Timing mark
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Timing mark
Would you say this is in the hole enough for timing the 1958
Having trouble with consistent starting hot and cold
Bubble tested again. Points right on .22. Test light out as breaker kisses full advance.
Linkert cleaned, new bushing in throttle shaft
Always brings me home when it runs
Suggestions?
Thank you
jerry
Having trouble with consistent starting hot and cold
Bubble tested again. Points right on .22. Test light out as breaker kisses full advance.
Linkert cleaned, new bushing in throttle shaft
Always brings me home when it runs
Suggestions?
Thank you
jerry
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Re: Timing mark
Yep, that's where I would set it....
My starting problems on my Project 1950 Panny, went away with a used Bendix carbby from eBay.... Manual or auto advance didn't make much difference, just easier to deal with the auto: Set it & forget it....
My starting problems on my Project 1950 Panny, went away with a used Bendix carbby from eBay.... Manual or auto advance didn't make much difference, just easier to deal with the auto: Set it & forget it....
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Re: Timing mark
The way I see it, kickstart timing should be satisfactory in the range of about 5° - 15°. Too much more and you begin risking kick back. Too much less and the engine becomes more & more reluctant to start. Shady, I've noticed twists the manual twistgrip to full retard for starting, some use about half way and others probably place it 'somewhere else'. It's likely their setting has come about because it works for them .
I also run auto-advance. I checked my full retard position at about 8°.I note HD spec 5°full retard for auto-advance timers. I'm 3°earlier and it's working fine at that.
This particular web page I had saved talks about hard hot starts Interesting read with all sorts of comments.
Hope this helps.
I also run auto-advance. I checked my full retard position at about 8°.I note HD spec 5°full retard for auto-advance timers. I'm 3°earlier and it's working fine at that.
This particular web page I had saved talks about hard hot starts Interesting read with all sorts of comments.
Hope this helps.
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Re: Timing mark
I had a manual advance timer when I first put my pan together, with a spring clamped to the frame to pull it to advanced as it vibrated after the motor started in the fully retarded position. No cable or twist grip. Had to reach down and turn it to retard the timing, which I only used for starting. Forgot once and the kicker launched me pretty good and nearly broke my foot. Been running auto advance pretty much since, although I love the simplicity of the manual timer.
Jim
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Re: Timing mark
I never even thought to look where the at rest timing was with my auto advancer, it just started and ran well so I let it go at that. That having been said. Once one has his engine dialed it it would probably be a good idea to note the initial, at rest, timing location. That would make future timing easier after a points adjustments as one would not need to force the advance, or even use a strobe light..... Since all dizzies are not created equal that initial timing point would need to be determined on an individual basis....Excalibur wrote: ↑Thu Aug 19, 2021 2:06 am The way I see it, kickstart timing should be satisfactory in the range of about 5° - 15°. Too much more and you begin risking kick back. Too much less and the engine becomes more & more reluctant to start. Shady, I've noticed twists the manual twistgrip to full retard for starting, some use about half way and others probably place it 'somewhere else'. It's likely their setting has come about because it works for them .
I also run auto-advance. I checked my full retard position at about 8°.I note HD spec 5°full retard for auto-advance timers. I'm 3°earlier and it's working fine at that.
This particular web page I had saved talks about hard hot starts Interesting read with all sorts of comments.
Hope this helps.
Anyway, sounds like it would work to me, maybe I'll try it on my '68 soon.....
....RooDog....
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Re: Timing mark
I checked mine because it would sometimes give a faint kickback, a tiny amount of a tickle if you will. I degreed the advance unit itself and found it was 13.5° not the 15° I expected. Worse though was the springs weren't tensioned enough. I wrapped the spring ends tighter around the posts to fix it.
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Re: Timing mark
I just use the next heavier set of springs. The advance comes on just a bit later, but the motor isn't racing when I come to a stop. With the lighter springs that came with the timer I needed to let out the clutch a bit to knock the revs back down. And I regularly lube the advance assembly. I have a Dyna S pickup on the plate instead of points, so it's very easy to get at the spring and weight assembly. Nothing to re-gap or recheck.Excalibur wrote: ↑Thu Aug 19, 2021 5:23 amI checked mine because it would sometimes give a faint kickback, a tiny amount of a tickle if you will. I degreed the advance unit itself and found it was 13.5° not the 15° I expected. Worse though was the springs weren't tensioned enough. I wrapped the spring ends tighter around the posts to fix it.
Jim
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Re: Timing mark
Agreed! Old wives tale: Condensers crap out when cold, Coils crap when hot.
Andygears
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Re: Timing mark
Have you pulled plugs and checked for nice hot spark? Correct plug type and gap confirmed?
When it won't start how bad is the problem? How many kicks
When it won't start how bad is the problem? How many kicks
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Re: Timing mark
+1 for Hubbard's condensor tip.
Steer clear of the no-name cheapies. Perhaps get a Blue Streak brand.
Jim, am with you on the heavier advance springs. I also run a Dyna S which doesn't have the extra drag of the points heel to help retard the timing advance weights. When I saw what the springs landed cost was, I decided to try the free solutions first. If tensioning the springs didn't work enough, I thought about reducing the weight of the weights themselves. Seems like it's a balance between weight, spring tension and centrifugal force so a tiny amount of weight reduction would make a noticeable difference. Anyway my spring re-tensioning worked. The weights snapped back noticeably better.
Jerry, if you want to verify your kickstart timing, put the TDC mark hard over to the right of the window, perhaps half obscured. This will be about 5° BTDC (early) . Test with your little timing light and see what you got.
Steer clear of the no-name cheapies. Perhaps get a Blue Streak brand.
Jim, am with you on the heavier advance springs. I also run a Dyna S which doesn't have the extra drag of the points heel to help retard the timing advance weights. When I saw what the springs landed cost was, I decided to try the free solutions first. If tensioning the springs didn't work enough, I thought about reducing the weight of the weights themselves. Seems like it's a balance between weight, spring tension and centrifugal force so a tiny amount of weight reduction would make a noticeable difference. Anyway my spring re-tensioning worked. The weights snapped back noticeably better.
Jerry, if you want to verify your kickstart timing, put the TDC mark hard over to the right of the window, perhaps half obscured. This will be about 5° BTDC (early) . Test with your little timing light and see what you got.
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Re: Timing mark
I just use the next heavier set of springs.
Jim
[/quote]
Where can someone find heavier springs?
Jim
[/quote]
Where can someone find heavier springs?
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Re: Timing mark
Tedd's V-Twin has em listed, all are in stock....
Stock Black: 13-0121.
Heavy Silver: 13-9246.
Severe Gold: 13-9247
Stock Black: 13-0121.
Heavy Silver: 13-9246.
Severe Gold: 13-9247