NOT the usual timing questions
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NOT the usual timing questions
'54 FL, single point timer, 12 volt system, manual advance
I followed all the usual procedures. front piston on compression stroke, timing mark just barely appearing in the timing hole, points at .022, plugs at .025. I have the timer in full advance (looking down at it in full counter-clockwise position).
Rather then set up the light bulb thing to static time it I just grounded the plugs, I can hear and see precisely when the fire. The thing I'm confused about is this: when I have the timer in fully retarded position and turn it slowly to the advanced position the plugs fire before I get to the fully advanced position (at about 3/4 of the way to advanced). now I would expect this is just a matter of the static timing being just a bit off BUT I cannot adjust it any further. The mark on the timer and the end of the sliding piece are lined up and when I loosen the nut I can't rotate the top portion of the timer any further in the direction I need it to go. Could I be this close with the static timing and yet be a tooth off on the timer installation? Is there something I'm missing in the settings? If I loosen the bolt holding the timer in the case can I rotate the entire timer a bit so I can get the static timing right?
I haven't started the motor yet, it's still in my kitchen, so I don't know if I'm close enough now to get her started. Once I get her outside (hopefully within a week or so) and i get her fired up I'll time with a strobe which I firmly believe in for timing accurately, but I'd like to be close to make that first attempt at startup happen before I wear out my leg kicking! lol
Thanks!
I followed all the usual procedures. front piston on compression stroke, timing mark just barely appearing in the timing hole, points at .022, plugs at .025. I have the timer in full advance (looking down at it in full counter-clockwise position).
Rather then set up the light bulb thing to static time it I just grounded the plugs, I can hear and see precisely when the fire. The thing I'm confused about is this: when I have the timer in fully retarded position and turn it slowly to the advanced position the plugs fire before I get to the fully advanced position (at about 3/4 of the way to advanced). now I would expect this is just a matter of the static timing being just a bit off BUT I cannot adjust it any further. The mark on the timer and the end of the sliding piece are lined up and when I loosen the nut I can't rotate the top portion of the timer any further in the direction I need it to go. Could I be this close with the static timing and yet be a tooth off on the timer installation? Is there something I'm missing in the settings? If I loosen the bolt holding the timer in the case can I rotate the entire timer a bit so I can get the static timing right?
I haven't started the motor yet, it's still in my kitchen, so I don't know if I'm close enough now to get her started. Once I get her outside (hopefully within a week or so) and i get her fired up I'll time with a strobe which I firmly believe in for timing accurately, but I'd like to be close to make that first attempt at startup happen before I wear out my leg kicking! lol
Thanks!
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Re: NOT the usual timing questions
i've heard the timer can't come all the way out once the jugs are on. True? if so, can I get it high enough to get it onto another tooth?
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Re: NOT the usual timing questions
you don't need to pull it all the way out, just high enough to turn it one tooth.
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Re: NOT the usual timing questions
Al,
You don't have to pull it all the way out to rotate it a tooth. However, on my '64 motor I can remove the entire timer WITH the stock front head in place. I'll grant you it doesn't look like it will come out, but if you strip the timer all the way down first, it will.
You don't have to pull it all the way out to rotate it a tooth. However, on my '64 motor I can remove the entire timer WITH the stock front head in place. I'll grant you it doesn't look like it will come out, but if you strip the timer all the way down first, it will.
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Re: NOT the usual timing questions
Thanks guys, hopefully I'll get home early enough from work tonight to get at it. I'm hoping to get her out of my kitchen and outside to start her up this week, probably saturday.
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Re: NOT the usual timing questions
so what's the secret for getting the inner bolt out that holds the timer in? I know there MUST be a secret & you guys are holding back on me, LOL
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Re: NOT the usual timing questions
Long skinny fingers with an extra set of joints "they call me E.T." <grin>LittleAl wrote:so what's the secret for getting the inner bolt out that holds the timer in? I know there MUST be a secret & you guys are holding back on me, LOL
I can weasel a small open end ignition wrench in there from the front, just barely.
Re: NOT the usual timing questions
Call kick-start and have them send you a timer open/closed end wrench. For stock style bolts it's an odd size, like 13/16". The wrench is stamped and the closed end is crooked-necked. Reaches right in there and it's the only wrench that does. (616) 245-8991 (EST).
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Re: NOT the usual timing questions
I'm way too cheap and impatient to get a special tool
I took an old 7/16 box wrench, heated where I wanted and bent it. Tedious job but it worked out fine
I took an old 7/16 box wrench, heated where I wanted and bent it. Tedious job but it worked out fine
Re: NOT the usual timing questions
An inch and 5/8 rise. Sure, I can see where it took "bending" sessions to get it right for the job intended. Good wrangling
You screw heads must be non-stock if the 1/4" wrench fits nice and tight. If you burr the facets on the head with too large a wrench it looks bad forever.
Same with those slot head screws for the timer's control coil clamp/trumpet horn (base) bracket. Always use a 9/16 tip screwdriver for those.
You screw heads must be non-stock if the 1/4" wrench fits nice and tight. If you burr the facets on the head with too large a wrench it looks bad forever.
Same with those slot head screws for the timer's control coil clamp/trumpet horn (base) bracket. Always use a 9/16 tip screwdriver for those.
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Re: NOT the usual timing questions
You need this:LittleAl wrote:so what's the secret for getting the inner bolt out that holds the timer in? I know there MUST be a secret & you guys are holding back on me, LOL
Picture thoughtfully provided by VT of this board...
-Kuda (got mine at Kickstart M/C parts, good guy)
'49 panchop
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Re: NOT the usual timing questions
now that's a creative tool! lol
VT, the size on my bolt heads, which I'm guessing ain't original, are 7/16 and the 7/16 box wrench fits firmly on them.
the relay/horn/control cable bracket is repop, I used what came with it, but now maybe I'll change them since I'll have it apart anyway. still didn't take out the timer, just the two bolts, way busy at work the last few days
VT, the size on my bolt heads, which I'm guessing ain't original, are 7/16 and the 7/16 box wrench fits firmly on them.
the relay/horn/control cable bracket is repop, I used what came with it, but now maybe I'll change them since I'll have it apart anyway. still didn't take out the timer, just the two bolts, way busy at work the last few days
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Re: NOT the usual timing questions
I've always been told to use a hollow ground flathead screw driver to keep from damaging slotted head screws.Always use a 9/16 tip screwdriver for those.