If the stud comes off from a cold weld and you re-weld another stud in the same place,
or you spot-weld another stud 1/2" away from the one you just made, does it weaken the metal?
I'm going to ask the Eastwood
Shop Talk site and get their take on it and post their response here.
I think their info source is an engineer - who's always in the background with a quick, easy to understand answer, about the mechanics of any of the products they sell.
http://forum.eastwoodco.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; >
Product Reviews >
#34041 Economy Dent Puller & Welded Stud Puller #31014
estwoodx12114kh9.jpg
estwoodx10112gf1.jpg
estwoodx11113eb7.jpg
With the electrode pushed in (pin will easily fall out), put the stud head directly on the lowest point of the dent. Pull the trigger for no more than 1-second.
estwoodx18110pi8.jpg
I used this spot puller for all the dents. Very powerful and versatile.
estwoodx34103gp1.jpg
On long dents, you can weld pins close together as long as the
cage will allow the outside pin to thread through. This allows pulling from one area and then pulling from the other. Note: The rear stud head is not deeply buried in the metal. This will likely pop-off on a pull, so
pull fast and sure, and if it's strong enough to pull the dent and pops-off, then you won't have a hardened stud to grind-off. [Note: On unseen, interior rusted metal you might make a pinhole on even a shallow-weld, when you rock the rounded head off the tank surface.]
estwoodx27107tg5.jpg
The pins, if stretched a lot when pulling a dent, can sometimes have the stud head snapped-off without leaving the head. If the head doesn't look deeply buried in the metal, use the technique above and rock the head off.
estwoodx24104ps0.jpg
Grinding the heads off of every stud is not easy. It's hard not to just remove the head (with an 80 grit disc) and not hit the tank surface, especially if your pull didn't make the tanks surface round like original. If a dip remains, then it's extremely difficult to angle the edge of that 10,000 rpm wheel and not have it veer off to the tank metal. Ryder suggested using a flap wheel.
estwoodx32101tn3.jpg
The original curve is back - I'll grind and Bondo the rest.
With this stud welding, I've save the worst for last - now more comfortable with the operation of the tool.
estwoody2117lm8.jpg
I used 99 of 100 stud pins on this set of tanks. Once you get started you can't quit. Grind the stud heads down with an 80 grit disc and a flap wheel (great abrasion control) to finish off the rest.
Snapping off the whole head of the stud on a shallow-weld caused two holes. This tank lay on it's name side, open, for a long time in southern weather. [A mud dauber's nest rolled out of the fill neck after the first stud weld.]
estwoody1116xt1.jpg
The pin holes are near the Harley script due in part to electrolysis transfer of ions. I'm taking it to my local welder and see if he can puddle some MiG welds. (yea, I know, the screws should be flat head countersunk. These are '59-61 round-head, countersunk, Phillips screws.) Tank emblem is genuine Harley-Davidson® China repop (chrome).
[Note: The emblems and lower underline bar are made straight. They must be curved to fit the tank, by hand. Use the repop mounting strip attached with screws before you bend them or you'll kink the emblem at the mount holes.]
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
