gas shut-off valve
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gas shut-off valve
gas-shut-off valve, internal (I'm guessing these were only on tank-shifters) Anyone have any experience fixing these things? Haven't taken it apart yet (simply doesn't turn off the fuel anymore) J&P makes sells a replacement, but I'd imagine it fits just as poorly as everything ELSE from J&P, Are the most common problems repairable without replacing stuff?
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Re: gas shut-off valve
Same shut off used on hand shift and foot shift bikes.
If the rod end is scored it can be fixed with 220 wet dry.
The socket is scored it can be fixed with a special end mill or replaced.
Jerry
If the rod end is scored it can be fixed with 220 wet dry.
The socket is scored it can be fixed with a special end mill or replaced.
Jerry
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Re: gas shut-off valve
Carl Olsen is making rods with Peek tips.
There are a couple pics on Matt's blog. Just scroll down.
http://www.oldbikesinsd.blogspot.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
There are a couple pics on Matt's blog. Just scroll down.
http://www.oldbikesinsd.blogspot.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: gas shut-off valve
now if we can get carl or matt to answer their email i might find out if they are any good!
tried about 2 months ago...
john
tried about 2 months ago...
john
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Re: gas shut-off valve
Thanks for the responses, I'll pull the thing off next timeI get in town, and see what the deal is
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Re: gas shut-off valve
I want one too! If anybody can get in touch with Carl, perhaps he can provide us with some contact info?
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Re: gas shut-off valve
http://www.carlscyclesupply.com/
Outfitting the plunger ends with PEEK is easy.
But it won't last with,.. nor cure,... a bad seat.
I shelved the project when I discovered entire seat inserts that needed replacement, as the fuel leaked around them.
....Cotten
Outfitting the plunger ends with PEEK is easy.
But it won't last with,.. nor cure,... a bad seat.
I shelved the project when I discovered entire seat inserts that needed replacement, as the fuel leaked around them.
....Cotten
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Re: gas shut-off valve
I made a PEEK tip for mine a few months ago. The bike had never leaked for 12 years, then last year it started to leak.
So i guess my seat was in good shape.
If anyone wants a PEEK tip, I still have some PEEK left....
So i guess my seat was in good shape.
If anyone wants a PEEK tip, I still have some PEEK left....
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64 panhead
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Re: gas shut-off valve
After about a million time's, of opening, and closing your shutoff valve, you end up shoving that little stop/seal too far up the splined shaft. This will not allow it to seal, because it's too far away from the seat.
What I've done is to tap that stop down the shaft, a little bit, and then take a cold chisel, and score up the shaft above the stop. This will prevent the stop/seal from moving up the shaft.
Now she'll have a little play, you can ride-em for quite awhile without having to readjust the stop.
Works for me.
Jim
What I've done is to tap that stop down the shaft, a little bit, and then take a cold chisel, and score up the shaft above the stop. This will prevent the stop/seal from moving up the shaft.
Now she'll have a little play, you can ride-em for quite awhile without having to readjust the stop.
Works for me.
Jim
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Re: gas shut-off valve
Mine just started leaking this month. Overflowing the carb and leaking out. I plan to drain the tank and check it out this weekend. if all esle fails, I can just install another petcock external.
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Re: gas shut-off valve
Huh? Splined shaft with a stop/seal that can move on the shaft? This is nothing like my shutoff rod, where the tip has a thin stem that fits inside the hole through the axis of the rod/tube. There are no splines anywhere, and no way that the tip could move "up" the rod....are we talking about the same thing? The stock H-D "Instant reserve" fuel shutoff valve?longhorn wrote:...you end up shoving that little stop/seal too far up the splined shaft......What I've done is to tap that stop down the shaft, a little bit, and then take a cold chisel, and score up the shaft above the stop.
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70 shovel - Location: SE Minnesota
Re: gas shut-off valve
Andy;
I have a 65, I had the fuel shutoff apart a couple of years ago.
I'm pretty darn sure my shaft was "splined", I'm also pretty sure that when you screw that rod back into the tank, that the tip seats itself into the shut-off seat, and thats what cut's the fuel flow.
I might have been halucinating, but when I tapped that little stop down, and pinged it into place, my fuel shutoff worked.
Maybe "splined" is the wrong word, but that's what it look's like, to me.
I went out to the shop, just happen to have one in my parts cabinet. It is not splined, I'm still pretty sure the one in my 65 is.
The one I'm holding is out of a 58 servi-car.
When I moved that threaded screw/stop, it allowed the tip to tighten against the seat. Whatever, all I know is that it worked.
So I fail as a teacher.
The deal is to get that tip to tighten against the seat, if that threaded piece move's on the shaft it will never go tight.
Jim
I have a 65, I had the fuel shutoff apart a couple of years ago.
I'm pretty darn sure my shaft was "splined", I'm also pretty sure that when you screw that rod back into the tank, that the tip seats itself into the shut-off seat, and thats what cut's the fuel flow.
I might have been halucinating, but when I tapped that little stop down, and pinged it into place, my fuel shutoff worked.
Maybe "splined" is the wrong word, but that's what it look's like, to me.
I went out to the shop, just happen to have one in my parts cabinet. It is not splined, I'm still pretty sure the one in my 65 is.
The one I'm holding is out of a 58 servi-car.
When I moved that threaded screw/stop, it allowed the tip to tighten against the seat. Whatever, all I know is that it worked.
So I fail as a teacher.
The deal is to get that tip to tighten against the seat, if that threaded piece move's on the shaft it will never go tight.
Jim
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Re: gas shut-off valve
I'm interested Andy. How many do you have? I have three bikes that have that set up.awander wrote:I made a PEEK tip for mine a few months ago. The bike had never leaked for 12 years, then last year it started to leak.
So i guess my seat was in good shape.
If anyone wants a PEEK tip, I still have some PEEK left....
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Re: gas shut-off valve
andy,
the splined part is under the threaded collar that threads into the valve body.
i actually knocked mine up until the threads were slid up on the rod so i could use valve lapping compound to hone the seat. then i tapped it back down and soldered into place.
it still weeped a bit. probably around the seat as cotten describes.
john
the splined part is under the threaded collar that threads into the valve body.
i actually knocked mine up until the threads were slid up on the rod so i could use valve lapping compound to hone the seat. then i tapped it back down and soldered into place.
it still weeped a bit. probably around the seat as cotten describes.
john
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70 shovel - Location: SE Minnesota
Re: gas shut-off valve
Okay, so I'm not a very good teacher, at all.
I'll try one more time, then I'll quit!
If you take the shaft stick it in a vise, spread the jaws just wide enough to support that threaded piece, with the shaft loose between the jaw's.
Tap on the cap end of the shaft, this will move that threaded piece toward's the cap end.
This will lengthen the distance between the tip, and the threaded piece.
This will allow the tip to seat, before the threaded stop bottom's out, in it's seat.
I also lapped the tip/seat with lapping compound, when I had that threaded stop up the shaft.
So in reality when you guy's are putting "whatever", on the end's of your shaft's, all you are doing is lengthening the distance between the tip, and the threaded stop. Hmm, which allow's the tip to seat before the threaded stop, seat's. Imagine that.
The biggest problem I see with your Peek fix, is that everytime you screw that rod in to close off your fuel supply, you are squeezing that Peek, against a metal seat. How long do you think that stuff will last? The tip on my rod is metal, not some funky material that is going to disintegrate into my tank, down my fuel line, and into my carb, No Thanks!
I don't own a bike newer than 1970, and I ride my bike's everywhere, and atleast one of them just about every day. I have never had a leak on a shutoff valve that I have repaired with the above method. I've had plenty of leaks with the newer style under the tank petcocks, in fact my 70 is weeping a little as we speak, but that's what shovelheads do! Anybody want a nice 70, I'll swap my bike, and cash, against a decent pan project?
So you can dink around with the Peek if you want to, but try my repair method, it work's. You could solder/braze/weld that stop into place, but you better not ever want to use that part again. I'm thinking she'd be mighty hard to remove that material from the stop, and shaft.
I'm thinkin that Harley used the same shutoff valve for about 25 years, I don't ever remember reading about Peek in any of the early repair books.
Maybe back in the day, you could buy a new shutoff valve, when your's went to heII, and maybe it wouldn't rob the bank, but nowadays you better be able to fix what you have, unless you have unlimited time, and an unlimited wallet, so you can order a part, which more than likely isn't even made in the USA anymore. I'll stick with repairing my old junk.
You guy's are trying new technology on a 50+ year old bike, everybody always think's they have a better way. I'll stick with what has worked since 1940, and I'll shut up.
Jim
I'll try one more time, then I'll quit!
If you take the shaft stick it in a vise, spread the jaws just wide enough to support that threaded piece, with the shaft loose between the jaw's.
Tap on the cap end of the shaft, this will move that threaded piece toward's the cap end.
This will lengthen the distance between the tip, and the threaded piece.
This will allow the tip to seat, before the threaded stop bottom's out, in it's seat.
I also lapped the tip/seat with lapping compound, when I had that threaded stop up the shaft.
So in reality when you guy's are putting "whatever", on the end's of your shaft's, all you are doing is lengthening the distance between the tip, and the threaded stop. Hmm, which allow's the tip to seat before the threaded stop, seat's. Imagine that.
The biggest problem I see with your Peek fix, is that everytime you screw that rod in to close off your fuel supply, you are squeezing that Peek, against a metal seat. How long do you think that stuff will last? The tip on my rod is metal, not some funky material that is going to disintegrate into my tank, down my fuel line, and into my carb, No Thanks!
I don't own a bike newer than 1970, and I ride my bike's everywhere, and atleast one of them just about every day. I have never had a leak on a shutoff valve that I have repaired with the above method. I've had plenty of leaks with the newer style under the tank petcocks, in fact my 70 is weeping a little as we speak, but that's what shovelheads do! Anybody want a nice 70, I'll swap my bike, and cash, against a decent pan project?
So you can dink around with the Peek if you want to, but try my repair method, it work's. You could solder/braze/weld that stop into place, but you better not ever want to use that part again. I'm thinking she'd be mighty hard to remove that material from the stop, and shaft.
I'm thinkin that Harley used the same shutoff valve for about 25 years, I don't ever remember reading about Peek in any of the early repair books.
Maybe back in the day, you could buy a new shutoff valve, when your's went to heII, and maybe it wouldn't rob the bank, but nowadays you better be able to fix what you have, unless you have unlimited time, and an unlimited wallet, so you can order a part, which more than likely isn't even made in the USA anymore. I'll stick with repairing my old junk.
You guy's are trying new technology on a 50+ year old bike, everybody always think's they have a better way. I'll stick with what has worked since 1940, and I'll shut up.
Jim