Part Number for Turn Signal Switch

[steve_wood]

I was lucky enough to find an almost complete OEM turn signal kit on ebay. The only thing missing is the switch.

Does anybody have a part number for this switch? It's not in my parts manual, it's not in the kit documentation in the KB, and I couldn't find it in the parts manual in the KB either.

Any help would be appreciated.

[UPSROD]

Steve,
The part # for the switch and cable is 70058-50A. That is the external mount type.
Some have DH-50 stamped on the switch housing and some don't.......Rod

[RUBONE]

Steve,
Be sure you have the right switch internals as well. there are external wired switches for other accessories (spotlights, aux. running lights, etc.) and despite similar design and markings are different internally. The detent in the turn signal switch is designed to have an off central position and on to either side.
Robbie

[steve_wood]

I actually have a DH-50 switch! Cool! BUT... wrong internals. Is there a part number for the internal with the detent?

[RUBONE]

Steve,
If you are patient and don't mind fiddling you can make yours into a signal switch. The standard detent is pointed. If you carefully notch it with a radius in it so that in the center position it seats on the contact bar it will be like an original one. Then add on wire on the unused terminal if it is two wire or use as is if three wire!
Robbie

[steve_wood]

Thanks Robbie. I can do that. I actually have two DH-50s. One is an aftermarket so I'll modify the internal from that one.

[steve_wood]

My 12 volt flasher isn't working (just a steady current).

Anybody know a part number for a commonly available replacement? Preferably same form as the original HD so it fits in the OEM clip.

steve

[steve_wood]

UPDATE:

When I work on electrical systems, I like to isolate the circuit I'm working on and test it before I integrate it into the overall system of the bike. In this case, I used a 12 volt AC/DC adapter to drive the lights. It worked, but the lights lit steady.

After pondering for a while, I wondered if the CURRENT could be a factor. That little adapter only produced 350 milliamps... So I took the battery out of the box, made sure it was fully charged, and connected it directly (and only to) the flasher circuit. Success! Obviously, the battery can produce much more current than the little adapter.

Bottom line: Flashers need current.

Case closed.