Auto advance points: how do they work

[haggis]

Description: Can anyone explain to this dumb Scot how auto advance works?

Post by haggis on Feb 27, 2003, 3:52am

Can anyone explain to this dumb Scot how auto advance works? Can I use it on my 50? Would it work on a double point distributor...or do I buy a new distributor? Met a dude today says he has it on his Knuckle...swears by it.....anyone else done this? Thanks , Haggis

Post by Cotten on Feb 27, 2003, 2:24pm

The mechanical auto-advances use a pair of flyweights that swing outward from centrifugal force to make the points cam advance.
They were all single-point units, with a different shaft, base, cap, etc. Only the "65 version is a proper drop-in for your '50, and it was horribly designed. (By '66 they worked out a bug or two, but went to the magneto-toe style of mounting.)
Modern replacement mechanical units use late-model pointsplates and weight assemblies in them, and the profile of the points cam, nor the advance curve is entirely proper.
I am not familiar with all of the electronic units available, but I assume they have eliminated the mechanical advance along with the points. Undoubtedly, they provide a hotter spark as well.

Post by haggis on Feb 28, 2003, 2:49am

Hi Cotten,
Thanks for the info.going to do some research on the electronic units .
The dude with the knuckle , said he had a advance style throttle grip too.....is this like a bar choke lever?
Come across this? thanks, Haggis

[58flh]

Auto-advance point set-ups work as COTTON has stated!---The new kits that you can by today are very-good!,& accurate!-Now this also goes with the condition your motors in!--(As I said the drop ins you dont even have to take the circuit-breaker(distributor)out!.--The kit has everything you need to get er going & its very simple!-If your not a wrench just follow the directions.that easy!.---The kit contains 2-springs, 2-weights, 2bushings for the 2 pins that hold the weights to the plate,oh yea & 1-plate, 1-set of points & 1 condensor, & all the screws & hardware needed to install!. If you know what your doin it takes about 25min. & thats with timing the bike!. If not Take your time & you will install in about an hour.(remember to read the instructions first!!!.)--I like to add that the good ones which naturaly cost more---the timing plate is laser etched BTDC & ATDC about 6-degrees each way!--so if your a little early you can move it accuratly in the direction it needs to go. Also I have found that insulating the inside of your breaker cover will stop alot of headaches!(because they tend to arc-out sometimes & it will drive you nuts!. What I do is use a good quality black electrical tape & tape-up the inside!.(big-help). And it wont come off as long as you clean the cover with alcohol & remove all the oily-mist,If you have grease in there that high-up you have some real problems that need tending to. To someone who dont wrench all the time this may sound scary to take-on---Its EASY just follow directions!--& before you buy a kit have your local mechanic check-it out--so you get the right one. Upon installing a points-unit like this ----you will notice crisp-throttle right out the gate, There will be more power throughout the RPM-band--The more expensive kits are better, because they come with 4-springs so you can bring your total advance earlier or later, whichever you need for your build/& it comes with the laser etched timing-plate. The prices between a cheaper 1 & more ex. 1 is about $25!. Hell I buy the cheaper ones & do my own changes anyway as im sure most do!---(GOOD-LUCK)-----RICHIE