New Member, First Pan (Hope Choppers are OK...)

[JLeather]

Nice scooter! first and foremost a FACTORY manual, use a haynes to wipe your ass while reading the real one. Mousetraps are perfect if set by the book and they must be in line and have no binding anywhere. Ten bux sez the back wheel will need to be serviced with new rollers and grease. See the manual. Check to make sure the rivets in the sprocket are tight, if not let us know. STAY AWAY FROM TEDDS V-TWIN! There are plenty of good used oem parts around and reliable sources for other things. Ask here for help when needed. Panheads are rather picky about who they will get close too. If you're just a poser or not serious, forget it. Pour a 5 gallon bucket of love on it and you'll have a friend for life.

What year manual should I get to cover the '60 engine and the mechanical rear brake? Or do later factory manuals cover earlier years as well? I'm not sure when the rear brakes changed to juice drums. The clutch is kinda notchy feeling. I had to use the clutch and 1st gear to unload the bike off the trailer since it doesn't have a front brake, and the clutch was pretty stiff and sluggish to release.

It's funny, I had a longer girder by this same company (CCW) on a Honda-powered chopper 8 or 10 years ago. That one was 18"-over and this one is more like 12-14" over. I'll definitely be addressing the front brake situation before putting many miles on it. I'm a 2-brakes kind of guy.

CIMG1395.JPG (268.84 KiB) Viewed 663 times

[Hubbard]

59-69 has your motor and rear hub in it,the brake is pretty simple. The nut at the top of the backing plate adjusts the shoes. Loosen it and while pushing on the pedal tighten back up.that centers the shoes. Now adjust the Clovis on the bottom to get the pedal you want. The manual will walk ya thru the trap. Once it’s right 2 fingers at the most. I put one on my super glide and my 10 yr.old niece can pull it.

[awander]

a 2-finger rear brake?

EDIT: Oh, I get it:

"The manual will walk ya thru the (mouse)trap."

[Hubbard]

Yea, sorry, if you have the oem brake shoes with rivets and they're wore out, don't replace 'em, reline 'em. Aftermarket shoes are junk. Mcmaster carr has the lining in 1 foot increments and if you don't have access to the tools I'll do 'em for nothin if you pay shippin and buy the lining.I've got lots of rivets. When you start foolin with the mouse trap be careful once you take the rod off that goes to the tranny. You will find out why it's called a mouse trap.Once you get the spring off make sure it swivels back and forth real easy. Then take a straight edge and make sure the place where that long rod gos is in line with the arm on the tranny. No binding anywhere.Nothin twisted or bent. The whole idea of that thing is for the spring to help pull in the clutch. The lever on the bars is just helpin the spring along.

[CC Rider]

Welcome to the site and very cool Pan!
BTW I'm still trying to dial in my mousetrap adjustment!

[JLeather]

Are the front and rear star hubs any different? The bike came with an extra complete rear wheel assembly (manual drum), and I want to lace it to the front rim that's already on the bike (1.85"-21 currently laced to a '84-'99 Evo hub). It would look a lot better than the Evo hub currently on the bike.

[awander]

Front and rear wheels, from the factory, are completely identical.

That's how you can rotate the tires as specified in the manual.

[JLeather]

Awesome. I think the extra wheel is OG Harley. I'll pull it apart and see what shape the hub is in. Where's the best place to get a rebuild kit?

[Raytag]

That 750 is one cool bike. Holy shit.
Or is it an 500/550? Always have trouble to distinguish the valve covers. Never mind.
This bike is great

ray

[JLeather]

Ray, that's a CB750. My first chop was a CB750, and I've never been without at least one in the shop since. That one is gone unfortunately, but I've still got this one:

IMG_20180620_200131501.jpg (443.9 KiB) Viewed 529 times

Built it about 8 years ago, with a couple updates here and there since.

Here's the extra wheel I got.

IMG_20201216_160451235.jpg (467.61 KiB) Viewed 529 times

I'm currently snowed-in away from my "good" tools including a 7/16" allen wrench I need to get the brake off. Assuming the internals are in good shape and I have enough room to get a caliper mounted this would probably look the best on the front of the bike.

I've also got this old Triumph front wheel. I like the look, but thanks to the extreme rake I can't get it rotated around level. The brake arm hits the girder leg.

IMG_20201215_201543810.jpg (339.62 KiB) Viewed 529 times

[JLeather]

How do I figure out what speedometer ratio I need? I wanna add a mini speedo. Also I think the PO said he changed the output sprocket for a better ratio (bigger I believe). Any way to compensate for that with the speedo?

[RUBONE]

Any way to compensate for that with the speedo?

Run it off the front wheel, gearing doesn't affect it.

[JLeather]

I don't think I'm going to have room for a wheel speedo drive, but I'll try. If I was going to get one to run off the trans should I get a 1:1 or a 2:1 (ignoring the gearing change for now)?

[RooDog]

I ran a 24/48 rear sprocket setup, and just re-numbered the speedo's face. But who really cares if it's accurate, after all speed limits are only suggestions anyway...
....RooDog....

1968 Electraluxe Speedo.jpg (105.78 KiB) Viewed 473 times

[Andygears]

From the knowledge base:

Pull the driven gear (in trans on speedo cable) and count the teeth.
11t use a 48-61 speedo.
13t use a 62-65 speedo.
Jerry

48-61 speedo drive=7t, driven = 11t 2000 rev/mile
62-65 speedo drive=4t, driven = 13t 1000 rev/mile

It should be a 2-1 Speedo needed but it could have been changed, pulling the gear is easy and is the best way to confirm.

Andygears