6volt coil primary resistance

[RooDog]

Yeah, ordered a new coil. Not much choice in 6 volt and not wanting to spend bucks to convert to 12v.

Dollars vs Time. How much are you spending trying to solve this problem? Going to 12 Volt system will update all our electrics, except the wiring which actually could be your problem anyway. But by upgrading you will not only gain modern ignition, but also better lighting, and easy replacement of same, should you need new bulbs in the future.

As an after thought, have you bypasses all your wiring, and used a jumper straight from the battery to the coil? There is always the chance the switch or its associated wiring could be bad.....
....RooDog....

[clunker1]

I did check wires even though they are copper conductor wires. I also replaced them with another set.

[clunker1]

I also went through all the wiring. Took the time to upgrade my dash wiring as well. I did not jumper the primary though as you suggested -that is a good thought. Have not spent any real bucks though as I have a barn with used parts from other bikes - just no 6 volt coils. Spent plenty of time though.

[dontsink]

What i did to get rid of the old tar filled coils or the taiwan crap: I dismantled an old oem coil, put a oil filled, 6V coil, made in japan in (it´s from the 70ties i guess and still available new in the bay), soldered, glued and riveted it all together again and painted it black. Now i have a rel. modern and lasting ignition coil which looks like an old one.

[clunker1]

Yeah, wires OK. Changed coil, still hits one cylinder a blows fire out the exhaust during backfires. Seems worse. Checked pushrods. Intakes were a bit tight on intakes and made minor adjustment. I'm at the point of thinking I need an engine tear down. Never had an issue like this before. Checked plugs with ohmmeter.
Tried a compression test and got same reading both cylinders.
Valve issue? Heads? Heads rebuilt by head hog. Timing chest?
Don't really know where to go from here. I'll likely first pull carb and check for vacuum leaks. Have plumber fitting and PEEK seals.

[59Panman]

Did you try the lighting position on your ignition switch and go for a ride? I know you said you inspected the ignition switch and said it looked ok. I would try this first to see if the problem goes away. That's exactly what my bike did before I tried the lighting position. It appears to be an electrical issue to me.

When I was troubleshooting my gas shooting out the pipe, I contacted Quikstart 2000. He sent me a replacement ignition to test. My bike continued to have the same issue. He told me to move the magnet closer to the ignition which I did as he said sometimes that can cause issues. You can widen the holes on the pickup bracket and move it a hair closer to the sensor. You may have too big of a gap. Contact Quikstart to get his opinion.

**I converted to 12 volt just so I could buy a reliable battery made in **JAPAN**, YUASA YTZ14S installed sideways in my oil tank. Last one worked for 10 years! I also run a DYNA 3 Ohm Coil with my Quikstart 2000.

[clunker1]

I first had the issue with quick start installed and correct gap. Changed to points and it still started and ran short time before missing and back firing. Changed coil, wires, checked plugs, hot wired the primary, checked the pushrods, etc. Now it starts up missing and backfiring. I have never experienced symptoms like this. Thought it had to be electrical or ignition. Checked timing. If timing is right,, then valve timing has not Changed. Never had a fuel problem act like this.
FRUSTRATED!

[59Panman]

Did you try the lighting position on your ignition switch and go for a ride?

[Hubbard]

Try this, run a wire from the hot side of the battery to the coil and on the other side of coil another straight to the points,make a ground wire from the dist/timer base to the neg. side of the batt. This will eliminate ALL possible wiring issues. I had a Pan that wasn't grounding at the timer and acted like this. I have also had the same symptoms from an exhaust valve that was fit just a little tite in the guide and once hot got "lazy" and wouldn't close all the way. Just ideas,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

[RooDog]

Try this, run a wire from the hot side of the battery to the coil and on the other side of coil another straight to the points,make a ground wire from the dist/timer base to the neg. side of the batt. This will eliminate ALL possible wiring issues. I had a Pan that wasn't grounding at the timer and acted like this. I have also had the same symptoms from an exhaust valve that was fit just a little tite in the guide and once hot got "lazy" and wouldn't close all the way. Just ideas,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

This is the most reliable way to eliminate almost all variables. It's so simple and basic that needn't to have been mentioned, but now I'm glad it has been. The classic "elephant in the room" thing.....

[clunker1]

Hubbard,
Intermittent grounding would explain a lot. I do not have a twist grip connected to the distributor as I advance by hand. The distributor top is a sliding fit ground and being, has a bit of play. I recall in the quick start instructions something about a good ground. How did you correct the grounding issue? I could add a flexible external ground wire. Gonna check this thought first thing this morning.
Thanks again to all.

[Lowbikemike]

I agree with electrical issue, ensure a good ground, but also follow his advice on feed wire to points. You have replace the electronic ignition with points, but I assume you are using the same feed wire to the points. Run a different wire temporarily as suggested. Then look at the feed wire where it goes into the timer, all that twisting sometimes creates a bare wire and short to ground.

[clunker1]

Lowbikemike,
Points system uses a different wire from pi kup to negative side of coil. 6 volt to positive side of coil is the same but I jumpered it from the battery to rule that out.

[RooDog]

The coils on Harley's dual fire system are not polarized. The points and power terminals are interchangeable, but the plugs both need to be grounded for the circuit to be complete.
Let's not waste time arguing that principle, and do some research. It is not the same way with either single fire, or normal automotive coils.
....RooDog....

[clunker1]

Roodog,
Don't think anyone disagrees with you on that. I was just trying to be clear that it was wired as indicated on the coil. I looked it up when you made this point on another post. The dual fire secondary is wired high tension terminal to high tension terminal, and primary coil primary terminaI to primary terminal - no junction between the two. Automotive coil secondary coil begins at junction of negative side of primary coil, makes its coil windings and ends at high tension output. That makes the automotive coil primary require a specific polarity. (For benefit of other readers Roodog).
I got the beast running great but ended up doing a lot of things at the same time before starting it up instead of ruling them out one at a time. Used everyone's comments here and other threads. I jumpered a ground from points; I pulled carb bowl to make sure float was not stuck; I eliminated the breaker at the battery; I put in another set of plugs. Which one did the trick? My guess is the ground on the distributor but who knows. As I don't have a metal wire twist grip advance connected, I will add a ground wire to the distributor base. The breaker was adding some resistance to the circuit which is not good with only 6 volts. I had autolite 4275 plugs but replaced them with the only compatible plug they had in my small town, autolite 85.
Thanks to all for all the help. This is a great forum with great people.