valve seals

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StueyC
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valve seals

#1

Post by StueyC »

I am trying to reassemble my cylinder heads but having problems with the valve seals. I am using Sifton Teflon style seals VT part number 14-0259. The valves stems are a very tight fit in the seal and when I attempt to feed the stem through the end breaks away from the seal. These seals were the type fitted when I stripped the motor and the valves are are being reused (Rowe brand). I have some standard type seals on the shelf but these are loose on the valve guide which probably explains two centre punch marks on the outside of each guide?

Any tips on fitting these type seals and getting the valves through them?

Thanks in advance.

StueyC
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Re: valve seals

#2

Post by NightShift »

Dear Stuey,

Sifton never made valve seals, its just a V-TWIN come-on.

If your seals look like galvanized metal with a black "plastic" lip rolled in to the top, they were probably really K-Line's for cars and those were really good.
They should come with a little hard plastic condom to put over the stem before you shove it in. And a plastic thingy to whack the seal on in the first place.

Sometimes the guide has to be sized on its OD for the seal first. And you cant pull the valve back out without tearing it up.

'Spectful,
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StueyC
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Re: valve seals

#3

Post by StueyC »

Thanks for the comments Spectful. The seals I'm trying to use are a white Teflon material with a steel band around the lower section which acts as a spring to help retain it and a coil type spring around the top seal area similar to a spring you would normaly see in most lip seals. I have tried seals similar to the ones you have pictured but these are far too loose. These "Sifton" ones are a tight fit on the guide which is great but seem far too tight on the valve stem. With plenty of oil and being as gentle as possible the ends still rip apart from the seal when I push the valve through. I have two seals left that I haven't damaged and my next thought is to heat them in boiling water and try fitting over the valve stem while the Telflon is a bit softer (hopefully). I was wondering if anyone else out there has used these seals before and encountered similar problems and how they overcame the problem.

StueyC
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Re: valve seals

#4

Post by NightShift »

Dear Stuey,

Are they like these? Crane was a great repackager too. Probly Felpro or something like that really.

But the condom is still in the box.

Your right the guide has to be a perfect squeeze-on fit. And you really dont want them coming off or they pump oil where you dont want it fast.
And watch your spring collars free travel, cause if it beats on the seal things come from together. And those teflon ones have more parts to fly around.

If your down to two, some folks say you only need them on the intakes anyway.

'Spectful,
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Last edited by NightShift on Mon Sep 14, 2009 4:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
StueyC
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Re: valve seals

#5

Post by StueyC »

Thanks again Specful or is it Nightshift? I did originally order the Crane seals that look the same but the supplier said they don't make them anymore but Sifton do. I'm sure I read somewhere that VT bought Sifton. Anyway it looks like I need the little "condom" thingy to stop the valve stem retainer groove grabbing the end of the seal and ripping it. Would have though the manufacturer should supply one with the seals but obviously not. I'm thinking a bit of electrical heat shrink on the stem might do the same but it will probably be a lot thicker than the "condom" shown in the picture. What's the theory with only the intakes needing the seal?

Anyone else have any thought on my seal delema?

StueyC
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Re: valve seals

#6

Post by rrhawg »

StueyC,
I had the same problem with these until someone told me what works for them. The trick is to put them on the guides first and then get the valves just flush with the top of the seal put both thumbs on the valve head and pop them the rest of the way thru the seal.
Rich
StueyC
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Re: valve seals

#7

Post by StueyC »

Hi Rich, I did as you said and the valve stem does pop through the seal but it also pops the end off the seals. I tried one with the seal fitted to the guide and then one without the seal fitted to the guide with the same disatrous result.

StueyC
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Re: valve seals

#8

Post by steinauge »

Try and find a set of K-line type seals to fit your guides.they are available for the 48-79 style guide and will cure your problem. N.S the idea behind no EXH seals is,as I understand it to allow a little oil to get to the exh guide\stem.Since oil down the exh guide doesnt go into the combustion chamber I reckon it is not supposed to make the engine smoke.
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Re: valve seals

#9

Post by rrhawg »

StueyC wrote:Hi Rich, I did as you said and the valve stem does pop through the seal but it also pops the end off the seals. I tried one with the seal fitted to the guide and then one without the seal fitted to the guide with the same disatrous result.

StueyC
Hi StueyC,
This method usually works for me without the plastic sleeve. Maybe you have a sharp edge at the bottom of the keeper groove that can be removed with a small file.
Rich
StueyC
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Re: valve seals

#10

Post by StueyC »

Can anyone tell me the standard diameter of the guide where the seal fits. I mentioned earlier that standard type seals are a loose fit on my guides and the Crane/Sifton type seals fit good. In the catalogues it mentions the guides may have to be machined to suit the Crane seals, does this relate to the diameter or height of the guide? Anyone know what diameter the guide should be to suit the Crane/Sifton seals?

Stuey.
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Re: valve seals

#11

Post by Bosheff »

A piece of Scotch tape wrapped around the top of the valve should keep ya from chewin' up the seal, provided ya got the right seal. Go with the K-Line seals if you can git yer hands on em....bosheff
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