Looking into that hard to see timing hole.

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panhandler
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Looking into that hard to see timing hole.

#1

Post by panhandler »

I've read a few posts about guys having a hard time trying to align the wheel mark in the timing hole because they can't see from the kick side of the bike. I get my pushrods right and then having removed the timing hole plug, I use an extendable mechanics mirror while standing on the kick side of the bike and nudging the kicker with my left leg/knee...it's only a short distance and it shows the wheel mark very clearly. For timing with a light, I have a piece of nylon tube about 3 inches long that I screw into the timing hole (a nice snug fit) and just brushing the wheel which helps to keep the wheel clean. I get very little, altho some, spray out the tube but the timing mark is very clear in the hole with the light on it.

hope this helps some of you.

regards,
Keith
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Re: Looking into that hard to see timing hole.

#2

Post by Panacea »

Another good method to strobe the timing mark is to just lean the bike over to the right a bit, it takes two guys this way but is very effective.
cdndewey
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Re: Looking into that hard to see timing hole.

#3

Post by cdndewey »

I just pull the plugs, turn it over to near the timing mark (using pushrod as a guide) then lean over and put a large screwdriver in the hole and put some pressure on the flywheel with the screwdriver as I move the kicker through with my other hand. I go slow and I can feel the screwdriver fall into the slot.
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Re: Looking into that hard to see timing hole.

#4

Post by PanPal »

I jack the rear wheel off the ground. put it in 4th gear and turn the wheel with my foot while looking in the hole.
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Re: Looking into that hard to see timing hole.

#5

Post by 58flh »

I find that PANPALs way is VERY easy!-(I use second gear )-& just apply pressure to the wheel until she moves VERY SLOW!,Then align in center,USE a TESTLIGHT,& 99% of the time its right on with the strobe!.--(This way on a AUTO-ADV. Timer!)--Also laying the bike over WORKS GREAT & HARDLY any SPRAY whips out when strobing!.///-I have used the test light on my now Factory Single-Fire Dual-point timer.--BOTH POINTS at .018,& NEVER had to strobe her yet!/Shes running so GOOD,That it puzzles me why guys got rid of the dual-point timers for Single-point ADV. Aftermarket models!--Anyway the Single AUTOs were way better then the MOCOS attempt at it in 65.--Before I get corrected on point gap!-(I know its .022)-It has been my EXP. & ALOT of others that a Tighter gap .018 works good for me!-The smaller gap was like riding a different bike!--They just come to life!--I know one guy found his majic # to be .015,on a stock 74 with a Andrews A & solids.I was surprised at 3-primers & 1-hot its idling!-(Linkert-m-74).So the manuals .022 is good to!-EASY STARTS the whole-9!-But the POWER or TOURQUE from .022 to .018 is AMAZING!-(specialy if you have been setting to .022 forever!)--The smaller gap allows the points to stay closed longer & in turn the coil is building-up more voltage to be shot to the plugs!.I read in some mag. when wifey was shopping that a stock 12-volt HD coil put out 4000 more VOLTS with a .015 gap!--That's more JUICE at the plugs & that's nice for a good flamefront!--(especialy if indexed).It may have been E-R,,,or The horse some 2yrs. back.--I had to laugh as we been doing this for 25+-yrs.--Enuff Babbling----Respectfully---RICHIE
cdndewey
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Re: Looking into that hard to see timing hole.

#6

Post by cdndewey »

58flh wrote:I find that PANPALs way is VERY easy!-(I use second gear )-& just apply pressure to the wheel until she moves VERY SLOW!,Then align in center,USE a TESTLIGHT,& 99% of the time its right on with the strobe!.--(This way on a AUTO-ADV. Timer!)--Also laying the bike over WORKS GREAT & HARDLY any SPRAY whips out when strobing!.///-I have used the test light on my now Factory Single-Fire Dual-point timer.--BOTH POINTS at .018,& NEVER had to strobe her yet!/Shes running so GOOD,That it puzzles me why guys got rid of the dual-point timers for Single-point ADV. Aftermarket models!--Anyway the Single AUTOs were way better then the MOCOS attempt at it in 65.--Before I get corrected on point gap!-(I know its .022)-It has been my EXP. & ALOT of others that a Tighter gap .018 works good for me!-The smaller gap was like riding a different bike!--They just come to life!--I know one guy found his majic # to be .015,on a stock 74 with a Andrews A & solids.I was surprised at 3-primers & 1-hot its idling!-(Linkert-m-74).So the manuals .022 is good to!-EASY STARTS the whole-9!-But the POWER or TOURQUE from .022 to .018 is AMAZING!-(specialy if you have been setting to .022 forever!)--The smaller gap allows the points to stay closed longer & in turn the coil is building-up more voltage to be shot to the plugs!.I read in some mag. when wifey was shopping that a stock 12-volt HD coil put out 4000 more VOLTS with a .015 gap!--That's more JUICE at the plugs & that's nice for a good flamefront!--(especialy if indexed).It may have been E-R,,,or The horse some 2yrs. back.--I had to laugh as we been doing this for 25+-yrs.--Enuff Babbling----Respectfully---RICHIE
I'm surprised you can run a dual point with both points set at .018". The rear set of points usually ends up a little different from the front when you time the rear cylinder.
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