Low spark at points.

[Scrimhorse]

1965 Panhead Electra Glide.12Volt.
Feeble spark to points.Question,is there a difference between 6volt condenser & 12volt condenser when bought as tune up kits for different year models?.
If so could this be my problem of low spark at points.

[Cotten]

Scrimhorse!

I have been lead to believe they are the same.

If you get spark at the plugs, don't worry about it at the points, because it shouldn't be visible in good light anyway.
If get no spark at the plugs, or you start burning the points, then you suspect a condensor problem.

...Cotten
PS: Original 1965 circuit breakers, or 'timers' (they were not a "distributor") are notorious for changing the point gap when the points base is moved for timing. The advance cam may also produce a different gap from front cylinder (narrow lobe) to rear (wide lobe).

[RUBONE]

H-D used the same condenser from '48 (6volt system) through the end of points systems in their bikes (12V system). There is no difference in the condenser for either system, however there can be issues with the condenser itself. It always pays to have a spare on hand.
As pointed out in other recent posts, points are not intended to spark, they merely make and break a circuit. The spark appears at the plugs. A very slight visible spark at the points is fine, a big one indicates a poor condenser.

[Scrimhorse]

Thanks for that.
Next question,could the insulator pin that the condenser wire attaches to be shorting out,ie not insulating?.

[Cotten]

Scrimhorse!

Yes, but it would affect both cylinders.

....Cotten

[Scrap]

Scrimhorse, I don't know how old you are but you may be young enough to have little experience with breaker points ignition. I know that this has been suggested in previous replies but if you have never done it before you may benefit from a detailed explanation. Confirm that the battery is reading 12 volts or very close to it. Make sure the points are closed ( rotate the the engine so that the breaker points are not held open on the cam). Remove the spark plug wires from the plugs. Roll back any insulation from the plug wire so you can see the metal tip on the end of the wire where it contacts the spark plug. Turn on the iginiton switch. Hold one of the plug wires close to any clean spot on the engine that will provide an electric ground, 3/4 " gap or so. It may be easier to have an assistant for the final step. Using a small screwdriver, being careful not to ground it, push the points open. If all is well, you will get a spark to jump the gap from the plug wire to ground. It should be a good strong blue spark. Both plug wires should have similar strength. If not, the coil or the plug wire is the problem. You may know this drill, I had to watch someone do it and explain it to me the first time. Good luck.

[58flh]

Scrimhourse----As Cotton & Others pointed out/--The Timer must also be in GOOD CONDITION!--(The points cam is cheap -get a new one,The bushings get worn in the timer itself!-& that will give very erattic Timing!.--A strobe wont put the mark in the same place twice.Up & down play is critical also!--Its easy to pull & check for wear!.The Plate that the points & cond. screw to IS WARPED!--IF its not new ITS WARPED!-& every time you set gap & tighten,It changes!--This is COMMON stuff that must be CORRECT for proper timing!--Its easy to check-& IF its worn,your pissing into a fan so to say!No amount of new parts will work if the SHAFT-BUSHINGS have EXCESS PLAY-etc.Use the K-Base-(its great INFO!).Then ofcourse proper copper-core wires GOOD POINTS! & Always have a spare cond. or 3!.PLUGS ARE just as Important!---Your on the right track on ASKING QUESTIONS!-(this is good).--Just make-sure your TIMER is up to spec/The whole ADV.-weight set-up also.---Respectfully---Richie