaner/similar & add a bit of Ultra-copper Hi-Temp sealer around the pipe & cyl hole put together & clamp up good.
Billy
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Re: Ignition/ exhaust question
Thanks knuck and Billy, I thought I was in the ballpark but just wanted to make sure. I have a fair amount of sanitizing to do this this 'ol girl. The exhaust header pipe is smashed underneath. The guy cut some fish gill like slits in it to help it breath, although I'm hoping to discovery some lost power when I replace it. That intallation looked too simple, just press it in, but I guess that is it after all. Then I need to start over from the intake manifold out and stop the vacumm leaks and freshin up the carb.
thanks again
Mike
thanks again
Mike
Re: Ignition/ exhaust question
Mike-
That IS what this Fine Board is about!!! Helping!!!
Your plan sounds solid! Start at the intake leaks & work from there.. PS: (have fun) too.. ;D
That IS what this Fine Board is about!!! Helping!!!
Your plan sounds solid! Start at the intake leaks & work from there.. PS: (have fun) too.. ;D
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Re: Ignition/ exhaust question
So.....what should I expect after I get the ignition, intake, and fuel system ship shape? Will the old 45 idle along and purr down the road? I presume they must have been fairly trouble free and user friendly since they were used for metermaid and municiple use.
Re: Ignition/ exhaust question
msarver-
Yep, 45" Flat is the longest running production motor HD has ever made. Some may argue that sporty is, but look at sporty's changes from a K model to Iron head, to evo.
Flat is still Flat.. My rig is a 'juiced up' Servi-car formerly Police unit...only 'looks stock' anymore.... ;D
If your mechanicals are in good shape, you should have good reliability from machine. It uses "solid Tappets"
( like solid lifters) they will need an adjust bout every 2,000 miles or so, w/normal maintenence....
It's a tough motor... & Loads of fun!! ;D
Yep, 45" Flat is the longest running production motor HD has ever made. Some may argue that sporty is, but look at sporty's changes from a K model to Iron head, to evo.
Flat is still Flat.. My rig is a 'juiced up' Servi-car formerly Police unit...only 'looks stock' anymore.... ;D
If your mechanicals are in good shape, you should have good reliability from machine. It uses "solid Tappets"
( like solid lifters) they will need an adjust bout every 2,000 miles or so, w/normal maintenence....
It's a tough motor... & Loads of fun!! ;D
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- Joined: Mon Dec 06, 2004 6:42 pm
- Location: Ogden Ut
Re: Ignition/ exhaust question
msarver: Those with 45s claim the most reliable and trouble free. Old meter maid trikes seemed to run forever so maybe right. Good looking solo ride any way.