1959 PanShovel SU carbs
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Please start new topics here: New Panhead and Flathead topics
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'06 Road King FLHR - Location: Bremerton Wa
1959 PanShovel SU carbs
Hey,
I am new to this site, and just re-acquired a PanShovel. The bike is on a rigid frame and has the old chrome on it, looks good. It belonged to a friend for about 18 yrs. Anyway, I have an SU carb, push only, and have a tough time starting it. Now I know from my past (I used to ride a '61 FLH) that the problem is with my carb. My ole Linkert ALWAYS started on the 3rd kick, 2 to prime... I just want some other opinions on the SU carbs? I have an S&S I could put on her, but then I would have to change out my bars. The spiral grips won't push the S&S! And I think the old spirals are kinda cool.
Anyway, what do you think of the SU?
I am new to this site, and just re-acquired a PanShovel. The bike is on a rigid frame and has the old chrome on it, looks good. It belonged to a friend for about 18 yrs. Anyway, I have an SU carb, push only, and have a tough time starting it. Now I know from my past (I used to ride a '61 FLH) that the problem is with my carb. My ole Linkert ALWAYS started on the 3rd kick, 2 to prime... I just want some other opinions on the SU carbs? I have an S&S I could put on her, but then I would have to change out my bars. The spiral grips won't push the S&S! And I think the old spirals are kinda cool.
Anyway, what do you think of the SU?
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Re: '59 PanShovel
I've had good luck with the SU carbs, but you have to keep them clean. I would pull the top off and clean the slide and cup then spray it down with WD 40 and put it back together. Some guys put a small amount of light weight oil in the top, but I have had better luck just spraying it down with WD. Use a strong spring. You can change the needles for jetting purposes.
The spiral for your bars can be changed to a later one which will pull instead of push and you could use your S&S
The spiral for your bars can be changed to a later one which will pull instead of push and you could use your S&S
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Re: '59 PanShovel
Hey, I appreciate your reply, never run an SU before. I had it running, but it starts really hard with the SU. I had to dump some gas down the throat to get it to fire. I know the tickler is SUPPOSED to do that, so I just rebuilt the whole carb, except for a new float, which will be coming soon, along with a stronger spring. After I cleaned it really well I sprayed WD on the slide, just haven't put it back on the bike yet. I also have another question: does the tickler housing just thread off? I am wondering if maybe I need to remove and clean it out, the stem that attaches to the carb itself? My bike is stroked to 80 cubes, so what needle would you recomend? The one that is already on the bike should be OK, as my friend ran it for many years, didn't have any problems... but you never know. Thanks for your input.rrhawg wrote:I've had good luck with the SU carbs, but you have to keep them clean. I would pull the top off and clean the slide and cup then spray it down with WD 40 and put it back together. Some guys put a small amount of light weight oil in the top, but I have had better luck just spraying it down with WD. Use a strong spring. You can change the needles for jetting purposes.
The spiral for your bars can be changed to a later one which will pull instead of push and you could use your S&S
Eric
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Re: '59 PanShovel
Rootwad!
If Panhead has Pan heads, and a Shovelhead has Shovel heads, do you mean that you have one of each?
...Cotten
If Panhead has Pan heads, and a Shovelhead has Shovel heads, do you mean that you have one of each?
...Cotten
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Re: '59 PanShovel
When you use the tickler there is a pin on the left side near the air cleaner with a spring on it. You should hold this up when you tickle it, this will hold the slide up so the fuel can get in to the throat of the carb. The tickler is a press fit into the carb body, do not try to remove it. It is just a pump and puts pressure into the float bowl so it will push fuel into the carb. Just make sure that it is not clogged when you have the plate off the bottom. If you hold the slide up when you tickle it you should see fuel come up around the needle.Hey, I appreciate your reply, never run an SU before. I had it running, but it starts really hard with the SU. I had to dump some gas down the throat to get it to fire. I know the tickler is SUPPOSED to do that, so I just rebuilt the whole carb, except for a new float, which will be coming soon, along with a stronger spring. After I cleaned it really well I sprayed WD on the slide, just haven't put it back on the bike yet. I also have another question: does the tickler housing just thread off? I am wondering if maybe I need to remove and clean it out, the stem that attaches to the carb itself? My bike is stroked to 80 cubes, so what needle would you recomend? The one that is already on the bike should be OK, as my friend ran it for many years, didn't have any problems... but you never know. Thanks for your input.
Eric
You might make sure you don't have a intake leak while your at it.
start with needle BBH
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'06 Road King FLHR - Location: Bremerton Wa
Re: '59 PanShovel
Thanks, I know about holding the slide up, and thanks for the info on the press fit. I just checked my (took off and re-installed) my intake to make sure it's not leaking. I wasn't sure which needle to use.rrhawg wrote:When you use the tickler there is a pin on the left side near the air cleaner with a spring on it. You should hold this up when you tickle it, this will hold the slide up so the fuel can get in to the throat of the carb. The tickler is a press fit into the carb body, do not try to remove it. It is just a pump and puts pressure into the float bowl so it will push fuel into the carb. Just make sure that it is not clogged when you have the plate off the bottom. If you hold the slide up when you tickle it you should see fuel come up around the needle.Hey, I appreciate your reply, never run an SU before. I had it running, but it starts really hard with the SU. I had to dump some gas down the throat to get it to fire. I know the tickler is SUPPOSED to do that, so I just rebuilt the whole carb, except for a new float, which will be coming soon, along with a stronger spring. After I cleaned it really well I sprayed WD on the slide, just haven't put it back on the bike yet. I also have another question: does the tickler housing just thread off? I am wondering if maybe I need to remove and clean it out, the stem that attaches to the carb itself? My bike is stroked to 80 cubes, so what needle would you recomend? The one that is already on the bike should be OK, as my friend ran it for many years, didn't have any problems... but you never know. Thanks for your input.
Eric
You might make sure you don't have a intake leak while your at it.
start with needle BBH
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'06 Road King FLHR - Location: Bremerton Wa
Re: '59 PanShovel
Yep... Should I run the Panhead in front or back? Does it make a difference? and if the shovelhead is in front, is that a shovel/pan? Maybe I got the parts from two different bikes mixed up? I am SO confused! Hey, is the front wheel SUPPOSED to have a sprocket on it?Cotten wrote:Rootwad!
If Panhead has Pan heads, and a Shovelhead has Shovel heads, do you mean that you have one of each?
...Cotten
Pretty funny, Ha Ha Ha! I guess I will educate you a bit: Pan/Shovel is bastardizing a pan with shovel heads, not to be confused with a flat-side shovel, which is OK because Harley did it.
Back to the dumpsters, I guess...
rootwad
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Re: '59 PanShovel
The Factory never made such a distinction.
I shall admit, of course, that you certainly got the "bastardized" part right.
...Cotten
I shall admit, of course, that you certainly got the "bastardized" part right.
...Cotten
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Re: '59 PanShovel
You are right: the factory never did, but the people I ride with use the pan/shovel vs flat-side shovel to distinguish one that was stock harley vs one that was built aftermarket. I had a '61 FLH for years, but I NOW have a shovelhead, with a panhead bottom end, that is stroked out to 80 ci, runs well, looks good on the rigid. Maybe down the line when I am rich and have the time, I will change it back to stock. But not today. For now, it is a Pan/Shovel...Cotten wrote:The Factory never made such a distinction.
I shall admit, of course, that you certainly got the "bastardized" part right.
...Cotten
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Re: '59 PanShovel
BTW, I put you on my 'friends' list. I like your style. Hardcore Pan enthusiastrootwad wrote:You are right: the factory never did, but the people I ride with use the pan/shovel vs flat-side shovel to distinguish one that was stock harley vs one that was built aftermarket. I had a '61 FLH for years, but I NOW have a shovelhead, with a panhead bottom end, that is stroked out to 80 ci, runs well, looks good on the rigid. Maybe down the line when I am rich and have the time, I will change it back to stock. But not today. For now, it is a Pan/Shovel...Cotten wrote:The Factory never made such a distinction.
I shall admit, of course, that you certainly got the "bastardized" part right.
...Cotten
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1981 shovel rigid
1955frankenpan - Location: Ingleside ,,Ontario
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Re: '59 PanShovel
OK ,,we all understand pan/shovel ,,,BUT I work on a panvolution that belongs to a friend...So you start with a 62 pan bottom and install a pre92 evo top end...I didn't do the set up,,done at a dealership of all places..The motor runs strong all day.
Dave
Dave