Front Brake Question

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PanHeadMark3
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Front Brake Question

#1

Post by PanHeadMark3 »

On my 65, I have a stock mechanical front brake. It barely holds the bike on a slight incline. Is this normal? I tried adjusting it per the FSM. I can get the brake lever to feel firm closer or further away from the handle, but that's it. The brake will NOT slow down the bike at any speed. Am I missing something?
49bones
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Re: Front Brake Question

#2

Post by 49bones »

PanHeadMark3 wrote:On my 65, I have a stock mechanical front brake. It barely holds the bike on a slight incline. Is this normal? I tried adjusting it per the FSM. I can get the brake lever to feel firm closer or further away from the handle, but that's it. The brake will NOT slow down the bike at any speed. Am I missing something?

I had a similar instance in the past, my brake was non existent and the whole action of it was rubbish. A good strip and rebuild which takes the best part of half an hour, plus a new cable and its as good as a disc brake. I know with these brakes it pays to have them arc aligned but who knows where you would get that done now. (Also give your shoes a good scrub up with some sharp paper)
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Re: Front Brake Question

#3

Post by 1962FLH »

No it’s NOT normal! You will never get them to work like disk brakes but drum brakes do work good and not only hold on an incline but stop the bike as well. I still run drum brakes on my bike and on my truck. Did you center the shoes before adjusting? Did you remove the front wheel to inspect the brake? Are they clean and dry (not greasy)? If they need to be replaced don’t buy the semi metallic brake linings they suck! The good ones ware out quicker but do stop well. Also when you replace the linings arc them to the drum for maximum stopping power.

Good luck

John
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Re: Front Brake Question

#4

Post by bangkokbob »

They work good for about 2 seconds. Forks will dip and that's about it. Doesn't really matter how much harder you pull that lever.
If you can make it work like a disc please let me know. I'm sure it'll create a lot of interest.
Back juice brakes work very good by the way.
Regards, B.B.
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Re: Front Brake Question

#5

Post by VPH-D »

You've got to disassemble the front brake for a look see...
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Re: Front Brake Question

#6

Post by Casaba »

I've been reading up on this myself. I replaced the shoes but didn't get them arced. I might as well have just bought new soles for my boots! I'm currently rebuilding my front hub since I found things missing from the previous owner and then i'm gonna try to use the adhesive sandpaper in the hub and see if I can arc them and make them work better.

Should be a hoot
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Re: Front Brake Question

#7

Post by Bigincher »

And be sure to bevel the leading edges of the shoes with a file.
Let me know if you have any questions on the hub.
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Re: Front Brake Question

#8

Post by 6hds »

If your brake actuating lever is not bent and all other parts are serviceable, sand the face of the lining, re-assemble and adjust according to the manual. Spin the wheel, appling the brake to drag on the drum, making marks on the lining. You'll no doubt see a small area of brake lining actually contacting the drum. Remove the high spots to increase the contact area. If you can get 50 to 75% contact before exposing the rivets, ( oversize lining is available) the brake will work as good as its design will allow. My Duo-Glide will compress the forks, slow you down, and hold on a hill. Like a disc? not even close! Gary
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