Black bolts producing

[panfreak]

Description: After a little practice I am able to produce an even, black finish on just about anything steel

For lack of parkerizing abilities, and a hatred of chrome, I have been experimenting with a method of blackening nuts and bolts to give them a rust proof finish that seems to suit my old pan. Heat bolt in question with torch not quite until it turns red (don't go too hot) and dunk in OLD engine oil. It works best if you dunk it once for a few seconds then heat up again and drop it right in until cool. After a little practice I am able to produce an even, black finish on just about anything steel. Chromed stuff don't work. I am no metallurgist, I think I am merely hardening the things, and I wouldn't trust it on motor mounts etc, but for alot of non critical areas it looks pretty cool, and it's free. I was told of this method by an old timer, I don't think I'm reinventing the wheel, has anyone else done something similar?

[Sidecar]

This is interesting.
You are in effect oil hardening the bolts/nuts. Depending on the Rockwell grade you may be softening them also.
I'm wondering how this would work with a silicone based black paint thinned down somewhat ??
I can see some experimenting in the future......

Thanx for the tip !!!!

Randy

[DuoDave]

There are cheap Parkerizing kits available through the classic motorcycle magazines in the U.K. No doubt you can get them in the U.S.A. also.

[panfreak]

Duodave,
I have seen some kits available, but I like trying to figure out ways to do things on my own and I heard about this method from someone. I figured one night hey, I have old oil and torches, and started experimenting. I did talk to someone in Montana? once about parkerizing, and he said it came from the old steam engine days when they would parkerize internal parts to last way longer. This sounds real interesting. I am curious about this, he went into great detail, and sounded like he had done it to HD's with good results. I wonder if anyone has tried it?

[DuoDave]

Yes Panfreak, it is fun doing stuff like this. The guy I bought my Pan from was in the process of Parkerizing some parts the day I picked my bike up. It looked a pretty simple process. I don't know if there would be any benefit to Parkerizing motorcycle intnernal parts, as they are mostly bathed in oil anyway.

[Cotten]

I have a 3000 watt stainless tank and all the wash trays and paraphernalia, and even the solution for parkerizing,.. but I never use it.
My customers like to wash their machines too much, and they often don't have the patience to go back over all the small hardware with a brush full of petrolatum or lanolin to preserve the parkerizing.
Everyone seems to prefer the results I get with rattlecans instead.
For a basecoat I use Silathane "bronze", although on small fasteners it looks great all by itself. Then for larger hardware, I can match the various original finishes with varied oversprays of Duplicolor "Cast-Coat" and flat black.
The key word is "overspray"; if you hold the can far enough away for the paint globules to partially dry before they land, the effect is grainy, much like the original. Baking helps durability. And you can touch up wear and dings. Often I use it with a small brush to touch up the real thing!
The vaseline or lanolin routine then makes everything appear genuine enough to get past AMCA judges.
The best part about doing it this way is: it's cheap.

[DuoDave]

More trade secrets, Cotten! I know exactly what you mean, as I achieved this effect using a spray can. I wasn't too impressed, as I was trying for a smooth, glossy black finish at the time!
I'd like to know what the benefits are from parkerizing internal parts. I think I read something about this in a magazine, but I am not too sure. Anybody have the answer?

[Cotten]

The parkerizing process was developed by Mr. Parker at the Indian factory (the Wigwam, Springfield MA) in the late 20's, I think, specifically for internals. Harley adapted the process for externals, as Indian used little of it externally until it was government spec'd for WW2.
The benefit of using it upon internals is that it held oil not only as a corrosion preventative, but it provided some lube upon start-up of vehicles that may have been static for some time. You will find most all of your roller cages to be 'parked'.
Modern piston rings are usually 'parked' as well, although names like "Parco-Lubrite" and other tradenames get attached.

[haggis]

seem to remember that quenching hot steel in oil is called bluing...isn't it used on gun barrels. Haggis

[Cotten]

Most gun blueing uses weird acids, and the sheen of the metal shows through. Ever boil traps? It the same thing except gentle organic acids.
But if you look at the finish on an original Springfield '03 30-06 military piece, (The kind we all 'sporterized" as kids... kinda like chopping...well I guess most of us did Mausers), you will see that it has a deep greenish coating that is definitely opaque. This layer of "pickle" has an affinity for oil. Thats why it preserves, and if you wash your parkerized motorcycle parts of their oil, they will still rust.
That Springfield parkerizing is tougher that most all harleyhardware stuff. Or anything you could pickle yourself!

[Skip]

just redid my pan with ALL new bolts...from harley...over 200.00...from my local CAT dealer 27.50 all black grade 8 with lock nuts, flats, and lock washers...will not rust...better than parkerized.

[Jack_Hester]

D.B. -

Tell me more about the black bolts, from CAT. I have an upcoming project that I had planned to use parkerized bolts on. But, haven't found the variety that I need. The bolts you speak of may fit the bill. Especially, if they are better than parkerized, as far as oxidation issues. Thanks.

Jack

[VintageTwin]

CAT part # (s) would be nice. That way we can shop by phone. Just post a scan from the meat of the invoice itemization ticket

[Cotten]

Caterpillar bolts are quite capable of rusting!

....Cotten

[Red55FL]

Black CAT bolts rust just like all the rest down here on the Gulf Coast & offshore.

Red