6v mechanical regulator to 12v electronic regulator

[bloodyjack]

So I stuffed an electronic regulator into a mechanical regulator case hopefully it wont get too hot!

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[james]

Not a bad idea but I have a hunch it will need some air flow on it.
How about some sort of venting through the back where you can't see it.
Not to mention it mounts close to a lot of heat. Some venting imagination is in order.
Good luck.
Jim M

[58flh]

BloodyJack---I think its a Fine job you did there!/BUT-I have to go with Jim on the COOLING factor.It is advised to mount them under & up front in a good breeze for cooling those TINY TRIGGERS & CIRCUITS!.And sometimes they still go bad ,even with measures taken.All that soldering & chips/triggers,etc./ Are just put together -tested -then filled with Epoxy as you can see.That Epoxy dont really get rid of the heat!-It actually insulates everything.Thats why the Alum. body or HEAT-SINK has channels running down it to trap cool air & keep it flowing.Im in the same dilemma.I purchased a CE-Genny low-volt without the endcap.Im running the same brainbox that you have.It was advised by CE to mount it up front under the bike for COOLING.I also got a GREAT tip from a friend to run the wires as short as possible to genny.I used the motormount to mount the box/This gave me good airflow over the regulater & wiring was kept to a min.So far so good/Im using a 12-V Magna-Sport AGM battery.82cca/good for lawnmower & some small electric-start gizmos.The prior battery had 320cca & took-up the whole space in the oiltank.This one is small about the size of 4-ciggarette packs together.You did a Great job on that regulater/now its time to see howlong it will last!--Remember your covering it to & its in a spot thats not so cool as far as AIR passing over it.--I wish you good-luck!--If it works out good I think ALOT of the OEM looks will be retained & guys will be doing your mod.!----Respectfully---RICHIE

[bloodyjack]

I am going to run it till it blows I did mount it on a chunk of aluminum and used thermal grease so it will help with dissipating the heat might have to get a backup regulator to switch out if and when it blows.

[58flh]

B-JACK----You have taken good measures!-I would of sprayed the contact points with Di-Electric grease myself.However its the AIRFLOW that does it sorry to say.If you know anything about electronics (As I know jackshit when it comes to electrics,But I built a CCD camera!Following a Cookbook).Any way if you notice the Heatsink for the regulater has finns for trapping air!--This design has been around since man harnessed power!-(its called a PELTIER-COOLER).Some French dude made it to keep contacts cool.Eventually the WRIGHT-Bros. used PELTIERS for thier engines on coils!.Today we call them HEAT-SINKS.To transfer heat AWAY from a hot area & let it cool in the breeze.I personally Love your Idea/Incase its short-lived/Did you think to get a Aftermarket cover & Drill some 1/4-inch holes in the bottom, just to get the airflow moving some & Anything is better then nothing.Im with you ALSO!--Run it until it dies!--(simple enuff ).You gotta let us know how shes doing & how many smiles ya got before overload or heat I should say.Now I have to clear something up before I get slammed for PELTIER-COOLERS!//All Peltier-Coolers had a fan blowing on them as I have on my CCD cooled camera!--I run a pump with water around a 1/4-block of dry-ice Before I can even think about taking a picture.Actually I wait until the lines turn white with frost -Its then I know I can go LONG (exposure-Wise!2-min for luminocity & 15-sec each red yellow green!.If you tried to hold a shutter open for 15-seconds a CCD chip will get EXTREMELY HOT & produce white noise & ruin a otherwise great photo.I have gone 2hrs. using 35mm-film but this is all off topic.I shoot DSOs-(deep space objects)-So Shooting long exposures is common & Hard to do--Took me 3yrs. to get the CRAB-NEBULA on 35mm.Its a relaxing hobby like bikes!.Besides theres some cool shit to see out there!/NOT ALIENS ,yet anyway!.Good-Luck B-JACK in your progress for the hidden brainbox!--Respectfully as always----Richie

[john HD]

Fill the cover with this stuff and it should conduct the heat away and make it last longer.

http://www.radioshack.com/radioshack-si ... 60255.html

john

[58flh]

JOHN -I actualy used that stuff on the cookbook camera.If I understand you correctly ---filling the open space between cover & heatsink will allow the heat to transfer to outside OEM cover better???-Am I on track,cause I did alot of experiments & blew ALOT of expensive Kodak ccd chips!.8yrs ago if you got a 4-Megapixel camera-It was a CCD camera not C-mos sensored.& that was ALOT.I was buying from KODAK 15MEGAPIX to 20-MEGAPIXEL chips & 1-chip cost what buying 4--3-4 megapixel cameras!.That stuff I used to BLOCK HEAT!-& it worked PERFECTLY!--The COOKBOOK is still in use today /we have a Eclipse coming-up but cloudy skies/not worth hauling 310lbs. of equipment to the woods & set-up for a few pics.Anyway THE stuff mentioned by JOHN works GREAT /I should know as a decade ago a 20MEGaPIXEL chip (IF you could find one in CCD-was $1200/my price-& thats 30% discount!.When I used what John posted MY troubles were solved.IT does WISK HEAT AWAY from a HEAT SOURCE!.It was then that I started bying cheap digital cameras like $300/Coolpixs & changing the CCD chips for some PICS. that RIVALED hubbles photos!.I have quite a few published when MARS was a BLOODROP in the sky.Also transit of VENUS across our star!--It wont happen again for 26,000yrs.ENUFF BABBLE--STUFF WORKS---Respectfully----Richie