Setting Timing

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ccislander
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Setting Timing

#1

Post by ccislander »

I've read a number of posts regarding setting the timing and would like to share a very easy way I've used to set the timing on my bikes for many years. Keep in mind, I'm just a shadetree mechanic, so please, any of the highly knowledgeable guys here let me know if I'm off base.
1. Set the points gap (I use .020)
2. Set the flywheel timing mark in the center of the inspection hole, making sure the front cylinder is on its compression stroke.
3. Set the circuit breaker unit to fully advanced.
4. Loosen the circuit breaker lock nut and rotate the base fully clockwise. Make sure the stud with the control cable stays in the fully advanced position.
5. Turn the ignition key on and slowly rotate the circuit breaker base counter clockwise to the exact spot where the points break open - you'll see a spark and hear the snap at that point.
6. Tighten the lock nut down and you're ready to roll.
I use the same process on a nose cone shovel, locking the points cam down in the fully advanced position.
james
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Re: Setting Timing

#2

Post by james »

Not bad, I like using a test light instead of watching the points spark. Test light wire to point side of coil and test light pointer to ground.
Do the same set up as you say and watch the test light. it will tell you exactly when the points open. After you tighten down the timer nut, what happens when you recheck the timing, is it right on? How are you turning over the engine, with the foot pedal or rear wheel in gear?
Jim M
ccislander
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Re: Setting Timing

#3

Post by ccislander »

If I have someone in the garage to help, I have him/her turn the motor over by the kick starter. If I'm by myself, I use the rear wheel.
To check the timing, I retard it fully by the handlebar control, turn the ignition back on and advance the timing to make sure the points spark just as the handlebar control bottoms out fully advanced.
I've used an ohm meter or a test light a few times but it seems like I need a 3rd hand for that and this method has always worked well for me.
Faustmill
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Re: Setting Timing

#4

Post by Faustmill »

I believe the points should just open with the timing mark at the right side of the inspection hole when fully advanced -- not in the center of the hole. Correct me if I am wrong, but that is the way I read the manual.
Mark44
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Re: Setting Timing

#5

Post by Mark44 »

ccislander wrote: 2. Set the flywheel timing mark in the center of the inspection hole, making sure the front cylinder is on its compression stroke.
Like Faustmill said, and per the Service Manual for '48 - '57 Panheads Electrical - Circuit Breaker) the mark should be at the right side of the timing hole for FL and FLH motors. Setting the timing with the mark in the middle is for XL motors. The Service Manual for '58 and '59 says the same thing.
58flh
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Re: Setting Timing

#6

Post by 58flh »

Cisslander----I always use the rear wheel for bringing the slash into the hole//Not that the kicker wont work & nothing wrong with using it!.When using rear wheel you have ALL LASH taken-up in chains & gearcase/I guess its just an old habbit Im use to when static timing/But if you drop a strobe on it /the rearwheel method is always within a degree or 2/depending on rest of mill ofcourse.Have fun with it --If using aftermarket AUTO-ADV. timers/put slash in middle of hole for any year pan/knuck/etc.Then strobe to dead on.Remember the points cams on auto-adv. timers are ground to shovel specs.Not much of an issue /But from an old clock-chaser,an issue it is!.Keep in mind todays crappy gas to!-----Respectfully----Richie
panfreak
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Re: Setting Timing

#7

Post by panfreak »

I set the gap and get it running. Once it's warmed up I loosen the timer and rotate one way or the other until I hear it hit the sweet spot. Lock it down and good to go. I haven't looked in the hole in years so couldn't tell you where the slash mark ends up, I use my ear and my right hand to tell me if it's where it wants to be.
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