Main fuse -- where is it?

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Faustmill
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Main fuse -- where is it?

#1

Post by Faustmill »

I just replaced the ignition switch on my 65 FLH. The switch terminal for the red hot wire coming from the battery is very close to the dash base. It probably will hit the base at some point if I hit a bump in the road. I put several layers of electrical tape over the base at this point to prevent this short from happening. I think it will be OK as long as I am aware of it and check it from time to time. BUT -- just in case -- where is the main fuse on this bike? Is it under the gas tank? I cannot find it. The previous owner rewired the bike using the cloth covered replica wiring harness that is available in the catalogues. Even if there is a fuse somewhere I could not change it on the road, since I cannot even see it, assuming it is even there. Can someone tell me where I should install a fuse and what amperage to use? Thanks.
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#2

Post by fourthgear »

There may and may not be any kind of fuse or circuit breaker and if some one wired it they may not have put any thing for that . You can put a inline 15 amp fuse or circuit breaker , inline with the main plus ( + ) wire from the batt. that goes up to the ign. switch ( not the big starter wire ) or if it goes to the rear pannel behind the coil , between the batt. and that rear pannel term.. Some put a fuze holder or breaker right off the batt. , easy to get to . I kind like the circuit breakers my self and use one for each of the main systems , lights , ign. (+ to coil ) , & main (+) to the ign. switch. ( the last is the only one you really need , imo ) I like the relay type circuit breakers (because you don't have to find the right replacement fuse in the field and hope you have enough of them to find the short) , they reset after about a min. after turning power off to them ,so you can find intermitten shorts.
As far as that wire , you can put come anti chaff protection around it to give you some peice of mind , you can get it in the wire sect. at NAPA and you don't have to pull the wire off to put it on , its split so you can cut it to size and slide it around the offending wire , its black and comes in various sizes, looks like flex plastic pipe. JP's & others has some nice stuff that looks like cloth type for you oem types.
Faustmill
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#3

Post by Faustmill »

That all sounds like good advice to me. I will check out those circuit breakers. They sound alot better than fuses. Thanks.
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#4

Post by john HD »

stock it would not had a fuse.

if you are running 6 volts 30 amps are plenty. i use the minature automotive type figuring they are available at every 7-11 or wally world.

the circuit breaker is a good idea also if you do not want to bring fuses with you.

my biggest concern is a fire caused by chafed wires, had it happen once and was not amused as i watched the wires glow red between the gas tanks and head for my legs!

fuse it!

john
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#5

Post by Faustmill »

My bike is a 1965, so I am running 12 volts. I am planning on using a 15 amp circuit breaker in the wire coming off the battery that goes to the ignition switch. Please let me know if you think that 15 amps is not enough. Thanks.
VPH-D

#6

Post by VPH-D »

Some Big Twins after 73 used a circuit breaker on the battery positive terminal. Others had the three breakers on the front of the rear fender. The mounting clip was made of spring steel and held in place with a rivet.
There is probably something on a current model you could adapt easily.
VPH-D
fourthgear
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#7

Post by fourthgear »

I'm currently running a 15amp circuit breaker on my 58 frame and I know it works because when I put the CV carb on last year , I thought I found a better place for my horn wires ( it has power only when I turn my switch to lights , got to run lights all the time here in Fl ) After reassembly , my new wire path pinched the plus wire between the tank and fame ( no idea why I changed the wire path, live and learn ,no matter what age ) it took a while and one day about a mile for home , riding along and then she went dead as a door nail , pulled off the road and turned the ign. switch to first possition and she fired right up , turn to lights & ign. and click, no power . I carrie a my own wiring diagram with me and right there on the side of the road , took about 15 min. to figure out the problem , after dicconecting the power to the horn at the switch , I was up and riding. ( yes I replaced the wire and put it back where it was org. )
15 amp is the lowest I would go , some run 20 and 30 right off the batt., I have over a year on mine with no problems , you can go to a 20 because of electirc start if you wish , they are not expensive , just don't put it in line with any of the large starter cables , I always put the starter (large cable wire ) on the batt. term. first and then the main power (+) for the bike . There is a small copper bar you can get to attach the breaker to to off set it from the batt. for clearance. I will take a photo of where mine is for you to see , just for info .
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#8

Post by fourthgear »

faustmill
This is where I put my circuit breaker ,

Image

I have it set up so I can trouble shoot my system , I have plastic tubes over the term. posts and open at the top so I can put a meter on with out having to remove any thing and still keep any thing from shorting it out .
I wish I would have taken a photo of the one on the 65 before I took her apart to show how the circuit breaker was on the batt. . Right now I have her down to the frame. I will assem. the batt. and bar/circuit breaker and take a photo for you today.
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#9

Post by fourthgear »

faustmill
Here is another way some put the circuit breaker on a FL,FLH , FXE and the connecting bar.

Image
Image
Faustmill
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#10

Post by Faustmill »

Those pictures are great! Thanks.
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