Timing mark question

[Mongrel505558]

This is my solution to all the various drawbacks of using timing lights. It won't work on stockers, but its great for open belt. The marks were set up using an indicator for TDC and checked with a degree wheel for correct advance. As an added benefit it also has a seal in it for the sprocket shaft to help with the tiny and not very effective aftermarket seal.
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Where did you get that? Did you make it? That would work well for my bike. More accurate than my painted lines, although my bike seems to be very forgiving of the timing setting. It starts easily and makes good power, and I generally static time it anyway with an digital volt-ohm meter that has the conductivity beep feature.

[RooDog]

.... just have a buddy lean the bike over to the right and hold the engine speed up a bit to reach full advance. Don't need a glass plug...

That's some funny shit. First one has to have a buddy, and all mine have died off, or are too stove up to be much help. If one has to depend on other people, often nothing will get done.

[bobberguy]

I have been an aircraft mechanic (A&P) for over 50 years and static timing is the only way to time them with two magnetos. Works good enough, so that's the way my Pan is done. Simple, no messy oil in the face or dropping the bike leaning it over too far (that never happens, right?). Whatever works for you is fine.

[Mongrel505558]

.... just have a buddy lean the bike over to the right and hold the engine speed up a bit to reach full advance. Don't need a glass plug...

That's some funny shit. First one has to have a buddy, and all mine have died off, or are too stove up to be much help. If one has to depend on other people, often nothing will get done.

True statement. I've learned to improvise to make two-person jobs into one-person jobs for that reason. I'd give you a hand if I didn't live almost a thousand miles away from you.

[RooDog]

Back at you, Jim, and probably a down a few beers too....
....RD....

[flat38]

Where did you get that? Did you make it? That would work well for my bike. More accurate than my painted lines, although my bike seems to be very forgiving of the timing setting. It starts easily and makes good power, and I generally static time it anyway with an digital volt-ohm meter that has the conductivity beep feature.

I made it. I did leave out one critical requirement. I have a 5 in 4 with the longer mainshaft for timken bearing motors. The belt pulley is on an adapter to space it out to line up with the trans. That leaves enough room for the spacer with the timing marks.

[Mongrel505558]

Where did you get that? Did you make it? That would work well for my bike. More accurate than my painted lines, although my bike seems to be very forgiving of the timing setting. It starts easily and makes good power, and I generally static time it anyway with an digital volt-ohm meter that has the conductivity beep feature.

I made it. I did leave out one critical requirement. I have a 5 in 4 with the longer mainshaft for timken bearing motors. The belt pulley is on an adapter to space it out to line up with the trans. That leaves enough room for the spacer with the timing marks.

I have a similar situation. When I built my pan motor I already had a transmission from a 76 FX, so I built the wheels with a cone shovel sprocket shaft to line up with the gearbox mainshaft. With my STD pan cases that gives me a gap between the left case and the belt pulley that I had to compensate for with an extra sprocket shaft spacer modified on a lathe to the right width.