Plugs and frame

[PanPal]

I have a 74" pan motor with 10.5 to 1 pistons a sifton 108 (.485 lift) cam and a S&S super E shorty carb, manual advance circuit breaker, stock casting heads with high lift valve springs that I've been working on. The previous owner had AC R44 plugs in it. Any suggestions on what plugs I should start with?
It also has a duo glide rear with a rigid front frame. It has a 8 over wide glide front end. I like the forks, the frame is level, but I have 8 inches of trail. I believe a Springer front end, or raked triple trees may be the easiest way to get the trail right. I am considering a new frame. How does one find a frame that will be correct with the parts I have on the bike right now?

[fourthgear]

Panpal
You can try Champion J12YC , its there Copper plus plugs, I have used and put them on almost all I have worked on , I think from 48 to 1974 use the same type plugs (short electrods)you can still get HD plugs in a number of ranges though to try. I think Split fire has some plugs in the year your looking for ,I have no experance with them though so no idea how well they will work or what damage they can do if any. Been using Champion for ever ,you might try diff. gap settings because of your set up( try .25 to start with point Dist.). You should get more info here.there be some good Mechanics on this sight.
You say a rigid front and swing arm rear? Try JP cycle to start with for frames , they got replica frames and custom.

[PanPal]

Champion huh! Are the AC plugs that the guy had in it close to what needs to be in there. I have a couple new HD plugs I'll try, but I was wondering if the changes to the motor means I should go with something different.
Yea, the frame is a Butcher job. I looked at changing it myself, and the changes I want began to look like starting from raw steel would be the same amount of work. I'm running a 21" front wheel and a 18 inch rear wheel. I want to keep it high in the front with space between the motor and tank. Then end up with good looking rake and the proper trail. Without the back shocks. I'll hide some springs or air pods under the seat to save the back a little.

[sleeper]

Panpal-

Running that comp. ratio, 'read your plugs' & if you can use a 'colder plug'.....You will be better off. If you can..

[PanPal]

Thanks Billy!

I looked through the JP book last night. ???
What I found was a weld on rigid rear section for around $168.00. I would need to do some work getting the Shovel disk brake set up on a Rigid. Has anyone here done this?
Looking at Frames is a whole other story. What rake, raised how far, how much stretch? What works with a wide glide 8 over?

[sleeper]

PanPal

Rigid/Disc set-up: I mount the wheel w/Disc (rotor)on,
& align the wheel & correctly (spaced) then put on the 'caliper'.. Then it's just a matter of fabbing brackets to connect (bolt on) to caliper to frame (weld on)...
Look for the post "Trail of Confusion" lot of info about longer front ends & etc..

[sleeper]

PanPal-

In doing this, do leave room in the bolt-on brackets for chain adjustments = wheel moving back or forth a bit.
Other-wise no adj. possible.
"Trail of Confusion" Here ya go...

Trail of Confusion

[PanPal]

Billy, Thanks man, I didn't think I was going to get much information on this thread. This is what I was looking for.

This bike is fun as hell! I had to take it for a spin the other day, no fenders, no seat, and no baffles in the pipes. I almost got my ass sucked between the tire and the frame. Restoring the first Pan was fun, but I'm having more fun staying away from E-bay and fabricating parts. Life is good! One to ride One to wrench on. ;D

[sleeper]

PanPal-
It's cool.... I'm sure U can 'wing it' from there...
Sounds like you're 'almost' having TOO much fun.

Important Tech Tip:
Tuck your shirt 'in' before the fenderless back tire snags it, & 'gobbles you up'..... ;D

Have fun, that's the way it should be.......

my 1.7 cents...