'49-84 "Fitz-All" Front Fender Nov. 23, 06

[VintageTwin]

The (50-0137) from V-Twin w/ trim holes is a good fender. The holes match up perfectly with '59-66 OEM trim. There's an extra tab tacked to the left bracket. Don't know what that's for, but I can grind it off.

[VintageTwin]

There's only two trim T-bolts per kit. Each strip needs three bolts. Bolt on left is for the front and middle holes. Bolt on right is for the rear section of the strip. If I had a front T-bolt installed it would pull the tip and strip together. Still the fender needs some metal bumping to create a stress-free fit.

[VintageTwin]

After the front fender was detailed for fit, there was a leak at the bottom of one of my V-Twin fork sliders. I fixed it with mbskeams help. He used a slightly different but effective method. I used extra paper damper washers to build up height from a cut-too-low slider floor. It's all covered in Vol. 2.

[mbskeam]

hello
3 things

1st: check to see that the damper stud shoulder does not stick out farther than the botom of the slider . you know where the nut goes onto the damper . if it sticks out farther than the counter bored area. it will not tighten the paper gaskets up tight to the bott of the slider. this will make leak.

2nd: a small dab of atv on paper gakets will help stop leaks. just a thin coat. and do the inside of the damper tube lower bushing and damper tube.there is a gasket in there also.

3rd: find some copper crush washers to put on the stud to make the seal on the outside and then put a flat washer and a nylock nut on stud.

these things will help keep the forks from leaking out the bottom.
Ask me how I know
mbskeam

[mbskeam]

that post is from me I did not want to retype it all
mbskeam

[mbskeam]

hello,
yes I found the leak after I put oil in the forks, after getting it back together it was just a oil weap that drove me nuts for a few months.I then got some crush washers that my father had in the shop and put them on the stud this did help some, I then put it together with out rtv. it still weeped, so for a few years I road it this way.when I repainted my tanks and fenders I also changed the neck bearings.This is when I took apart the tubes and put in new gaskests and put a light coat of rtv on them and in the cup and damper. I put a gasket in there also.I then cut the damper shoulders off by about .025. my lowers are repops and the dampers are HD. so that is what I think the problem was. I have not had any leaks since then, this was almost 4 years ago.The crush washers are a mercedes benz part. I think that you can find them at McMasterCar, but I dont kow if that you need them as the tube sticking out was mostly the problem.
mbskeam

[VintageTwin]

[Smac]

What is the proper length for hydraglide spring and tubes? How much spring should stick out the top of the tubes before installing the caps?

My '63 has 20.5" tubes with 20.25" springs. When assembled, the springs must me compressed almost 2" inches to get the caps on which seems odd to me. Without adding oil, it takes considerable effort to compress this setup and it "clunks" something awful on the bumps.

I have a set of dual disk legs here that have 22" tubes with the same 20.25" springs. Caps go on with little effort as they can be started with very minimal compression. Force necessary to compress these legs seems more reasonable. Again this is before adding oil.

Both sets of legs had missing baffles and lower bushings for some reason. (dual disk legs have the 49-77 internals)

[VintageTwin]

Both sets of legs had missing baffles and lower bushings for some reason. (dual disk legs have the 49-77 internals)

I'm still working on my "clunk" problem. The forks in the '58-68 Harley Parts Book don't have the spacer. Your spring height sounds about right. The forks I got as a set from V-Twin didn't have baffles in the tube plugs. I have the baffles now and will see if installing them stops the clunk. JohnHD says he thinks the problem is because the damper assembly fits too lose within the fork tube. Anyway we're still trying to figure it out.