1955 FL pushrod adjustment

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1955fle
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1955 FL pushrod adjustment

#1

Post by 1955fle »

I removed the front cylinder intake pushrod for inspection. I thought it had a bow in it, it did not. Now I need to put it back and adjust it. I removed the hydraulic unit and emptied the oil and cleaned it. The plunger now goes to the bottom of the hydraulic unit. I read the manual and it says to remove all of the play from the pushrod and turn the nut 3 full turns. Question is - should I fill the hydraulic unit with oil and set the plunger in it to do the adjustment? Or should I leave it empty and make the pushrod adjustment so the pushrod turns with my fingers. Any thoughts will be appreciated.

Carl
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Re: 1955 FL pushrod adjustment

#2

Post by panheadrider1961 »

leave dry follow those directions bottom out to touch do not force, then you are moving rocker arm ,3 turns back off should have light drag on spin of dry clean push rod make sure lifter is at lowest point on cam before adjusting, that is most important ,lowest on cam best to raise rear wheel off ground use your left foot or arm to roll around remove plugs and put in high gear so all those gears in cam chest mesh together and you have better control on doing adjust you can watch lifter rise and fall to see excatly where you need to be and much easier to roll motor with out kicker,if you can pack rag in tappet to clean out all oil soak rag end with brake clean to help with cleaning Good Luck
1955fle
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Re: 1955 FL pushrod adjustment

#3

Post by 1955fle »

panheadrider1961 wrote: Mon Sep 27, 2021 12:22 am leave dry follow those directions bottom out to touch do not force, then you are moving rocker arm ,3 turns back off should have light drag on spin of dry clean push rod make sure lifter is at lowest point on cam before adjusting, that is most important ,lowest on cam best to raise rear wheel off ground use your left foot or arm to roll around remove plugs and put in high gear so all those gears in cam chest mesh together and you have better control on doing adjust you can watch lifter rise and fall to see excatly where you need to be and much easier to roll motor with out kicker,if you can pack rag in tappet to clean out all oil soak rag end with brake clean to help with cleaning Good Luck
Thanks for the reply, seems pretty simple. I will take your advice about cleaning all of the oil.

Carl
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Re: 1955 FL pushrod adjustment

#4

Post by Buddhahoodvatoloco »

It's all in the book,
embrace the printed directions,
seldom do they fail. :lol:
Said the Grasshopper.
1955fle
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Re: 1955 FL pushrod adjustment

#5

Post by 1955fle »

Buddhahoodvatoloco wrote: Mon Sep 27, 2021 2:46 pm It's all in the book,
embrace the printed directions,
seldom do they fail. :lol:
Said the Grasshopper.
I do have a manual. It says to back off 3 turns. It does not talk about the hydraulics with no oil. Just wanted to make sure that I don't tighten them more that I should.

Carl
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Re: 1955 FL pushrod adjustment

#6

Post by roman »

Carl
I had the same thoughts, instructions in manual need to be reread a couple times regarding the hydraulic unit test. So from the comments it appears your not to use/install a lubed unit???
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Re: 1955 FL pushrod adjustment

#7

Post by 1955fle »

roman wrote: Mon Sep 27, 2021 10:14 pm Carl
I had the same thoughts, instructions in manual need to be reread a couple times regarding the hydraulic unit test. So from the comments it appears your not to use/install a lubed unit???
That is what it sounds like. I will do as instructed and turn the engine a couple of time to see if the hydraulics pump up.

Carl
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Re: 1955 FL pushrod adjustment

#8

Post by 1955fle »

1955fle wrote: Mon Sep 27, 2021 12:08 pm
panheadrider1961 wrote: Mon Sep 27, 2021 12:22 am leave dry follow those directions bottom out to touch do not force, then you are moving rocker arm ,3 turns back off should have light drag on spin of dry clean push rod make sure lifter is at lowest point on cam before adjusting, that is most important ,lowest on cam best to raise rear wheel off ground use your left foot or arm to roll around remove plugs and put in high gear so all those gears in cam chest mesh together and you have better control on doing adjust you can watch lifter rise and fall to see excatly where you need to be and much easier to roll motor with out kicker,if you can pack rag in tappet to clean out all oil soak rag end with brake clean to help with cleaning Good Luck
Thanks for the reply, seems pretty simple. I will take your advice about cleaning all of the oil.

Carl
I adjusted the pushrod as you instructed. The new adjustment is 15 threads from the base nut to the bottom of the lock nut. The other 3 pushrods that I did not touch are 11 threads from the base nut to the bottom of the lock nut. Does this matter? Should I make them the same and have the lifter pump up to meet the pushrod?

Carl
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Re: 1955 FL pushrod adjustment

#9

Post by panheadrider1961 »

front exhaust longest,rear exhaust 2nd longest , so if front exhuast may be 1 or 2 threads longer have you cranked it, long as the one you removed is not clattering , what was repair needed for?
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Re: 1955 FL pushrod adjustment

#10

Post by panheadrider1961 »

also does the push rod spin with a slight drag?
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Re: 1955 FL pushrod adjustment

#11

Post by panheadrider1961 »

if it makes you feel better about it back off 2 to 3 threads a little loose better than to tight
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Re: 1955 FL pushrod adjustment

#12

Post by 1955fle »

panheadrider1961 wrote: Wed Sep 29, 2021 5:09 pm front exhaust longest,rear exhaust 2nd longest , so if front exhuast may be 1 or 2 threads longer have you cranked it, long as the one you removed is not clattering , what was repair needed for?
I think the stock pushrods are all the same size. Coming back from a trip I was on the highway and heard some ticking noise I did not like. When I got home I opened the pushrods and the front cylinder forward pushrod looked like it had a slight bend. I removed the pushrod to check. It is straight. I also removed the hydrolic lifter and cleaned out all of the oil. I am now trying to adjust the pushrod I removed. So the lifter is fully collapsed because no oil. What I have done may be correct, but I want to make sure.

Carl
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Re: 1955 FL pushrod adjustment

#13

Post by RooDog »

As long as the engine is cold, and the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke, then as long as the hydraulic is adjusted somewhere in the middle of its travel it will be ok. By their very nature hydraulic lifters are self adjusting....
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Re: 1955 FL pushrod adjustment

#14

Post by panheadrider1961 »

thats good if it still clatters after crank up first starting and get down to a ticking noise ride it to see if it goes away you may have to do cold adjust,over night cold motor take the 1or 2 threads back down you are not hurting anything with out removing again, and these old pans and shovels front exhaust is last to get oil and if its been crusing at highway speed or just long ride they will clatter sometime after slowing down to traffic or taking a break, look at big plug across from rear exhaust block straight slot screw driver head clean area of any dirt build up with brake clean, take the plug out carefully remove screen lay on shop rag it should have 4 pcs to it, maybe wrong on that , but anyway take screen out of spring and clean good with brake clean or carb cleaner any trash and oil sludge build up this is what filters oil before it hits lifters if anything slows oil flow down front exhaust lifter gets hardly none and good maintenance in future change oil pull screen and clean ,and you may have to adjust it a couple of times if so, always overnight cold motor and go 1to 2 threads down until you her no ticking, or where you are statisfied with repair sometimes its not always by the book, hope this helps you with all ride safe
1955fle
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Re: 1955 FL pushrod adjustment

#15

Post by 1955fle »

panheadrider1961 wrote: Wed Sep 29, 2021 6:05 pm thats good if it still clatters after crank up first starting and get down to a ticking noise ride it to see if it goes away you may have to do cold adjust,over night cold motor take the 1or 2 threads back down you are not hurting anything with out removing again, and these old pans and shovels front exhaust is last to get oil and if its been crusing at highway speed or just long ride they will clatter sometime after slowing down to traffic or taking a break, look at big plug across from rear exhaust block straight slot screw driver head clean area of any dirt build up with brake clean, take the plug out carefully remove screen lay on shop rag it should have 4 pcs to it, maybe wrong on that , but anyway take screen out of spring and clean good with brake clean or carb cleaner any trash and oil sludge build up this is what filters oil before it hits lifters if anything slows oil flow down front exhaust lifter gets hardly none and good maintenance in future change oil pull screen and clean ,and you may have to adjust it a couple of times if so, always overnight cold motor and go 1to 2 threads down until you her no ticking, or where you are statisfied with repair sometimes its not always by the book, hope this helps you with all ride safe
Great advice. I will let you know how it goes.

Carl
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