brake rebuilding
Forum rules
Please do not start new topics here, but here: New Panhead and Flathead topics
Please do not start new topics here, but here: New Panhead and Flathead topics
-
- Member
- Posts: 93
- Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 4:59 pm
- Bikes: 59 Pan, 65 Pan, 45 Wl, 46 UL, 41 Chief, 48 Chief, 50 Chief, 53 Hummer, 53 Simplex, and misc. others
- Location: Newport, Oregon
- Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 3 times
brake rebuilding
Where is the best place to send brake drums for new shoes, linings. I have a pair from a V for the Cannonball ride I want to send away,have done and shipped back
-
- Former member
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2784
- Joined: Tue Dec 18, 2007 2:10 pm
- Bikes: 1941/59 EL
1952 FL
1977 FLH
1994 Fatboy - Has thanked: 22 times
- Been thanked: 110 times
Re: brake rebuilding
I see you're on the Oregon Coast.rrhawg wrote:Where is the best place to send brake drums for new shoes, linings. I have a pair from a V for the Cannonball ride I want to send away,have done and shipped back
There's a place in Tacoma, not too far from you. Named "South Side Brake & Clutch". It's been a few years ago, but I live real close and took a couple sets of shoes/drum to them for relining of the shoes and arcing them to the drums. The guy that did mine is also a "motorcyclist", so he was hep to what I wanted. He told me he does all the guys brakes around there.....
They have a variety of material available for the lining, depends on if you want to stop fast or not have the shoes wear out. (That's an easy choice.....)
The cost was really reasonable, I think it was $30 a set, $15 a shoe, and that included the arcing. I took him bead-blasted shoes, he bonded on the new linings and even sprayed some black paint on the iron part of the shoe. I was impressed.
I suggest you call them first to see if they are still doing that work, and make arrangements for shipping, etc.
-
- Moderator
- Senior Member
- Posts: 8378
- Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2008 4:09 am
- Bikes: Multiple H-D, Ducati, BMW, Triumph, BSA,...
- Has thanked: 478 times
- Been thanked: 2933 times
Re: brake rebuilding
These guys do only M/C brakes and are very well respected in the vintage racing community..
http://www.vintagebrake.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.vintagebrake.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
-
- Former member
- Senior Member
- Posts: 3332
- Joined: Sat Jun 26, 2010 1:54 pm
- Bikes: 1958flh 1969sporty,had a knuckle but sold back to original owner
- Location: NEW JERSEY
- Has thanked: 195 times
- Been thanked: 277 times
Re: brake rebuilding
rrhawg---I always thought that vintage motorcycle riders did their own.You can order anytype of shoe matieral you want!-(even if its not for yer bike!)---Just cut it down to where it fits! ,Clamp matieral on shoe & drill the holes!,Next counterbore the holes so rivet heads just fit snug & under the friction surface.,Taper the ends 5/8s on each side is plenty --Now using a sharpie or charcoal pencil SPIN IT IN THE DRUM!--Grind away any interference. Once it spins freely -APPLY BRAKE & grind or Machine off any rubs!.--You will have to make a rivet-head peen tool--(easy just look at the ones that came out & make one from steel that can be aquashed without cracking the Rivet ofcourse.Before all this --(MACHINE DRUM so its square)-If new drum you will be better off as lateral removal will be nil.For a bonding agent before riveting use a 2-part epoxy,It has been working for me for yrs.& by the time you need new shoes again--IT comes off without much effort!--For my panhead I have been using cintered-Iron puck shoes for a 1965-GTO.Im afraid im running low on them & my next matieral will be a challenge!--CERAMIC MAYBE?--We shall see.REspecfully---RICHIE
-
- Former member
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2784
- Joined: Tue Dec 18, 2007 2:10 pm
- Bikes: 1941/59 EL
1952 FL
1977 FLH
1994 Fatboy - Has thanked: 22 times
- Been thanked: 110 times
Re: brake rebuilding
I tried the cintered material, but I found it too hard, which reduced the stopping power. (Just my own experience)
I prefer the softer stuff that wears out fast but stops really well. Used to be made of asbestos, I don't know what it is now.....
I don't mind replacing the shoe linings more often, it's a good trade-off for better stopping power.
I prefer the softer stuff that wears out fast but stops really well. Used to be made of asbestos, I don't know what it is now.....
I don't mind replacing the shoe linings more often, it's a good trade-off for better stopping power.
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 698
- Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2009 5:24 am
- Bikes: 1945 UL
1947 EL
1948-ish Pan
1991 FXLR
2007 FXDB Street Bob - Location: Snohomish, WA
- Has thanked: 22 times
- Been thanked: 35 times
Re: brake rebuilding
Contact info for the shop in Tacoma that Bigincher mentioned:
South Side Brake & Clutch
3612 S. 54th St.
Tacoma, WA 98490
253 473 1433
For the place that Robbie mentioned:
Vintage Brake
15069 Lupine Lane
Sonora, CA 95370
209-533-4346
Fax: (209) 533-4346
info@vintagebrake.com
Michael "Mercury" Morse
South Side Brake & Clutch
3612 S. 54th St.
Tacoma, WA 98490
253 473 1433
For the place that Robbie mentioned:
Vintage Brake
15069 Lupine Lane
Sonora, CA 95370
209-533-4346
Fax: (209) 533-4346
info@vintagebrake.com
Michael "Mercury" Morse
-
- Former member
- Senior Member
- Posts: 3332
- Joined: Sat Jun 26, 2010 1:54 pm
- Bikes: 1958flh 1969sporty,had a knuckle but sold back to original owner
- Location: NEW JERSEY
- Has thanked: 195 times
- Been thanked: 277 times
Re: brake rebuilding
BigInch---If you used the cintered Iron shoes For a GTO-(1965)-I don't know what you mean by trade-off!--As they are Made from an organic matieral with 3/8s-round pucks in it!--& the pucks are of fine matieral.-They actually stopped our bikes the best ,when compared to whats out there today!.Please don't get them mixed-up with the cintered metallic shoes!,They really suck-even on cars!.If the Cintered goat shoes you used looked-like light-driedwheat color with about 12-pucks total after fitting to a bike shoe then there correct!/& They stopped producing them over 35yrs. ago!//The olny way to get them is to special order atleast 400-shoes to make it worthwhile for anybody!.-(I have found my last 4-cases in a brake & clutch manufacturing shop going out of biz.--(IN THE DUMPSTER!).So I hate to say but Im going to have to PURCHASE brake shoes for the first time for drumbrakes in over 20yrs.!--& it will cost a pretty penny to have them made!--(but Ill have plenty until I croak or whatever.)---Respectfully---Richie