Fender Hole Size for Tail Light conduit & V-Twin Rear Fender

[VintageTwin]

From the pic of a '54 prototype on pg. 605 of Palmer's book, the hole in the side of the fender for the tail light conduit is about 1"- 1-1/4" (on-center), from the bottom of the top (right side) frame rail [directly, but a 1/2" lower] behind the rear corner of the oil tank).
Does anyone know the dia. of the hole? Looks like 9/16" or 5/8".

[steve_wood]

Do you mean the left side of the fender? That's all they show on page 605.

The hole on my 56 FLH is about 3/8". It looks the same as the 54 in the picture.

steve

[VintageTwin]

3/8 is good. That allows me to run woven conduit. containing two wires to the tail light, and keeps the hole tight to keep sling-mud from finding it's way on to the oil tank.
It looks like the hole on (left fender side) is even with the top edge of the tank in the at pic on pg. 605. On another page previous, there's the same (3/8) hole, but it looks to be an 1" lower than the top edge of the tank. Camera angle maybe. They all say "prototype though". My books not here.
And the hole is in the rounded part of the fender (but where rounded transitions to more flat), just before the valance ridge. The hole is not in the valance. The conduit (for me), starts out from the seat post terminal box as a three wire in one conduit, then the red wire branches-off to connect to the + post of the battery. The other two wires get another 12" piece of conduit and go along the inside top rail of the frame, then dip down and into the 3/8 fender hole. Having the hole just under the rail keeps the conduit hidden. I'm heat-shrink tubing the two wires from inside the fender, all the way to the tail light. The fender has clips inside, every 6 inches.

The yellow dot is where I plan on drilling a 3/8 hole. A grommet would be nice. Not OE style but the hole for a grommet would need to be 7/16 since the conduit is 3/8" o.d.

fendr2134bd5.jpg

Rear fender fit ok, except for the bottom fender mount hole (needs to be a slot) and I need to use an oil tank spacer to make up a gap. If I grind the fender hole downwards into a slot, then the 1/4" screw and spacer will be straight-on.

[FlatHeadSix]

VT,
The hole in the fender on the OEM production units was directly behind the frame tube when viewed horizontally. This would place it above the oil tank and it also kept the whole mess hidden behind the frame rail. The original fenders have a completely enclosed boxed channel which runs from below the hole all the way to the hinge to route the wires inside the fender instead of clips every 6". I remember all this because I tore my '49 apart when I ran the 2 extra wires for the turn signals. I can't begin to tell you how much fun it was trying to thread the 2 extra wires through the original conduit but I actually got it done somehow and I now have working signal lights on the back of the pan.

I'll try to take some pictures on Monday and post them.

mike

[VintageTwin]

It's not too late. I can move the hole up, to where it's behind the frame tube. Thanks

[john HD]

vt,

why does your fender mis match the lower mount so much?

are the fender stays too long? i am running an older repro fender and it fits very well.

john

[Panacea]

VT, looks like you're getting close to completion! Are you planning on useing a jockey shifter with the FX drum? Is that a ratchet top or a cow pie? Mike

[VintageTwin]

See below

[VintageTwin]

VT, looks like you're getting close to completion! Are you planning on using a jockey shifter with the FX drum?

Yep, the jockey "sport-shift" Big Twin.
There's nothing.....like riding an FX shifter cam, rocker clutch, Big Twin - if you have canyon roads nearby, and no comparison to any other Harley ride. No original parts were modified in the process. The horn got hidden for it's own good. The tool box won't fit my frame's bracket. That's a bummer. The tools kits are essential. Maybe I can make an off-set bracket for frame #1107.
Surfing is like "sport-shifting"in the way of "un-weighting" through the turns, but surfing takes a wetsuit, getting in your junk heap, driving down to the beach, parking, walking, and sitting out in the water for an hour or so, bobbing up and down, waiting for the same waves a jillion other people are waiting for, then walking back, getting in your jalopy and going home. Lots of work to get there and back. You feel good though - all deionized and energized. But, you get deionized and adrenal-amped digging through turns up the canyon in the early morning, with the thick aroma of sage, creosote and eucalyptus being driven into your skull at 55 mph... arr, arr, arr... morning sun in your face. Oh yeah.
Both sports make your head buzz.
"Sport-shifting" the above mentioned - configured Knuckle or Pan is like ocean surfing - but without the hassle or crowds or competition.

mockpan0135ps9.jpg

Looks a little more like a runner now. Seat, motor and trans. are H-D, the rest is V-Twin.

p.s. The (34006-74) FX shifter cam is $165.00 from http://nosparts.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; when they're gone there won't be any more made.

[VintageTwin]

why does your fender mis match the lower mount so much?

It fits without a "spacer". I thought it didn't, then I pulled the wheel and tightened all the bolts to the braces, "C" clamps and battery support plate. With everything tightened, the bottom mount hole in the fender to the (transmission area) plate hole was off-alignment about 3/16 of an inch. So with the fender in place I used a cone grinding stone and hogged it out a little until the slotted oval head screw would go through, and then drew the fender up to the transmission bracket. The fender now fits perfect. Drawing the fender up to that bottom bracket made the too-wide valances contract away from touching the chain guard on the left, and tool kit mount bracket on the right.
Synopsis: V-Twin makes a good '47-54 rear fender.

fendr185rd2.jpg

[VintageTwin]

The hole on my 56 FLH is about 3/8". It looks the same as the '54 in the picture on pg. 605 in Palmer's book. - steve

Does anyone have a direct-line-of-view pic of an OEM tail light wire going into the 3/8 hole Is it sheathed in asphalt-woven conduit Or, is it vinyl sleeved? Or, just two wires going into a grommet-less fender hole
I'm planning on heat-shrink tubing the taillight wires, from inside the lamp fixture, all the way to where the (red & green) wires branch off to #39 & #40 terminals. Then, I'm going back and sheathing the already heat-wrapped wires, with the short piece of (#J) woven conduit, from just inside the 3/8 hole (top of fender), to where the wires branch off for the #39 & #40 terminals in the terminal box.
This way the wires will be rain and mud protected inside the fender well, but appear to be woven-sheathed entirely.

r311fndr3.jpg

Thanks to FlthdSix for the hole placement suggestion. Here's high-side of a straight-on (or else it would be hidden).

r310fndr2.jpg

r312fndr4.jpg

The hole if drilled, is going to be real close to an edge of an inside conduit raceway tube. This looks good but I need to remove the wheel and see what's up inside of the well with the clip positioning. Foredom grinding material away for wire entry clearance would be one way.
I'll start another topic on Repop> Anatomy of the 1949-57 Rear Fender, where I can share the facts about fit and function. This is a very good reproduction fender.

Looking at the pic on pg. 605 in the Palmer book, the wire hole appears to be more in this position. I'm considering either location once I remove the wheel.

Fender comes off tomorrow - I'm on a wrenching-roll.