Linkert question

[65eglide]

I'm in the process of installing the intake and carb, was doing some reading up on the intake manifold leak test.
In the several years I've run this there was never and insulating block, just 2 gaskets, bike seemed to run and idle fine
What is the purpose of this block? and do I really need one if the bike was running fine without it?
It also seems if this block is installed ( says it's 1/4 ") looks like it would push the carb out too far for the mounts

[58flh]

If bike was RUNNING & IDLING FINE--Then Dont put one on!,---These are better suited for larger bore S&S type carbs.--Now Im not saying that it -the motor wont benefit from a 1-inch or bigger spacer!--But to get the results you may have blown-up the motor LONG AGO!.--If your bikes running good with the stock :inkert on it---LEAVE it be!.----Now for a little performance-wise talk-(nothing to do with your LINKERT). The longer the runners ,the faster the flow of air & fuel---This is a GOOD thing as long as you can get the air & fuel to ATOMIZE!---How many times have you seen a 2-carbed twin & about 7-8 inches of pipe hanging out the side past the carbs.---for airspeed!---Again this is for another posting discusion!---respectfully---RICHIE I also would like to add that COTTON & Robbie will have a wealth of info for you!!

[VPH-D]

Panheads used a spacer/insulator block that is about 1/4" in thickness. Knuckleheads did not use a spacer. The 1" S&S aluminum spacer
would not be appropriate here.
VPH-D

[Gotnoclass]

The phenolic spacer is there to insulated the Carburator from the heat coming out of the manifold.

[65eglide]

If bike was RUNNING & IDLING FINE--Then Dont put one on!,---These are better suited for larger bore S&S type carbs.--Now Im not saying that it -the motor wont benefit from a 1-inch or bigger spacer!--But to get the results you may have blown-up the motor LONG AGO!.--If your bikes running good with the stock :inkert on it---LEAVE it be!.----Now for a little performance-wise talk-(nothing to do with your LINKERT). The longer the runners ,the faster the flow of air & fuel---This is a GOOD thing as long as you can get the air & fuel to ATOMIZE!---How many times have you seen a 2-carbed twin & about 7-8 inches of pipe hanging out the side past the carbs.---for airspeed!---Again this is for another posting discusion!---respectfully---RICHIE I also would like to add that COTTON & Robbie will have a wealth of info for you!!

ok thanks, Just wondering cause the parts manuals shows this insulator, just not sure what it's purpose was

[james]

Not to mention the different size choke rod necessary to use with the bakelite style spacer.

Jim

[65eglide]

funny ...

I went through some boxes of spare parts and found one of the bakelite ones
installed it and sure as shit the linkage was too short...oh well....worked fine for 4 years without it guess it's going back inthe box

[awander]

A piece of coathanger makes a fine choke rod.

[Cotten]

Just some notes Folks,

A used spacer should be ground flat on both sides, just as should the carburetor and manifold flanges.
The flanges are invariably warped, due to the fastener stress upon the stack of soft gaskets.

The carburetor support should be massaged and tweaked to where it aligns the carburetor to the manifold and spacer stack without bind or stress.
The manifold should be leaktested at that position, before installing the spacers and carburetor.

Torque manifold bolts to no more than 14 ft-lbs, and re-torque after several heat cycles.

It has been suggested that if a problem is suspected, this interface can be tested while running with an un-lit propane torch.
Sounds better than a CO2 fire extinguisher, although it wouldn't hurt to keep one close.

....Cotten

[james]

Sir Andrew, a wire coat hanger is rare these days with all the plastic everything else. But I guess they are out there. I would not think one would work as a choke
rod since the metal is so soft. I would just find the right part i need from Old Dude and be done with it.

Jim

[james]

By The way Andrew it's so nice to hear from you again around here.
Your electronic experience is welcome as usual plus the other stuff.

Jim

[awander]

Thanks, Jim!

The coathanger was on my '52 when I bought it, and it works fine, so it's still there.

[Cotten]

Folks,

Coathangars work for welding rod too.
And welding rod works for choke rods, especially stainless.

I suggest makeing it from coathangar first, for a pattern.
Spacing the sharp-kinked "S" can be tricky.

And the trick to installation is a long socket extention to loosen the tab stud from the right side of the bike, so that it swivels, allowing the opposite "L"-hooked end of the rod to pivot into its eye upon the chokeshaft lever.

....Cotten

[Kuda]

Hmm...maybe I just got lucky, but I added the spacer to mine (had to change the bolts of course) and only had to do a bit of tweeking to the stock choke rod to make it work. Mostly straightening out the sharper curves and adding a little belly lift to the center so it wouldn't rub on the manifold. Works just fine...

-Kuda
'49 panchop

[awander]

I forgot to mention that my bike(with the coathanger choke rod) came without the spacer, but when I added it, the choke rod still fit just fine.