Removing rust from tanks

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PanRider
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Removing rust from tanks

#1

Post by PanRider »

Went on the K-Base and read a no. of posts about this. Also been on Youtube. It seems using cider vinegar does a good job. So my questions are - 1. Do I pour in the cider vinegar with some nuts and bolts and shake for awhile and then let it set overnight or remove the vinegar right away? 2. After this process is done do I flush it out with distilled water then take an air hose and dry it? And 3. once it is cleaned and dried, can I use Marvel Mystery Oil or WD 40 to coat the inside since I won't be filling up the tanks for awhile and I don't want them to rust again?
Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Re: Removing rust from tanks

#2

Post by docmel »

Once a tank gets rusty inside, I would can it. Nothing really gets all the fine rust out, and neither will fuel filters. And tank liners, suck. Unless you have a set of rare OEM tanks you want to salvage, I would get a new set. They dont cost all that much
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Re: Removing rust from tanks

#3

Post by Casaba »

Most of the bikes on this site are worth saving the tanks... I'm sorry but I disagree on giving advice to just trash a set of tanks!
PanRider
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Re: Removing rust from tanks

#4

Post by PanRider »

Tanks aren't all that bad. The bike came with fatbobs mounted and stock tanks along with other parts. I want to put the stock tanks back on and plan on getting them painted this spring. So thought I would be proactive and clean them up. They aren't like solid rust. In fact they are in pretty good shape. I just want to get rid of any crud in there and check them for leaks. The internal fuel supply valve was also broken but amongst all the other parts was a new one. I should say old new part. Thought I would try it out first to see if it works. But, according to the manual I need a special tool to align it. Is there a way to align it correctly without the "special tool" and without it leaking? I read in Palmer's about fitting one and it sounds like a touchy job. Any advice? Also, to reiterate, once tanks are clean, would Marvel Mystery Oil or WD 40 keep them from rusting again?
Thanks for the comments.
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Re: Removing rust from tanks

#5

Post by PanRider »

Tanks aren't all that bad. The bike came with fatbobs mounted and stock tanks along with other parts. I want to put the stock tanks back on and plan on getting them painted this spring. So thought I would be proactive and clean them up. They aren't like solid rust. In fact they are in pretty good shape. I just want to get rid of any crud in there and check them for leaks. The internal fuel supply valve was also broken but amongst all the other parts was a new one. I should say old new part. Thought I would try it out first to see if it works. But, according to the manual I need a special tool to align it. Is there a way to align it correctly without the "special tool" and without it leaking? I read in Palmer's about fitting one and it sounds like a touchy job. Any advice? Also, to reiterate, once tanks are clean, would Marvel Mystery Oil or WD 40 keep them from rusting again?

Also, can anyone direct me to a diagram of the internal fuel supply valve and how it goes into the tank? It's obvious where it goes but there are a no. of parts to it. I don't see a diagram in the manual or in Palmer's. Couldn't find one here either.

Thanks for the comments.
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Re: Removing rust from tanks

#6

Post by Gotnoclass »

Casaba wrote:Most of the bikes on this site are worth saving the tanks... I'm sorry but I disagree on giving advice to just trash a set of tanks!
I'm with you. That is some bad advice right there, as this is how perfectly good parts get ruined or trashed because of laziness and ignorance.
Many methods are out there to remove rust.
One I have used successfully, is 2 packets of 1/8" BB gun balls inside the tank, seal all openings VERY TIGHT and wrap the tank in shrink wrap, then a whole bunch of bubble wrap. Make it look like the Michelin baby. Stick the tank (one half at a time) in your clothing drier, fill and voids with whatever pillows you can get your hands on to take on extra space, and run it for 2 hours on a COLD, HEATLESS cycle.
Your wife is going to hate it, but it sure does the work.
Watch out for the rust dust, as it will go everywhere.
When you're done, I would wash it with a rust conversion fluid like OSPHO.
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Re: Removing rust from tanks

#7

Post by Tintop48 »

Pour the vinegar in the tanks and then its up to you how long you let it sit. Had a triumph tank with quite a lot of rust in it and I let it sir for 3 days and it did a very good job of cleaning out the rust
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Re: Removing rust from tanks

#8

Post by PanRider »

Thanks for the posts. Hope to get the tanks cleaned out with cider vinegar this weekend.
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Re: Removing rust from tanks

#9

Post by Huck »

Google "Metal Rescue" easy 2 find.
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Re: Removing rust from tanks

#10

Post by 58bob »

PanRider,
Phosphoric acid is the active ingredient in 'ruster converter' that reacts with iron oxide (rust) to form an inert layer called ferric phosphate. This is in the Por15 tank lining kit thats US made. Dont know how it reacts with some of your fuels that I've heard are quite reactive, but I've had very good results with it., hope this helps.
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Re: Removing rust from tanks

#11

Post by PanRider »

I appreciate the posts. Looked up Metal Rescue. Where would one find it? Auto Zone or NAPA?

I asked in an earlier post, will Marvel Mystery Oil or WD 40 work to coat the tanks once they are cleaned out and keep them from rusting again until I get the bike up next summer?
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Re: Removing rust from tanks

#12

Post by Panhead Ed »

Some truck collision &radiator shops clean fuel tanks useing "electrolosis" wont even fk up your paint . worth checking out they can probly seal it too.
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Re: Removing rust from tanks

#13

Post by 58flh »

Another EASY way to remove rust!---I to use BBs,there good for this method.I put a 100-BBs in each tank Plug the lines to hold liquid.In a post above someone mentioned VINIGAR!.Put a small bottle in each tank,Yes the whole bottle.Then What I did is Removed the Rotisserie from my grill & made a stand to hold everything!.Plug it in-The speed is PERFECT-(SLOW)-& let the thing run all day & night!--Next morning Have a Look-see.Depending how severe It will be down to metal & EXPOSE any holes that need fixing.The olny time it takes 2-trys is if theres a Liner in the tanks.If you have been lined somewhere in the past do this/--Sharpen a coathanger to a point!--Then make breaches everywhere you can reach.BUY -(Aircraft-stripper)-blue can most good Auto & paint shops have it.Its $40 a gallon ,you will have plenty left over.pour in a QT. in each tank & Rotisserie it overnite.Next Morning pull the tanks & pour out into a STTEEL can.-(I forgot to say /do not get this shit on your hands,you will blister & Bleed!.After pouring look inside & see how much is left!--Usually its all out except for a patch here & there.Pour the BBs in along with a half vinigar/half-pint Aircraft stripper.Run the rotor another full day & it should be fully clean.Its always an X-tra PITA when a liner needs removing!.The best part is /its all Automatic & frees you up for further wrenching.This Method has worked for me since I was a young teenager.Driers spin faster but you have to keep setting it every hour if using the ol-Ladies.Absolutely no heat setting with this cocktail :mrgreen: -----Respectfully----Richie
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Re: Removing rust from tanks

#14

Post by docmel »

Typically I'm not one to react to faceless internet comments like, "Laziness and ignorance": But in this case, Ill stay the course to help the man that posted that he had rust in his tank and needs advice.

There are a ton of ways to remove rust and most of them work. But the real issue is how to keep the rust from recurring once it starts. Once rust gets ahold of the inside of a tank, (fine surface or pitted/flaking type rust), the rust will come back. Now before someone knee jerks, read on......

My experience with rusted gas tanks is pretty extensive. Classic cars, bikes, heck, even go carts..... When tanks start to rust inside, the rust particulate will eventually mix with the gas. And it will clog filters, go past filters, clog carbs, and eventually, wear engines. I have seen so many rusted tanks that were cleaned with almost every concoction, but the rust still comes back. And rust is oxidized metal particulate: And thats my point.

As far as the labor and success rate goes, it is very low when it comes to rust not coming back. And I'll state again, unless you have a set or NOS or rare original gas tanks, you might want to just get another replacement, vs. the high cost of labor (paid for or personal) just to have the rust to come back again (more on liners to come for the folks that are about to scream and explode with comments)

Many carbs I have seen on cars, bikes and military restorations have been practically ruined due to so called, "I removed the rust". They may have initially, but it will come back.

Coatings and liners: I have yet to see one that works, but I certianly haven't used all of them. I have seen some coatings and liners that actually seperated from the inside of the tank over time, and have clogged fuel lines and even petcocks as a result. I've seen rubber looking slag in fuel bowls that were caused by shedding liner. Most of these cases were folks that had rusted MC tanks, but wanted to keep their current paint job, something that I can understand: But the rust will come back and liners tend not to work over the long run

So let's go back to the original issue from the original poster: Removing rust from tanks: Yes, it can be done, many ways to do it, and I've used some of the techniques mentioned, with success: But thats not the end of the road: Its keeping it from coming back and ruining other parts of the equations

If you want a solid solution, and one that will last and work, and you are on a budget, you might consider a new tank, or a good used one at a swap meet. If you have a rare make tank that isn't available in repo, then you might want to try to salvage and coat the inside with a liner: And then only done by someone that does it for professionally and for a living

I'm big for reusing/restoring parts, and a huge swap meet fan. But I stay away from rusted tanks and trying to use or restore them. The aftermarket parts world has plenty of makes and models to choose from, and the costs are pretty darn low

My comments are based upon my personal experience, and what I have personally observed among the crowd of builders and restorers that I have worked with over the past 30 years

So it depends I guess on the individual: You want a short term solution that typically doesn't work and you might get damage as a result, or go for the long run solution?

Myself, I am not a taker when it comes to a restored/rebuilt $$ engine, and running rust or liner thru it because I took a cheap short cut on a rusted tank. I tried it before and it didn't work out: In the least, clogged filters, clogged and flooding carbs = high suck, extra labor and shell out more $$$ factor
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Re: Removing rust from tanks

#15

Post by 58flh »

Doceml----Your absolutly correct!--Now all of us have blasted a frame to bare metal.It olny takes 10-min for a Fine powdery rust to form.What I do is Rub down with prepsol/When I ran out of it Anything like WD-40 will coat & prevent RUST.This goes for Tanks As you have said!--If a cleaned bare-metal tank were to be left out for 8-hrs. Theres enuff rust there to Clog Carb. & Filter TWICE!.Im glad you mentioned this incase someone didnt know!--& I totaly am for Coat it RIGHT AWAY when its finished!---(Im glad you mentioned this!).Alot of us on here do this ALL the time ,so we know about it.BUT to a newbie It can really screw-up an otherwise good job.I guess you just get use to things & that RUST STOPPING is second nature.And very IMPORTANT to know!/About tank Liners The Early ones were good But as of the last 5yrs. I have heard of nothing that LASTS amongst the corosive additives in todays fuels.That should be an issue to work out I believe.But Im not a chemist to the point of breaking shit down to a molecular level.I can add that The old KREEM that I used in 1980 on my shorter tank / Has held-up so far to todays Fuels./But next years cocktail Who knows?????/Also they changed the KREEM formula in later yrs. & it does not work.----Respectfully----Richie
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