65 fl starter shaft

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65eglide
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65 fl starter shaft

#1

Post by 65eglide »

Anyone know if it's possible to replace the starter shaft without removing the starter and the shaft housing. Can't really find anything in the manual and it does seem to be removed on the primary side without tilting it up to clear the starter ring gear.
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Re: 65 fl starter shaft

#2

Post by NightShift »

Dear 65eglide,
First you disconnect the battery.
Then you take the primary cover off and catch the big copper washer.
Then you bend the top of the throw out fork so you can wiggle the shaft out.
Look inside the housing to see if the little copper washer is still staked in.
Fix what you got to and then it all goes back in reverse but polarize the generator too.

Hope this helps,
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Re: 65 fl starter shaft

#3

Post by Bosheff »

Shame on you....bosheff
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Re: 65 fl starter shaft

#4

Post by Cotten »

This isn't the first time I've defended Mr. Shift,
nor shall it be the last time.

As a shop owner, I soon found that performing anything more than the customer was prepared for was rarely ever appreciated.

When the machine came in for nothing more than a new starter drive ('sprague clutch' to some), unexpected extraneous costs make for unhappy customers, and a bad reputation to go with it: No good deed goes un-punished.

Removing and replacing the primary drive is another half-hour of flat-rate (real life: twice as long.)
And inevitably the plates would properly need soaked and dressed, the drum and primary case cleansed of goo, rollers re-lubed, and probably the hub nut seal replaced as well. There's another forty minutes of flat-rate grief, and solvent costs/disposal as well. Not to mention that the customer couldn't pick up his machine back when he expected, and a bike bay stayed tied up.
Prudently toss in a fresh chain, perhaps an adjustor shoe, and the tab has tripled or more, and everybody at the bar will hear him b*tch until he talks himself into stiffing the shop.

If you take it apart, its broken.

The fork is mild stamped steel, and accepts many a tweak.
(Beware that you will be tweaking it again soon, if the advanced timing that blew the last drive isn't corrected!)

....Cotten
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Re: 65 fl starter shaft

#5

Post by RUBONE »

I'd have to agree with Cotten and Mr Shift, That method was standard procedure in every shop I ever worked in. and i would not hesitate to do it to this day! I have never seen a fork failure, but in the cone motor days the drive units failed on a regular basis and most often on pampered and often washed bikes. The advance unit was invariably frozen solid. The advent of electronic ignitions solved most of the issues.
Robbie
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Re: 65 fl starter shaft

#6

Post by NightShift »

RUBONE wrote:I'd have to agree with Cotten and Mr Shift,
I taught Cotton everything he knows.
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Re: 65 fl starter shaft

#7

Post by Cotten »

NightShift wrote: I taught Cotton everything he knows.
Tis true for technical issues, albeit most often by bad example.

The finer things in life were taught to me by women.

....Cotten
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Re: 65 fl starter shaft

#8

Post by NightShift »

Cotten wrote:
NightShift wrote: I taught Cotton everything he knows.
Tis true for technical issues, albeit most often by bad example.

The finer things in life were taught to me by women.

....Cotten
Yeah right but they all liked me best.
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Re: 65 fl starter shaft

#9

Post by Sir_Rat »

I learned some very important things from women also.....I learned that the number one cause of divorce is.... :arrow:

:arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: marriage :!:

Aloha......Mike
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Re: 65 fl starter shaft

#10

Post by 65eglide »

NightShift wrote:Dear 65eglide,
First you disconnect the battery.
Then you take the primary cover off and catch the big copper washer.
Then you bend the top of the throw out fork so you can wiggle the shaft out.
Look inside the housing to see if the little copper washer is still staked in.
Fix what you got to and then it all goes back in reverse but polarize the generator too.

Hope this helps,
when i took mine apart the housing did not have that washer in there, how do you keep that in when reassembling ?
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Re: 65 fl starter shaft

#11

Post by Bosheff »

Just hang it on the end of the starter shaft nut....bosheff
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Re: 65 fl starter shaft

#12

Post by Bosheff »

I really didn't mean to crusify you personally, Mr. Shifty. I suppose if one takes their time, and doesn't get all midevil with the fork, one can get away with it. And, as Cotton mentioned, you can't make flat rate by doing a total disassembly, but as Cotton also mentioned, most of the time everything else needs service too. I guess I was just takin a cheap shot. Shame on me. Anytime I ever did that particular service, I gave to customer the option. Most of the time they went the cheap way out, but I made it clear I was not responsible if the fork laid down at a later date. If only the oil tank was just a bit narrower....bosheff
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Re: 65 fl starter shaft

#13

Post by 65eglide »

Bosheff wrote:Just hang it on the end of the starter shaft nut....bosheff
sorry what I meant was the thrust washer in the starter housing
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Re: 65 fl starter shaft

#14

Post by Cotten »

65eglide!

The inboard washer is a shallow press-fit with stakings beside it.
It is best to remove the housing to deal with it.

Staking actually compromises a press fit, although it was probably intended to prevent it from spinning.
Today, we have potting compounds such as Loctite.

I believe replacement washers are available if it shows wear.

There were many mid-year production changes in this assembly, such as a drain hole and an o-ring in the plate between the housing and primary.

Please note that eventually this washer was dispensed with entirely, so if it is missing and there is no counterbore for it, you have a later housing, indistinguishable from the original when installed.

.....Cotten
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