6volt coil primary resistance

[clunker1]

I went through the knowledge base and there seemed to be conflicting info that seems to be due to flip flopping between 6 volt requirements vs 12 volt. I know the quick start 2000 ignition recommends 1.5 ohm coil for 6 volt and 3 ohm coil for 12 volt. Typically one uses a higher ohm rating coil for points vs electronic.
Does anyone know the correct rating for a 6 volt coil using points?
My pan was running fine with quick start 2000 and 1.5 ohm coil. Then it started sounding like firing one cylinder most of the time and backfiring the other occasionally. I found a questionable connection on the coil primary but this did not correct the problem. Valves are functioning and timing is correct. I removed the electronic ignition and reinstalled points. Now I want to make sure I have the correct coil for points. If it should be 3 ohms for the primary resistance on 6 volt points ignition, can I install a resistor on the primary positive lead as they once did on old Plymouth cars?

[RooDog]

Have you contacted Quick Start with your issues?

EBeyond 2000, Inc.
6345 East Jordan Rd.
Ellsworth, MI 49729
Land Line: 231-588-2520
Email: ed@ebeyond2000.net

[clunker1]

Not yet. I wanted to rule everything else out first. Coil checks out with a meter and symptoms began during a startup so coil was not hot. Going to replace ignition wires as well.
I'm assuming there are two triggers in quick start to fire front and then rear cylinder.

[RooDog]

There is only one trigger, just as there is only one set of points (in most Panheads).

Looks like only one pickup, just like the point, one wasted spark....

Harley Quick Start 2000.jpg (16.19 KiB) Viewed 678 times

[Excalibur]

6v points = 1.5 ohm coil
12v points = 5.0 ohm coil

Depends what you mean by "trigger". There would have to be 2 magnets in the rotor which anyone could call the trigger... because it triggers the pickup.

Be sure to pop in new plugs to rule that out. Quit any fuel additives, some are just trouble.

Simple test. Pull one plug cap off and connect ohmmeter lead to cap. Pull other plug cap and connect other ohmmeter lead. Reading will approximate coil secondary winding resistance plus any HT lead resistance. No reading indicates open circuit.

Sounds like you are doing a thorough job of isolating the cause/s. Keep at it. You'll nail it sooner or later.

[Mongrel505558]

6v points = 1.5 ohm coil
12v points = 5.0 ohm coil

Depends what you mean by "trigger". There would have to be 2 magnets in the rotor which anyone could call the trigger... because it triggers the pickup.

Be sure to pop in new plugs to rule that out. Quit any fuel additives, some are just trouble.

Simple test. Pull one plug cap off and connect ohmmeter lead to cap. Pull other plug cap and connect other ohmmeter lead. Reading will approximate coil secondary winding resistance plus any HT lead resistance. No reading indicates open circuit.

Sounds like you are doing a thorough job of isolating the cause/s. Keep at it. You'll nail it sooner or later.

To keep it simple, call the spinning thing the target and the stationary thing the sensor block. Dual fire has two magnets in the target and one sensor in the sensor block. Single-fire has one magnet in the target and two sensors in the sensor block.

[clunker1]

I did not change plugs or coil. Put points back in and it fired right up. Still don't know for sure if it is the quick start. I guess I could power it and check if it is triggering with both magnets in rotor. Seems unlikely though. If the sensor ( I guess hall effect) triggers on one magnet, it should trigger on the other as well.
I did find that old automotive points ignition were designed to operate at about 4 amps. Less amps made for a weak spark and more amps burned points too fast. At 4 amps, coil primary resistance is 1.5 ohms for 6 volt and 3 ohms for 12 volt with some variation.
Thanks all for the help.

[clunker1]

Now I'm really P.O.d. started first kick, ran good for a couple minutes and began missing and backfiring. The coil was not even warm. Shut it down and got my gear out to test coil and by then, all was good. About 11k ohms across secondary and 1.5 ohms across primary.
Any thoughts? I'm still thinking coil now.

[NiteOwl]

Condenser. All my money on it!!

[Excalibur]

Backfire suggests points/condenser/low tension circuitry so I'd second NiteOwl's condenser tip especially if it's one of those cheap-no-brand jobs that comes in a points kit..
It used to be condensers could last decades. Indeed my 741 Indian has the same condenser fitted it came with in 1992.
Points don't clean themselves up simply by fitting a good condenser. In my opinion, the proper way is to clean and dress the points as part of any condenser replacement.
Good luck.

[pan50head]

If your coil came from VTwin, my guess is that you have a bad coil. It won't malfunction until current flows through it. I purchased too many VTwin coils. Always had to carry a spare to get me home. I now use a Dyna coil with EBeyond in a 12 volt system. This setup works like a million bucks. Jeff Goorman at Bulldog Brothers Garage, bulldogbrothersgarage@gmail.com is making stock-looking coils that appear to be very good. However, you should check to see if his coils are compatible with EBeyond.

[48Doc]

Ditto Jeff Gorman's coils. I've got five of them ( 12 volts ) and have about 25,000 trouble free miles so far with stock points.

[clunker1]

Yeah, ordered a new coil. Not much choice in 6 volt and not wanting to spend bucks to convert to 12v. I think I ruled out the condenser as it did the same thing with quick start 2000 electronic (no condenser).
I know when I bought this coil, I had less than 50 miles on it and found it dangling by the wires. The bracket and circumferential clamp on the can type coil was spot welded together and failed the welds. Had to repair weld the bracket. Sad quality.
I was was wondering if I could take a can apart and redo the windings in a quality way. My Dad used to wind transformers of all sizes and I could pick his brain on method and materials. The hardest part would likely be resealing.

[fenderguitarleo]

The cheap six volt OE looking coils all seem to have the same issue. I have repaired them for myself and friends, the internal windings that are usually horribly soldered to the side terminals fail from vibration. Take the top of the coil off and resolder them to the side terminals properly. Most of the aftermarket ones have 2 small screws to hold the top of the can together. Good luck.

Leo

[panhead_kicker]

clunker1,
Did you ohm out your plug wires separately?