Parts for Pans

[jlaley]

Hi everyone, what a great forum. Lots of info here. I just bought a '54 FL and have torn it down to bare frame. Now I want to tear into the engine with the main purpose of cleaning and resealing it. New to Pans and I don't know who makes the best parts like gaskets, pistons if needed, and the like. Any insights to what you guys use. Another thing, once you get the cases and heads bead blasted what do you put on them or use to keep them looking good. Thanks, I'll be asking lots more questions I'm sure. Jim

[King]

Jim

Congratulations on acquiring your Pan. You are headed for a great adventure, sometimes frustrating, but the results are well worth the effort.

If you haven’t done so already, I would strongly recommend you get the 48-57 “Factory” Manual and Bruce Palmers’ “How to Restore Your Harley Davidson” these books will answer about 90% of your questions. The rest you can get answered here as this site is the best compendium of Panhead knowledge in existence.

Regarding the motor break-down. Getting the motor apart is not a difficult process but use care in splitting the cases. The three fitted bolts will drift out with gentle tapping and the cases will split easily again with a few well placed taps with the wood block/hammer routine.

I clean all my parts in kerosene with stiff fiber bristle and brass brushes. Once the gunk is off I finish the job by dipping the parts in very hot water and drying them. This will prepare the parts and cases for a mechanic to assess their condition. Then it’s time to take the whole mess to someone who can check the bearings, bushings, races, cylinders, valves, etc. A lot will be obvious but only the micrometer and a well trained eye can determine the real critical stuff. If there is any doubt you will be way ahead of the game to replace.

Panhead heads seem to universally have problems. The valve seats are commonly recessed (“pocketed”) and cracks between the valve seats and the spark plug hole are almost the norm. Leaks around the intake manifold nipple, worn head bolt threads, and the true of the gasket surface also might need attention. Don Sullivan at http://www.headhog.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; can fix all of these.

Glass beading is an acceptable way to give the cases and heads a good finish. However be sure to tape over any areas, like the head bolt inserts, where the beads will collect. Also use a low pressure (~40 psi) to prevent shattering the beads which can cause scratching. When the job is done, be sure to get all of those stray beads off the parts with compressed air. How you keep the parts fresh looking after beading is something I would like to know also.

I have had good luck with James brand gaskets and get a lot of my parts from NOS Parts, http://www.nosparts.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. They carry a good line of high quality nos and reproduction parts clearly distinguishing between nos and repop, and showing which are US made. The big suppliers such as J &P and V Twin have extensive repop lines but quality varies and I would ask for advice here before major purchases.

Welcome to the club and all the best with your project.

King

[jlaley]

Thanks King. Getting it apart and checking things out isn't a problem, I was trying to pick brains here on what brands to use to replace gaskets and such. Sealing these things up is hard enough, I don't want to use inferior stuff. I'm sure you guys know what works on these engines better than me. I do appreciate the info of where to look for trouble like on the heads. Any other things to look out for would be greatly appreciated. Thanks alot, Jim

[Moose]

hey jim

I'm going thru the same on a 50 pan. Just starting the disassembly process and looking forward to the adventure. Good luck I'm sure I'll be posting many many questions

Glenn

[jlaley]

Hey Glenn, same to you. Isn't it great that we have this knowledge base to utilize? Jim

[jellero]

i have recently discovered http://www.denniscorso.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and http://www.olddude.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; but not sure if those are the links so google. j

[Pantony]

jlaley, I have most all Motor Co. ($$$$) gaskets as i was going for being as original as possible on my 48FL. James or Cometic are also good. How does Pantony keep the 48's engine/gearbox cases looking as good as that day I took the pics for the gallery? Ah now for Pantony's suuuuuuper-secret formula (well uh er till now) stainless steel rifle barrel brushes on the fins oils stains bigger tooth brush style stainless brushes on the cases, careful around the parkerized hardware, the parkerizing will get thin. Here it is, go around and do the dark oil spots with Hoppe's #9 rifle barrel cleaner (made for removing powder residue in gun barrels) then spray Gunk Engine cleaner on the whole thing and scrub the remaining dark areas and then go over the whole thing with a combination of soft fiber brushes and harge pipe cleaners, like maybe 2 inch diameter. Then rinse the bike off with hot water and blowdry it. I always dry to lube the moving joints after all that with WD-40 or something. We did that after washing Indy-Cars to all the suspension joints. it displaces water well and your exposed carbon-steel parts won't rust then.

[jlaley]

Thanks for the replies. It sounds like it's going to be a pain to keep it looking the way it should. I better start stocking up some supplies. Thanks again.

[mcjim]

mag wheel cleaner works good on the cast aluminum stuff;just don't get it on polished parts or other stuff.