Linkert carbs

[2thread]

I'm new to this ,so I hope I'm doing this right.
Can anyone please tell me what you look for in a M-74B Linkert carb to tell if it is worth rebuilding.
I need to replace my carb, and don't want to buy a piece of junk.
I need to know what to look for when I get my hands on one.

[FlatHeadSix]

Rule #1: If it has ever been chrome plated forget it, find another one

Look for good solid threads, both internal and external, and broken or repaired ears on both mounting surfaces.

Look for excessive wear in the bore where the throttle and choke plates contact when fully closed, deep grooves are not good.

I'm sure Cotten has a much bigger list to share.

mike

[Cotten]

2thread!

The Service Manual covers the basics pretty thoroughly, and your own observations and common sense can take you the rest of the way.

As Mike pointed out,
The most difficult (and expensive) repair operation is required only when the throttledisc has worn an 'eyebrow" groove into the carburetor bore to such extent that it reaches the idle bleeds.
(Illustrated in the attachment; The idle bleed is the dual hole with a slot between, not quite in sight in the photo.)

Replacement of the throttleshaft and bushings at regular intervals prevents this extreme wear. But our forebearers really didn't care that much. Seriously.

So it is best to find a core that has minimal wear.

The repair involves honing the bore to fit an oversized disc, which are not commonly available at this time.
The venturi O.D. must also be enlarged accordingly, however that is part of every thorough rebuild. (The Manual does not address this aspect, as they readily supplied new ones, back in the day.)

The quality of replacement hardware is erratic these days as well, so obviously a complete core carries more merit.

Good Luck!


...Cotten

[2thread]

Thanks for the replys guys.
It gives me a place to start when I find a carb to look at.
What service manual is Cotten talking about in his reply?
I only have a Harley service manual 59-69 e-glide. I don't recall the carb chapter as that detailed.
Thanks again for the help

[john HD]

The quality of replacement hardware is erratic these days as well, so obviously a complete core carries more merit.

that is exactly correct and will save you some cash in the long run. last year at davenport i looked at about a dozen carbs before i found one i liked.

i stayed away from the freshly bead blasted ones that were supposedly "rebuilt" and opted for one that looked like it had not been cleaned and had all of the above mentioned good things going for it. the only item that was missing was the spring for the venturi. as cotten as mentioned in earlier threads heavy handed work with a bead blaster can cause problems with glass beads embedding themselves in out of the way places.

be prepared to fork some cash over for a complete assembly, they run in the 250 dollar range. seems expensive, however if you get a 50 dollar body and start shopping for the small parts it adds up fast!

for example, a medium quality throttle arm is in the 40 dollar range and a complete repro fuel filter is around 60 to 70 bucks!

the more you can get in a core unit the better!

john