62 FL Mallory Ignition / coil combo???

[BornFast]

Hello all...
I'm a forum newbie as I've come into my first Pan motor recently and am getting into my winter build project. That being said, first thing you should know is I mess around on Chops n' Bobs... Restoration ain't my thang. I love vintage bikes but like to customize and add reliability and performance.... And style of course.

At present I'm swapping out a cone Shovel with magneto for the Pan motor but am missing a few things that I need;

Today I purchased a 12 volt generator with attached regulator from Cycle Electric, model DVG 5000L. I ordered the low out-put because I intend on running a vintage horseshoe tank - however haven't decided about an accel battery eliminator or a mini 12volt battery.

I ordered a 12 volt because I am running electronic ignition.

Therefor I also ordered a Mallory model A557 electronic advance ignition distributor.
I intend to run the ignition single fire.

What is a good coil match up?
I was thinking an Accel #140408bk apparently they have a lifetime warranty!?!?!? Is that true? Plus it's basically the same company so thought it a good match???

What is a good spark plug match? They must be resistor type is all I know.
The motor was rebuilt with STD replica heads (not sure if that matters).

Also important can I use a battery eliminator or do I need to get a small 12volt battery to power the coil?

Also does the Cycle Electric generator bolt up or is there an issue with the mounting holes?

Any carbon core plug wires recommendations???

Many thanks.
I'll post pics and update as things move along.
Lastly, I welcome all opinions. Such as "you're moving in the wrong direction" or "yup that'll work good" or anything in between.

[awander]

The generator should mount right up to your '62 cases.

[hplhd]

don't you run a battery illiminator if you run a magneto? you will need a battery.

[58flh]

Hello Fast & welcome!--You need the 12V-get a AGM batt/&-$99 from Auto-zone.Its a little big & the $69 Agm will carry your needs.I run points & use to put the Lead-acid type & replace it every year,-not to mention the loss of boiling acid eating my tire.It was Tech for me & I can honestly say I will never use another type but Agm.(absorbed glass mat)-The mallory unit is good -(double check the gear-pin they have been known to shear in past yrs.I cannot tell about a New M-557.Upon start-up the unit is in dual-fire mode-when running it shifts to single.Most Units work that way.Use a Dyna 3-ohm coil with suppresion wires & Plat.-Plugs.Ac Bosh you pick!-As for the std heads-Very-nice -you did not mention if shovel intake or pan-intake.The shovel intake flow better ,but the std is better overall even with the pan-intake.Choose cam Wisely-Mild for every day runner,& by mild for your set-up I would run solid-tappets & a (A) grind cam.Take advantage of your heads!.Ex. snall tube Tunable.-Check the k-base!-it has valuable real world discussion.I must STRESS at anything you do -check for clearence on the cam-(it needs relief on rear lobe & Idler gear-(no biggie).Use cast & not Forged slugs.Hastings Iron-rings.I have a slew of old guys on old bikes & you cannot beat the -(factory formula)-But with what your doing she will love the A cam & Ig. you run.(BUBBLE-TEST your INTAKE)-you cannot even think of starting unless you have no bubbles with 12lbs. on the intake.Use a sensible carb Not a G--E is nice or a worked bendix--I can talk forever & what ill say is out there -(k-base)-is your friend.---Respectfully---Richie-(the A cam does not work well with hyds.-important)--Best of luck & some pics would be nice.

[BornFast]

Hello Fast & welcome!--You need the 12V-get a AGM batt/&-$99 from Auto-zone.Its a little big & the $69 Agm will carry your needs.I run points & use to put the Lead-acid type & replace it every year,-not to mention the loss of boiling acid eating my tire.It was Tech for me & I can honestly say I will never use another type but Agm.(absorbed glass mat)-The mallory unit is good -(double check the gear-pin they have been known to shear in past yrs.I cannot tell about a New M-557.Upon start-up the unit is in dual-fire mode-when running it shifts to single.Most Units work that way.Use a Dyna 3-ohm coil with suppresion wires & Plat.-Plugs.Ac Bosh you pick!-As for the std heads-Very-nice -you did not mention if shovel intake or pan-intake.The shovel intake flow better ,but the std is better overall even with the pan-intake.Choose cam Wisely-Mild for every day runner,& by mild for your set-up I would run solid-tappets & a (A) grind cam.Take advantage of your heads!.Ex. snall tube Tunable.-Check the k-base!-it has valuable real world discussion.I must STRESS at anything you do -check for clearence on the cam-(it needs relief on rear lobe & Idler gear-(no biggie).Use cast & not Forged slugs.Hastings Iron-rings.I have a slew of old guys on old bikes & you cannot beat the -(factory formula)-But with what your doing she will love the A cam & Ig. you run.(BUBBLE-TEST your INTAKE)-you cannot even think of starting unless you have no bubbles with 12lbs. on the intake.Use a sensible carb Not a G--E is nice or a worked bendix--I can talk forever & what ill say is out there -(k-base)-is your friend.---Respectfully---Richie-(the A cam does not work well with hyds.-important)--Best of luck & some pics would be nice.

Thanks guys.

So I'm thinking of using a small Antigravity battery, lithium ion type.

As for the intake I've got a Harold's USA Panifold on order, and intend to run an S&S Super E carb. Not sure what jet size to use as yet???

I've broken the pin before on my Joe Hunt Mag - first the cam gear pin, repaired it and it immediately broke the pin on the mag shaft. I sent it back to Hunt for a full rebuild.

I hear about these Dynatek coils a lot. I guess I'll look into them again as well as all those other recomendations.

[58flh]

B FAST---The E is nice for what your going to do-Start using the stock jetting,I run oem heads & a S&S-E again-(I switch around between bendix & E/But after Factory singlefire Im with the E & love-it.My main is at .070-(I can get away with a .068 & thats Plenty.Your going to have to meke-sure you bubble-test it correctly)-Or the E or any carb. for that matter wont cooperate.Also you dont want a lean cond. on fresh mill & blow a hole thru a piston.After shes running & starting in 1-2 hot kicks run her in slow/6-oil-changes in 1000-miles is what I do.Then you will know if off-idle is good enuff.--To check shut the pumpshooter off & wack her under load,Then take off as if in traffic -see if theres a stumble-if yes a reamer can do the trick or just buy another mid.-jet-(.290-something????-escapes my mind at the moment-but there all diff. & what works for 1-might not for another).Olny you will know what needs tweaking.--Good luck--You have the pan-intake--so-you will notice that the o-ring claps want to ride-in!--The S&S clamps may work well with std.-heads--Keep a close eye on it.Remember that intake is tourqe friendly as a pan should be.(remember soapy-water & bubbletest that thing a few times,I guarantee you will find vacuum-leaks-sometimes they need just a 1/2-turn on the clamp-others you need to start over.Running in a new motor will have leaks along the way,-You know your leaking if you find yourself compensating carb. adjs.-or just run a dry finger under both clamps-if wet its no good & cannot be tuned.---Respectfully--Richie