Fuel Shutoff ALignment Tool
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Fuel Shutoff ALignment Tool
Does anyone have one that I could borrow? I would pay for shipping booth ways, of course.
Andy
Andy
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Re: Fuel Shutoff ALignment Tool
Andy,,,
I got one when I done my WLA.....
Shipping to US and back to Germany.....hummm
PM me or email if you still need to use one
George
I got one when I done my WLA.....
Shipping to US and back to Germany.....hummm
PM me or email if you still need to use one
George
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Re: Fuel Shutoff ALignment Tool
I've got one, shoot me a PM with a shipping address.
-Kuda
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-Kuda
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Re: Fuel Shutoff ALignment Tool
Hi George, Kuda:
I appreciate the offers. I had a fella' on the AMCA board offer to send me an alignment tool yesterday, and I took him up on it.
(he's not in Europe, so it was an easy choice, George. No offense meant)
Andy
I appreciate the offers. I had a fella' on the AMCA board offer to send me an alignment tool yesterday, and I took him up on it.
(he's not in Europe, so it was an easy choice, George. No offense meant)
Andy
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Re: Fuel Shutoff ALignment Tool
Andy no offense taken.
(he's not in Europe, so it was an easy choice, George. No offense meant)
Andy
I figured that someone in the US would finally step up to the plate and offer assistance, but just in case no one did.... I would try and help.
George
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Re: Fuel Shutoff ALignment Tool
Andy,
Knucko at MagnetoZoo also in Europe is going to make some up. He says price will depend on the number of orders he receives but around $ 50.00 each. Shipping to US???
http://www.magnetozoo.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Knucko at MagnetoZoo also in Europe is going to make some up. He says price will depend on the number of orders he receives but around $ 50.00 each. Shipping to US???
http://www.magnetozoo.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: Fuel Shutoff ALignment Tool
I had a shut-off that was hard to turn, So I removed the 63 year old rod from the tank. Found a NOS seat for the tank in my stash. Used steel-wool too clean the area on seat and the last two inches of the rod and now it works as it should. The Steel-wool trick helped more than enything!!! The needle and seat in the carb. is the main reason for over flow? Is it not??
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Re: Fuel Shutoff ALignment Tool
Katto!katto wrote:The needle and seat in the carb. is the main reason for over flow? Is it not??
The carb floatvalve is a metering device for when the motor is running, and expected to operate "open". It can only be the cause of overflow when the petcock is open.
When the motor is not running, it is the petcock's duty to prevent slow seepage and overflow.
Back to the alignment tool, Folks,
it has a flaw in its design: metal must be bent past "straight" so that it can spring back to 'straight'.
The tool brings everything to 'straight', and then you are expected to beat it with a hammer, hopeing the metal will stay put!
....Cotten
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Re: Fuel Shutoff ALignment Tool
I agree with Cotten about the flaw in the tool design-but it is better than trying to use the shutoff rod to bend things into alignment!
I think my leak may be gone....
I think my leak may be gone....
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Re: Fuel Shutoff ALignment Tool
Well,even after alignment, my shutoff wasn't living up to it's name.
After sitting overnight, there would always be a puddle of gas on top of the gearcase.
I decided to try to make a new shutoff rod tip out of PEEK(boy, that stuff is expensive!)
I made the tip yesterday, installed it last night,and today-the gearcase has no gas puddle on it!
The procedure was pretty simple:
-I used a propane torch to remove the existing metal tip on the shutoff rod. On mine,it was brazed on, so required a good amount of heat to free it.
-There was a partial ring of braze left on the end of the rod, i carefully removed it with a medium-cut file.
-the axial hole in the shutoff rod was clean, but if it had had any braze remaining in it, I would have removed it with a drill or a reamer.
-I used a countersink on the end of the axial hole, to make a small radius on the inside. This was done because the lathe tool used to make the new tip has a radius,and would not cut the corner perfectly square.
-I turned the new tip out of PEEK,at about 400RPM on the lathe. I purposely left the small "stem" oversize,to make sure it would fit tightly into the shutoff rod. See dimensions in the file below: -I parted off the tip, and then reversed it in the lathe chuck, and slowly dressed the stem down in diameter, using a handheld file. I also put a slight bevel on the end, to make it easier to start it into the hole on the shutoff rod.
-Once i could get the rod started onto the tip,I removed it from the lathe chuck, set the rod on top of the tip,with the tip resting on the anvil of my vise,and seated the rod over the stem on the tip using a small brass hammer.
-I took a fine Crotex point, and filed it to a 45-degree angle, as well as turning the diameter down so it would enter the valve body. I then used this point to lightly dress the seat inside the valve body.
-Finally, I washed the grit off the valve body, and reassembled the whole setup.
I am really happy that the leaks appear to be gone!
Let me know if you need one of these PEEK shutoff rod tips.
Andy
After sitting overnight, there would always be a puddle of gas on top of the gearcase.
I decided to try to make a new shutoff rod tip out of PEEK(boy, that stuff is expensive!)
I made the tip yesterday, installed it last night,and today-the gearcase has no gas puddle on it!
The procedure was pretty simple:
-I used a propane torch to remove the existing metal tip on the shutoff rod. On mine,it was brazed on, so required a good amount of heat to free it.
-There was a partial ring of braze left on the end of the rod, i carefully removed it with a medium-cut file.
-the axial hole in the shutoff rod was clean, but if it had had any braze remaining in it, I would have removed it with a drill or a reamer.
-I used a countersink on the end of the axial hole, to make a small radius on the inside. This was done because the lathe tool used to make the new tip has a radius,and would not cut the corner perfectly square.
-I turned the new tip out of PEEK,at about 400RPM on the lathe. I purposely left the small "stem" oversize,to make sure it would fit tightly into the shutoff rod. See dimensions in the file below: -I parted off the tip, and then reversed it in the lathe chuck, and slowly dressed the stem down in diameter, using a handheld file. I also put a slight bevel on the end, to make it easier to start it into the hole on the shutoff rod.
-Once i could get the rod started onto the tip,I removed it from the lathe chuck, set the rod on top of the tip,with the tip resting on the anvil of my vise,and seated the rod over the stem on the tip using a small brass hammer.
-I took a fine Crotex point, and filed it to a 45-degree angle, as well as turning the diameter down so it would enter the valve body. I then used this point to lightly dress the seat inside the valve body.
-Finally, I washed the grit off the valve body, and reassembled the whole setup.
I am really happy that the leaks appear to be gone!
Let me know if you need one of these PEEK shutoff rod tips.
Andy
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Re: Fuel Shutoff ALignment Tool
Andy!
I back-burner'd my PEEK rod tip studies when I found that fuel can leak around a faulty bronze seat insert.
My approach, if ever time allows, will be to recondition the seats with a PEEK replacement insert, and only dress the steel rod of its wear.
...Cotten
I back-burner'd my PEEK rod tip studies when I found that fuel can leak around a faulty bronze seat insert.
My approach, if ever time allows, will be to recondition the seats with a PEEK replacement insert, and only dress the steel rod of its wear.
...Cotten
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Re: Fuel Shutoff ALignment Tool
Hi Cotten:
Yeah,i could see that happening,if something went wrong with the seal between the seat and the valve body.
Do you know if the seat is just pressed in?
I guess I am lucky,my seat seal seems ok.
Yeah,i could see that happening,if something went wrong with the seal between the seat and the valve body.
Do you know if the seat is just pressed in?
I guess I am lucky,my seat seal seems ok.
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Re: Fuel Shutoff ALignment Tool
They are on the V twin parts. Not sure about the originals. I had to push mine back in and stake it to keep it from moving.[Do you know if the seat is just pressed in?
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Re: Fuel Shutoff ALignment Tool
Folks,
The spectre of leakage around an OEM seat is something I haven't rigged up a reliable testbench to diagnose: My embarrassing adventure with burnishers has gutted Liberty's R&D budget.
It might be rare maybe.
Even well-sealed seat inserts suffer from service the same as the rod, so a practical means of dressing the seat should accompany a soft rod tip such as PEEK, lest the blemishes continually wear into the rod tip.
The seat should be dressed, even when used with a dressed or NOS OEM tip.
There is a pressed-in collar above the seat that acts as a guide for the rod, and an appropriate cutter or stone can be piloted by it. It must be sacrificed if a new seat is to be installed, and a new collar installed as well.
....Cotten
The spectre of leakage around an OEM seat is something I haven't rigged up a reliable testbench to diagnose: My embarrassing adventure with burnishers has gutted Liberty's R&D budget.
It might be rare maybe.
Even well-sealed seat inserts suffer from service the same as the rod, so a practical means of dressing the seat should accompany a soft rod tip such as PEEK, lest the blemishes continually wear into the rod tip.
The seat should be dressed, even when used with a dressed or NOS OEM tip.
There is a pressed-in collar above the seat that acts as a guide for the rod, and an appropriate cutter or stone can be piloted by it. It must be sacrificed if a new seat is to be installed, and a new collar installed as well.
....Cotten
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Re: Fuel Shutoff ALignment Tool
Well,I'm hoping my smoothing of the seat with the Cratex point will be sufficient.
Still no leaks!....
It's strange to go into the shop and not smell gas.....
Still no leaks!....
It's strange to go into the shop and not smell gas.....