M-Series Linkert Float Valve

[Ohio-Rider]

The service manual says to simply replace the float valve and seat (27382-33) when they may be suspect from wear. I question why they can't be easily serviced by lapping? Mine aren't leaking now but since I have it apart, I have it in my head to dress them up a bit.

The other thing not mentioned in the book was whether or not the main nozzle (27332-50) needed any special orientation during reassembly? Doesn't seem like it should but that square towards the top of it got me wondering.. -Steve

[indianut]

My Free advice would be, if your needle valve is not leaking, clean everything and put it back together. For me the touchiest part of the float setup is the needle arm to needle and to the pin that holds it. Getting the fingers to hold the needle perfectly and evenly can take some time. The nozzle does not need to be keyed as far as I know.

[FlatHeadSix]

Steve,
Good advice from indianut, both issues. If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it. The needle and seat should be absolutely clean but don't try to "dress" it if it isn't leaking now. The nozzle doesn't care how it is oriented as long as it fits snug in the bore and goes all the way up, and the spring has enough tension to keep it there. Clean 'er up, make sure the needle hangs correctly from the fingers on the float bracket, and put it back together.

mike

[Cotten]

I rarely replace a float valve.

The most common reason to replace one is because the hex is wrench-boogered.

After thorough cleaning,
place the needle within the seat,
and hold the valve firmly in a vertical position upon a table top,..
then smack it lightly with a wooden or plastic screwdriver handle.

Maybe twice.

If you can draw vacuum to where it makes a tiny pop when you pull your tongue off of it, its as good as it gets.

....Cotten

[Ohio-Rider]

Thanks everyone, I'll just clean it up and leave it alone then. -Steve