installing intake manafold on 62

[el rojo]

I just had the top end gone over and have put the heads back on with all the bolts just till they seat but can still rotate the heads a hair so that I could get the proper alingment for the manafold. It's been about 35 years since I have done this so can't remember how I did it. I a have the O ring style seals with the S & S aluminum manafold. I tried putting the O rings on the head flanges and trying to slip in the manafold, O rings on the manafold first and incert, have someone hold the manafold in place while I try and slide the O rings in and nothing works! I am using the same O rings that came with it and they seem hard and not very plyable and also have some material that has extruded into the ID of it which I have seen pictures of on this forum.
I am thinking that they have gotten hard as well as swollen due to age and shit fuel so I just ordered new Viton O ring seals. I am in a hurry to get the girl back on the road so figured the old seals would be ok but for a few bucks and a few days shipping, it seems the wise thing to do. Once the new seals show up, what's the best way to put the manafold back on?

Rojo

[kevsett]

I roll the o rings onto the manifold then put the clamps in place at an angle over the cylinder intake ports and then put everything in place.......with an extra hand or two helping me. Once in place the o rings are rolled on the intake and into place before ensuring the clamps get over them.

[el rojo]

I roll the o rings onto the manifold then put the clamps in place at an angle over the cylinder intake ports and then put everything in place.......with an extra hand or two helping me. Once in place the o rings are rolled on the intake and into place before ensuring the clamps get over them.

When you say roll the O rings onto the manifold,,, what do you mean? do you mean you push them inside the barrel of the manafold? then not sure what you mean by "put the clamps over the cylinder intake ports at an angle? I have the aircraft ss clamps that span the whole distance from head lip to manifold lip so you are saying to completely open them up and slide them on? but if I do that the clamp will cover the small gap where the O ring seals go preventing me from reaching in with an ice pic and pulling the seals back out of the inside of the manifold and into place?? sorry for the confusion but don't get it.

Rojo

[Tattoo]

He said onto not into.......Like on the outside......

[58flh]

Elroho----Be advised that the clamps for the S&S are .0625-Wider then OEM.So not olny will you have a miserable time getting them IN.BUT they tend to WALK inwards as the S&S manifold is machined slightly different.You can grind a 1/16 off both clamps or just get the CORRECT ones.Its possible your old clamps may be correct if it came with a different carb.And as Tattoo said-ROLL them up the outside of manifold.As they sit & seal in that groove between manifold & heads.---Respectfully---Richie

[el rojo]

Elroho----Be advised that the clamps for the S&S are .0625-Wider then OEM.So not olny will you have a miserable time getting them IN.BUT they tend to WALK inwards as the S&S manifold is machined slightly different.You can grind a 1/16 off both clamps or just get the CORRECT ones.Its possible your old clamps may be correct if it came with a different carb.And as Tattoo said-ROLL them up the outside of manifold.As they sit & seal in that groove between manifold & heads.---Respectfully---Richie

Thanks Richie,

I may have the correct aircraft clamps already as they came with the bike. I would think that as long as they fit the the lowered lips of the maniforl and heads and not ride up to the larger OD on either side would be OK? Do you happen to know the exact proper width for the S&S clamps and I'll check? I was sent some pictures explaining the technique explained by cotten and once I saw that, I had to kick myself for not getting it. Guess I had tunnel vision on that one!

Rojo

[58flh]

ELROHO---The clamps will have a 10/32-thread with a slight bend on the shaft of screw/bolt whatever you want to call it!.If you want to know for-sure Just put them side by side with the S&S clamps--If less by a 1/16th-They will function properly.Remember to have the carb. support on when Aligning manifold.Sometin-mes you have to bend them a little so the Manifold lines-up with the head.Once you get that /You can turn your heads in so you get the smallest gap without leaving a PIE-SLICE on eighther side.Equal all the way around!--Then put your plate on with the compressor-fitting for hose & get her up to 12lbs.--& Spray dishsoap & water--You will see MASSIVE AMOUNT of BUBBLES!-Tighten clamps evenly & Slowly until NO more bubbles are coming out--Also don't forget the panscrew over the intake-tract,They sometimes leak.If no leaks -Bolt-up your carb. Being careful not to move or bend the support-bar.-DONE--Tourque everything down of whatever is left to do & Fire-up the mill.It will get hot fast /being all is fresh!Let it cool -overnight & Loosen the top mount & Ex. & Re-Tourque the heads to your target number./Most of the time you will find that all is good!/But you also may find 1-or 2 that need a pound more.Good-Luck---Respectfully---RICHIE

[el rojo]

Richie,

What is the pan-screw over the intake track? You mentioned that sometimes they leak?

Rojo

[Mark44]

Richie,

What is the pan-screw over the intake track? You mentioned that sometimes they leak?

Rojo

It's the screw that holds the rocker arm cover (the "pan") right above the intake nipple. Panhead heads have been known to leak at this point, so you should test this location on each head.

[Tattoo]

It's the screw that holds the rocker arm cover (the "pan") right above the intake nipple. Panhead heads have been known to leak at this point, so you should test this location on each head.

I wonder why it would leak there?? That doesn't go into the intake.... Well at least it shouldn't.......

[Mark44]

It's the screw that holds the rocker arm cover (the "pan") right above the intake nipple. Panhead heads have been known to leak at this point, so you should test this location on each head.

I wonder why it would leak there?? That doesn't go into the intake.... Well at least it shouldn't.......

Porosity of the metal in the head would be my guess.